Highways and Byways in Sussex Part 44

Upon the sixth Earl of Dorset's monument in Withyham Church is inscribed Pope's epitaph, beginning:--

Dorset, the grace of Courts, the Muses pride, Patron of arts, and judge of nature dy'd!

The scourge of pride, though sanctify'd or great, Of fops in learning, and of knaves in state: Yet soft his nature, though severe his lay, His anger moral, and his wisdom gay.

The church is very prettily situated on a steep mound, at the western foot of which is a sheet of water; at the eastern foot, the village. So hidden by trees is it that approaching Withyham from Hartfield one is unconscious of its proximity. The glory of the church is the monument, in the Sackville Chapel, to Thomas Sackville, youngest son of the fifth Earl of Dorset. There is nothing among the many tombs which we have seen more interesting than this, although for charm it is not to be compared with, say, the Shurley monument at Isfield. The young man reclines on the tomb; at one side of him is the figure of his father, and at the other, of his mother, both life-like and life-size, dressed in their ordinary style. The att.i.tudes being extremely natural the total effect is curiously realistic. On the sides of the tomb, in bas-relief, are the figures of the six brothers and six sisters of the youth, some quite babies. The sculptor was Caius Cibber, Colley Cibber's father.

Other monuments are also to be seen in the Sackville Chapel, but that which I have described is the finest.

Had Withyham church not been destroyed by fire, in 1663, in a "tempest of thunder and lightning," it would now be second to none in Suss.e.x in interest and the richness of its tombs; for in that fire perished in the Sackville aisle, now no more, on the northern side, other and perhaps n.o.bler Sackville monuments. The vaults, where many Sackvilles lie, were not however injured. In the Sackville Chapel is a large window recording the genealogy of the family, which is now represented by Earl De la Warr, at the foot of which are the words in Latin, "The n.o.ble family of Sackville here awaits the Resurrection."

[Sidenote: JOHN WAYLETT, BELL-FOUNDER]

Withyham has three of the bells of John Waylett, an itinerant bell-founder at the beginning of the eighteenth century. His method was to call on the vicar and ask if anything were wanted; and if a bell was cracked, or if a new one was desired, he would dig a mould in a neighbouring field, build a fire, collect his metal and perform the task on the spot. Waylett's business might be called the higher tinkering.

Suss.e.x has some forty of his bells. He cast the Steyning peal in 1724, and earlier in the same year he had made a stay at Lewes, erecting a furnace there, as Benvenuto Cellini tells us he used to do, and remedying defective peals all around. Among others he recast the old treble and made a new treble for Mayfield. It seems to have been universally thirsty work: the churchwardens' papers contain an account for beer in connection with the enterprise:

[Sidenote: BEER]

_ s. d._ For beer to the ringers when the Bell founder was here 2 6 When the bell was weighed 3 6 When the bell was loaded 2 0 In carrying ye bell to Lewes and back again 1 10 0 When the bell was waid and hung up 3 0 For beer to the officers and several others a hanging up ye bell 18 0 In beer to the ringers when ye bell was hung 6 6

The Withyham churchwardens also expended 3_s._ 6_d._ on beer when Waylett came to spread thirst abroad. I find also among the entries from the parish account-book, which Mr. Sutton, the vicar, prints in his _Historical Notes on Withyham_, a very interesting and informing book, the following items:

1711. April ye 20, pd. to Goody Sweatman _s. d._ for Beere had at ye Books making 2 6

Aug. ye 19, pd. to Edward Groombridge for digging a grave and Ringing ye Nell for Goody Hammond 2 6

Aug. ye 26, pd. to Sweatman for beere at ye Writing of Boocks for ye window-tax 2 0

Aug. 15th, Pd. to Sweatman for beer at ye chusing of surveyor Decbr ye 26 5 0

1714. Pd. to good wife Sweatman for beer when ye bells were put to be cast 2 6

Buckhurst, one of the seats of Lord De la Warr, is a splendid domain, with the most perfect golf greens I ever saw, but no deer, all of them having been exiled a few years since. The previous home of the Sackvilles was Old Buckhurst in the valley to the west, of which only the husk now remains. One can see that the mansion was of enormous extent; and the walls were so strongly built that when an attempt was recently made to destroy and utilise a portion for road mending, the project had to be abandoned on account of the hardness of the mortar.

One beautiful tower (out of six) still stands. An underground pa.s.sage, which is said variously to lead to the large lake in Buckhurst Park, to the church, and to Bolebroke at Hartfield, has never been explored farther than the first door that blocks the way; nor have the seven cord of gold, rumoured to be buried near the house, come to light.

[Sidenote: OLD RURAL ARCHITECTURE]

[Sidenote: IN PRAISE OF "DUCKINGS"]

It was of Duckings, the beautiful timbered farmhouse of which Withyham is justly proud, that Jefferies thus wrote, in his essay on "Buckhurst Park": "Our modern architects try to make their rooms mathematically square, a series of brick boxes, one on the other like pigeon-holes in a bureau, with flat ceilings and right angles in the corners, and are said to go through a profound education before they can produce these wonderful specimens of art. If our old English folk could not get an arched roof, then they loved to have it pointed, with polished timber beams in which the eye rested as in looking upwards through a tree.

Their rooms they liked of many shapes, and not at right angles in the corners, nor all on the same dead level of flooring. You had to go up a step into one, and down a step into another, and along a winding pa.s.sage into a third, so that each part of the house had its individuality. To these houses life fitted itself and grew to them; they were not mere walls, but became part of existence. A man's house was not only his castle, a man's house was himself. He could not tear himself away from his house, it was like tearing up the shrieking mandrake by the root, almost death itself. Now we walk in and out of our brick boxes unconcerned whether we live in this villa or that, here or yonder. Dark beams inlaid in the walls support the gables; heavier timber, placed horizontally, forms, as it were, the foundation of the first floor. This horizontal beam has warped a little in the course of time, the alternate heat and cold of summers and winters that make centuries. Up to this beam the lower wall is built of brick set to curve of the timber, from which circ.u.mstance it would appear to be a modern insertion. The beam, we may be sure, was straight originally, and the bricks have been fitted to the curve which it subsequently took. Time, no doubt, ate away the lower work of wood, and necessitated the insertion of new materials. The slight curve of the great beam adds, I think, to the interest of the old place, for it is a curve that has grown and was not premeditated; it has grown like the bough of a tree, not from any set human design. This, too, is the character of the house.

It is not large, nor overburdened with gables, not ornamental, nor what is called striking, in any way, but simply an old English house, genuine and true. The warm sunlight falls on the old red tiles, the dark beams look the darker for the glow of light, the shapely cone of the hop-oast rises at the end; there are swallows and flowers, and ricks and horses, and so it is beautiful because it is natural and honest. It is the simplicity that makes it so touching, like the words of an old ballad.

Now at Mayfield there is a timber house which is something of a show place, and people go to see it, and which certainly has many more lines in its curves and woodwork, but yet did not appeal to me, because it seemed too purposely ornamental. A house designed to look well, even age has not taken from its artificiality. Neither is there any cone nor cart-horses about. Why, even a tall chanticleer makes a home look homely. I do like to see a tall proud chanticleer strutting in the yard and barely giving way as I advance, almost ready to do battle with a stranger like a mastiff. So I prefer the simple old home by Buckhurst Park."

[Sidenote: ASHDOWN FOREST]

The forest of which Ashdown Forest was a part extended once in unbroken sombre density from Kent to Hamps.h.i.+re, a distance of 120 miles. It was known to the Romans as Sylva Anderida, giving its name to Anderida (or Pevensey) on the edge of it; to the Saxons it was Andreaswald. Wolves, wild boar and deer then roamed its dark recesses. Our Ashdown Forest--all that now remains of this wild track--was for long a Royal hunting ground. Edward III. granted it to John of Gaunt, who, there's no doubt, often came hither for sport. It is supposed that he built a chapel near Nutley ("Chapel Wood" marks the site) where, on one occasion at least, John Wycliffe the reformer officiated. At Forest Row, as we have seen, the later lords who hunted here built their lodges and kept their retainers. There are no longer any deer in the Forest; the modern sportsman approaches it with a cleek where his forerunner carried a bow.

A hundred years ago, in the smuggling days, it was a very dangerous region.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Ashdown Forest, from East Grinstead._]

Hartfield, the village next to Withyham in the west, is uninteresting; but it has a graceful church, and at Bolebroke, once the home of the Dalyngruges, whom we met at Bodiam, and later of the Sackvilles, are the remains of a n.o.ble brick mansion. The towered gateway still stands, and it is not difficult to reconstruct in the mind's eye the house in its best period. Of old cottage architecture Hartfield also has a pretty example in Lych-Gate Cottage, by the churchyard. "Castle field," north of the village, probably marks the site of an ancient castle, or hunting lodge, of the Barons of Pevensey. That there was good hunting in these parts the name Hartfield itself goes to prove.

[Sidenote: OUR JOURNEY'S END]

Between Withyham and Hartfield in the north, and Crowborough Beacon and Wych Cross in the south, is some of the finest open country in Suss.e.x, where one may walk for hours and meet no human creature. Here are silent desolate woods--the Five Hundred Acre Wood, under Crowborough, chief of them--and vast wastes of undulating heath, rising here and there to great heights crowned with fir trees, as at Gill's Lap. A few enclosed estates interrupt the forest's open freedom, but nothing can tame it.

Sombre dark heather gives the prevailing note, but between Old Lodge and Pippinford Park I once came upon a green and luxuriant valley that would not have been out of place in Tyrol; while there is a field near Chuck Hatch where in April one may see more dancing daffodils than ever Wordsworth did.

And here we leave the county.

CHAPTER XLI

THE SUSs.e.x DIALECT

French words at Hastings and Rye--Saxon on the farms--Mr. W. D.

Parish's _Dictionary of the Suss.e.x Dialect_--The rules of the game--The raciest of the words--A Suss.e.x criticism of Disraeli--The gender of a Suss.e.x nose--A shepherd's adventures--Suss.e.x words in America--"The Song of Solomon" in the Suss.e.x vernacular.

The body of the Suss.e.x dialect is derived from the Saxon. Its accessories can be traced to the Celts, to the Norse--thus _rape_, a division of the county, is probably an adaptation of the Icelandic _hreppr_--and to the French, some hundreds of Huguenots having fled to our sh.o.r.es after the Edict of Nantes. The Hastings fishermen, for example, often say _boco_ for plenty, and _frap_ to strike; while in the Rye neighbourhood, where the Huguenots were strongest, such words as _dishabil_ meaning untidy, undressed, and _peter grievous_ (from _pet.i.t-grief_) meaning fretful, are still used.

But Saxon words are, of course, considerably more common. You meet them at every turn. A Suss.e.x auctioneer's list that lies before me--a catalogue of live and dead farming stock to be sold at a homestead under the South Downs--is full of them. So blunt and st.u.r.dy they are, these ancient primitive terms of the soil: "Lot 1. Pitch p.r.o.ng, two half-pitch p.r.o.ngs, two 4-speen spuds, and a road hoe. Lot 5. Five short p.r.o.ngs, flint spud, dung drag, two turnip pecks, and two shovels. Lot 9. Six hay rakes, two scythes and sneaths, cross-cut saw, and a sheep hook. Lot 39.

Corn chest, open tub, milking stool, and hog form. Lot 43. Bushel measure, shaul and strike. Lot 100. Rick borer. Lot 143. Eight knaves and seven felloes. Lot 148. Six dirt boards and pair of wood hames. Lot 152. Wheelwright's sampson. Lot 174. Set of thill harness. Lot 201.

Three plough bolts, three tween sticks. Lot 204. Sundry harness and whippances. Lot 208. Tickle plough. Lot 222. Iron turnwrist [p.r.o.nounced turn-riced] plough. Lot 242. 9-time scarifier. Lot 251. Clod crusher.

Lot 252. Hay tedder." From another catalogue more ram=alogues, these abrupt and active little words might be called, b.u.t.t at one. As "Lot 4.

Flint spud, two drain scoops, bull lead and five dibbles. Lot 10. Dung rake and dung devil. Lot 11. Four juts and a zinc skip." Farm labourers are men of little speech, and it is often needful that voices should carry far. Hence this crisp and forcible reticence. The vocabulary of the country-side undergoes few changes; and the noises to-day made by the ox-herd who urges his black and smoking team along the hill-side are precisely those that Piers Plowman himself would have used.

[Sidenote: SAXON PERSISTENT]

Another survival may be noticed in objurgation. A Suss.e.x man swearing by Job, as he often does, is not calling in the aid of the patient sufferer of Uz, but Jobe, the Anglo-Saxon Jupiter.

A few examples of Suss.e.x speech, mainly drawn from Mr. Parish's _Dictionary of the Suss.e.x Dialect_ will help to add the true flavour to these pages. Mr. Parish's little book is one of the best of its kind; that it is more than a contribution to etymology a very few quotations will show.

[Sidenote: THE SUSs.e.x RULES]

Mr. Parish lays down the following general principles of the Suss.e.x tongue:--

_a_ before double _d_ becomes _ar_; whereby ladder and adder are p.r.o.nounced larder and arder.

_a_ before double _l_ is p.r.o.nounced like _o_; fallow and tallow become foller and toller.

_a_ before _t_ is expanded into _ea_; rate, mate, plate, gate, are p.r.o.nounced re?t, me?t, ple?t, ge?t.