A Description of Modern Birmingham Part 16

In the year 1816, a seventh well made its appearance in Clemens-street, which bears the pompous t.i.tle of the imperial sulphuric medical font, and ladies' marble baths. There are here four baths, with a dressing-room to each, and also an elegant pump-room.

Lest seven wells and fifty baths should not be sufficient to accommodate the visitors at Leamington, preparations are making for the eighth well, near Ranelagh gardens, where the baths are intended to be more splendid than any of the former, and also the pump-room, under the t.i.tle of the Spa.

From the hour of seven to nine in the morning is the accustomed time to promenade and drink the water, though numbers defer it till after breakfast, and bathe in the evening before they retire to rest.

When the warm baths are not in use, they are invariably kept and shewn empty, being filled in presence of the visitor, or during the time he is preparing to use them; the process of filling not requiring more than three minutes. The cold baths are in general emptied and of course filled every day, or more frequently if required; but of late they are not much resorted to, the warm or tepid bath being preferred.

The prevailing opinion among medical men is, that the latter is by far the more efficacious in most disorders, and more conducive to health than the former; because, where a person continues immersed in saline water for some time, it enters into the pores of the skin, and by that means is more likely to be of benefit in cutaneous or other disorders for which it is usually recommended.

The houses in Union-parade, Upper Union-street, Cross-street, and others, being erected, some public-spirited gentlemen, in order to attract the attention of the public, in the year 1813 resolved to erect an a.s.sembly-room that might vie with, if not excel those of Bath and Cheltenham.

This, at the expense of ten thousand pounds, was carried into execution by a pupil of the celebrated Wyatt. The s.p.a.cious front of this beautiful edifice is constructed with native stone, wherein no superfluous ornaments are admitted. In the central part there are a range of seven windows, supported by light pilasters of the Ionic order, surmounted by a plain entablature. Two handsome wings project from the main building, and judiciously relieve it; they contain those apartments that are usual and necessary appendages to a large a.s.sembly room.--There are two entrances into this building; one on the eastern side, from Union-parade, through a small porch, supported by four Ionic columns; the other, the princ.i.p.al entrance, is from Upper Cross-street, through a pair of large folding doors in the right wing, into the hall. The hall is s.p.a.cious and well-proportioned, the refectory being opposite to the entrance. To the right is a billiard-room, containing a ma.s.sive mahogany table, made by Fernyhough, of London, said to be worth one hundred guineas, and to the left a flight of stairs conducts you to another billiard-room, which, although it is not quite so s.p.a.cious, is equally commodious as the other. On the same side you enter the ball-room through a pair of folding doors: this magnificent room measures in length eighty-two feet, in width thirty-six, and in height twenty-six. From the ceiling, which is beautifully ornamented with stucco, three superb chandeliers of cut gla.s.s are suspended, which with those in the other apartments are said to have cost one thousand guineas. The range of windows aforementioned are furnished with curtains of crimson moreen, edged with black fringe. On the opposite side of the room there are two fire-places, the chimney pieces being formed of Kilkenny marble, highly polished, over which are two ornamental mirrors of large dimensions. At the upper end is the orchestra, to the left of which is a door leading into the card room, which is a s.p.a.cious and elegant apartment, and beyond it is a reading-room, well provided with the London and provincial newspapers, to which are added some of the most esteemed periodical publications. On ball nights, this room is appropriated for tea. From the month of June till November b.a.l.l.s are held every Thursday night, at eight o'clock, and card a.s.semblies occasionally throughout the season. The whole concern is under the direction of a committee, the master of the ceremonies being C.

Stevenson, Esq.

Mr. George Stanley, mason, of Warwick, laid the first brick of the first house erected at new Leamington, 8th October, 1808. This first house was built by Mr. Frost, of Warwick, and stands at the corner of Upper Cross-street, opposite the a.s.sembly rooms; in honour of him there is now a street bears his name, (Frost-street.)

_The Theatre._

This neat building, upon a diminutive scale, was erected in 1814, immediately in front of the Bath hotel, the exterior appears to be coated with Parker's cement, and the interior is ornamented with views of Leamington, Warwick, Guy's Clift, &c, and fitted up with some taste.

_The Post Office._

This necessary and convenient place for all descriptions of people to resort to, is situated about two hundred yards east of the church, where there are gardens, kept in neat order, for the accommodation of those who wait with impatience for their letters; or they may promenade from the office to Gordon house.

_Ranelagh Gardens_

Are regularly improved every season, and with their various amus.e.m.e.nts, are deserving of attention.

_The Church_

Is an ancient pile of building, dedicated to All Saints, which, from the great influx of visitors, being found too small for their accommodation, an entire new wing was constructed in 1816, and it still requires to be farther extended, or a new one erected. A moderate subscription from the wealthy visitors would do much towards it. The officiating minister, the Rev. E. Trotman, is only engaged to do single duty on a Sunday, but to accommodate the visitors, he performs a second entire service, and to remunerate him for his attention, subscription books are opened. During the season of 1818, another hotel was begun, upon which twenty thousand pounds being appropriated to the completion of it, is a sum sufficient to render it equal to any other house of entertainment in the kingdom.

An elegant suite of rooms have recently been opened, ent.i.tled the Apollo, where a.s.semblies were held every fortnight, during winter.

Boarding houses are continually opening every week, and in every quarter of the town there are good houses in a state of forwardness, against the present season.

_A Hint from the Editor_.

From the rapid manner in which the buildings encrease at Leamington, it is evident that there is a superabundance of money, and as soft water is a scarce article within the town, could not a portion of that superfluous money be advantageously employed in conveying that useful and necessary article to the respective houses, by means of a steam engine, there being a powerful spring at no great distance?

_To Meriden, twelve miles, on the road to Coventry._

You proceed through Deritend and Bordesley, when you take the left hand road, and having crossed the Warwick ca.n.a.l, the ruins of Bordesley house are in full view; they having continued in that state ever since the year 1791, when the house was demolished by an infuriated mob. The land by which it is surrounded has been parcelled out, and advertised to be let for building. On the left is a farm-house, denominated the Garrison, from whence there is an extensive view over the town of Birmingham; and on this eminence it is supposed that Oliver Cromwell planted his artillery to overawe the town; but the majority of the inhabitants being favourable to his cause, there was no necessity to make use of it; and what gives weight to this supposition is, that this spot being about one mile and a half from Aston hall, it is very probable that from thence the artillery played upon that mansion, as a ball penetrated into the interior of it. At the distance of three miles and a half, there is a road on the left, which leads to the village of Yardley.

Having pa.s.sed the four mile stone, you ascend a gently rising hill, and when at the summit a delightful and extensive view presents itself; there being a windmill in the front, and on the left the tower of Sheldon church is seen, and also the steeple of Coles.h.i.+ll church.

_Elmdon Hall._

The seat of A. Spooner Lillingston, Esq. is an elegant modern pile of building, on the right of the road, at the distance of six miles. It is situate in an extensive lawn, interspersed with shrubberies, from whence there are variegated and extensive prospects, the churches of Birmingham, Solihull, and Yardley being distinctly seen, backed by Barr-beacon, the Rowley hills, &c. and withoutside of the lawn the spire of Coles.h.i.+ll church is a pleasing object. The church, which is a neat stone building, was erected by Abraham Spooner, Esq. the entrance is under the tower, which admits of exhibiting to great advantage, an elegant window composed entirely of stained gla.s.s. In the centre is a representation of the last supper, delicately executed in a circle, about nine inches in diameter, date 1532. There are also three ovals, representing Faith, Hope, and Charity, executed in a masterly manner, apparently about the same period. There is also a neat organ, of a size suitable to the place.

At a short distance farther, there is on the right a church upon an eminence, with a delicate spire, at a place called Church Bickenhill; and a short distance beyond is an extensive and variegated prospect, with Coles.h.i.+ll church on the left. Having crossed the river Cole at Stonebridge, at the distance of half a mile on the left is Packington hall, the seat of the Earl of Aylesford, which is a substantial modern stone building, situated in a park, wherein are some of the most n.o.ble oak trees that are to be found in the kingdom. There are also numerous sheets of water, and the church, which was erected by the late Earl, after a plan of Bonomi's, which is an immense arch, both interior and exterior, after the manner of the Italians, and is nearly in the centre of the park. The organ was made by order of Handel, and presented by him to the late Earl; it being esteemed a very fine toned one.--The altar-piece represents angels paying adoration to the Saviour, and is painted in a masterly style by Rigaud.

The archery ground made use of by the woodmen of Ardeu is bounded by a plantation on the left of the road, about one mile before you arrive at Meriden. The members of this society hold several meetings each summer, when they shoot for various prizes. On the ground there is an elegant building erected, where the members dine, or take refreshment, and at other times it serves as a general deposit for their bows and arrows. This is almost the only society of woodmen now in the kingdom.

At Meriden there is a commodious inn, adjacent to which are delightful gardens, and the accommodation for travellers are excellent.

_To Sutton, distant eight miles, on the road to Lichfield._

You leave Birmingham, through Aston-street and the adjacent buildings in the parish of Aston, which extend for a considerable distance along the road. Having pa.s.sed the buildings, you soon after cross a small stream of water, that has performed its office of turning a corn mill, which you perceive on your left hand. This mill was within memory a forge, for the making of bar iron.--There is another mill upon the same stream, a short distance above, known by the name of Aston furnace, which was a blast furnace for the purpose of making pig iron to supply the forge below, and must have been made use of as such for a prodigious number of years, the slag or refuse from it forming an immense heap only a few years back, which has been conveyed away to make and repair the roads, and in some instances to erect buildings.[9] This mill has been considerably enlarged, and a steam engine erected contiguous to it, and is now used as a paper mill. From an adjacent hill there is a good view over the town of Birmingham.

[Footnote 9: See Hockley abbey, on the road to Wolverhampton.]

A lofty brick wall now presents itself to view, by which the park belonging to Aston hall is surrounded: it being by computation three miles in circ.u.mference; within which there is a great abundance of valuable timber, and it is also well stocked with deer. When the wall recedes from the high road, keep by the side of it, which leads you to the parish church, and also to the mansion house or hall, which is a brick building, erected by Sir Thomas Holt, about the year 1636, at the same time that he enclosed the park. He also erected alms houses, for five men and five women, which he endowed, with eighty-eight pounds per annum, out of the manor of Erdington. The hall has of late years been in the possession of Heneage Legge, Esq. but is at present unoccupied, and the whole estate is upon sale.[10]

[Footnote 10: Since writing the above, the mansion of Aston, together with the park, has been purchased by Messrs. Greenway and Whitehead, of Warwick, who have converted the house into two tenements, disposed of the deer, turned the park into enclosures, and fallen the timber.]

The church which is dedicated to St. Peter and Paul, is a stone building, with a lofty spire, and contains several monuments of the Holt family; it is also ornamented with two windows of stained gla.s.s, by Eginton. In the church-yard there is a remarkable grave stone, which is fixed east and west.[11] The present inc.u.mbant is the Rev.

Benjamin Spencer, L.L.D.

Sir Lister Holt, the late proprietor of this estate, not having any children, and being at variance with his only brother, (who succeeded to the t.i.tle), he entailed the estate upon four different families, none of whom had or are likely to have any children, although they have been in possession of it for the s.p.a.ce of near forty years.

[Footnote 11: It is a thick stone, about two foot in height, on which is the following inscription:--

EAST SIDE;

HERE LIETH THE BODY OF REBECKAH PEMBORTON WIF OF ISAAC PEMBORTON BVRI 27 OF DECEM 1660

HERE LIETH THE BODY OF ISAAC PEM- BERTON HE DEPARTED DECEM 4: 1697 AGED 76

WEST SIDE.

THO I AM HERE LAID LOW IN GRAVE THINK ON THE COVNSEL WICH I GAVE THO TRO VNLES MAY TO Y DECEND: A GRAC LOVS BLESSIN IN THE END

THE FIRST STONE SET VP IN THIS YARD THO OTHERS SINCE MORE FINLY CARVED WAS IN REMEMBERANCE OF SHE AN OBJECT OF MORTALITY]

Returning into the main road, you perceive on the left a double row of lofty elms, that extend about half a mile; and at the termination of the vista, Aston hall and the lofty spire of the church produce a grand effect. On the right there is a sheet of water that turns a mill for the use of the Birmingham manufacturers. You soon after cross Salford bridge, to the right of which is an aqueduct that conveys the Birmingham ca.n.a.l over the river Tame. The village of Erdington does not contain any object deserving of attention, but a little beyond on the right is Pipe hall, an ancient seat of the Bagot family, now occupied by the Rev. Egerton Bagot.

In the vicinity there are several neat houses, which are chiefly inhabited by wealthy people, who have retired from Birmingham. A short distance from hence Mary Ashford was found drowned on the 27th May, 1817.

About the fifth mile stone, the eye is gratified on the left with an extensive view over the country, which continually varies for a considerable distance, until a most beautiful and picturesque landscape presents itself; a white house belonging to a mill and an extensive sheet of water being in front, Barr-beacon in the back ground, and the woods in Sutton park on the right.

_Sutton Coldfield._

This remarkably neat and clean town is situated about midway between the town of Birmingham and the city of Lichfield; lying south from the latter place, its name is supposed to be derived from South Town, and by corruption, Sutton. There is a very considerable portion of land near this town, where travellers say the air is equally sharp and cold as it is upon the highlands of Scotland, and from this circ.u.mstance the latter part of its name originates. Independant of this tract of land, there is another contiguous to it, which is denominated the park, wherein a part of the Roman road, called Icknield Street, still remains perfect; there is also a spring called Rounton well, whose water is remarkably cold and produces a very copious stream, to which numerous people who are afflicted with cutaneous disorders resort, and derive considerable benefit from drinking and bathing therein. It cures the most virulent itch in the human species, and also the mange in dogs, if sufficient care is taken to wash them well in the stream, but a slight was.h.i.+ng will not produce the desired effect.

The church is an ancient stone building, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and the present rector is the Rev. John Riland, who is also patron of the living. Within the church there is an organ, and some monuments deserving of attention; there are also three vaults, two of which having been opened, the coffins and their contents were mouldered into dust, although they had been deposited there within the memory of man.

This town was incorporated by the eighth Henry, at the solicitation of Vesey, bishop of Exeter, who was his chancellor, and a native of this place. It is denominated a corporate body, by the name of the warden and society of the king's town of Sutton Coldfield, and consists of twenty-four members besides the warden, with a grant to them of the whole manor and lords.h.i.+p of the parish, together with a tract of waste ground, called the park, containing about 3500 acres, wherein is great abundance of valuable timber, on condition of paying into the exchequer a fee farm rent of fifty-eight pounds per annum.

The said Bishop Vesey erected fifty-one stone houses in the parish and also a free grammar school, which he liberally endowed with land, and ordained by the statutes, that the master should be a layman, which is strictly adhered to. He also procured for the inhabitants a market, and the extraordinary privilege that every person who erected a house in Sutton, should be ent.i.tled to sixty acres of land in the park.