Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the Polar Sea Part 8

Till our tedious detention at Foggy Island, we had had no doubt of ultimate success; and it was with no ordinary pain that I could now bring myself even to think of relinquis.h.i.+ng the great object of my ambition, and of disappointing the flattering confidence that had been reposed in my exertions. But I had higher duties to perform than the gratification of my own feelings; and a mature consideration of all the above matters forced me to the conclusion, that we had reached that point beyond which perseverance would be rashness, and our best efforts must be fruitless. In order to put the reader completely in possession of the motives which would have influenced me, had I been entirely a free agent, I have mentioned them without allusion to the clause in my instructions which directed me to commence my return on the 15th or 20th of August, "if, in consequence of slow progress, or other unforeseen accident, it should remain doubtful whether we should be able to reach Kotzebue's Inlet the same season."

In the evening I communicated my determination to the whole party; they received it with the good feeling that had marked their conduct throughout the voyage, and they a.s.sured me of their cheerful acquiescence in any order I should give. The readiness with which they would have prosecuted the voyage, had it been advisable to do so, was the more creditable, because many of them had their legs swelled and inflamed from continually wading in ice-cold water while launching the boats, not only when we accidentally ran on sh.o.r.e, but every time that it was requisite to embark, or to land upon this shallow coast. Nor were these symptoms to be overlooked in coming to a determination; for though no one who knows the resolute disposition of British sailors can be surprised at their more than readiness to proceed, I felt that it was my business to judge of their capability of so doing, and not to allow myself to be seduced by their ardour, however honourable to them, and cheering to me.

Compelled as I was to come to the determination of returning, it is a great satisfaction to me to know, as I now do, that the reasons which induced me to take this step were well-founded. This will appear by the following extract from Captain Beechey's official account of his proceedings in advancing eastward from Icy Cape, with which I have been favoured.

"Mr. Elson, (the master,) after quitting the s.h.i.+p off Icy Cape, on the 18th August, had proceeded along the coast without interruption, until the 22nd of the month, when he arrived off a very low sandy spit, beyond which, to the eastward, the coast formed a bay, with a more easterly trending than that on the west side; but it was so low that it could not be traced far, and became blended with the ice before it reached the horizon. It was found impossible to proceed round the spit, in consequence of the ice being grounded upon it, and extending to the horizon in every direction, except that by which the boat had advanced, and was so compact that no openings were seen in any part of it. This point, which is the most northern part of the continent yet known, lies in lat.i.tude, by meridian alt.i.tude of the sun, 71 degrees 23 minutes 39 seconds N.; and longitude, by several sets of lunar distances, both observed on an iceberg, 156 degrees 21 minutes W.; and is situated one hundred and twenty miles beyond Icy Cape. Between these two stations, and, indeed, to the southward of the latter, the coast is very flat, abounding in lakes and rivers, which are too shallow to be entered by anything but a baidar. The greater part of the coast is thickly inhabited by Esquimaux, who have their winter-habitations close to the beach.

"The barge had not been off this point sufficiently long to complete the necessary observations, when the same westerly wind, which had induced me to proceed round Cape Lisburn, brought the ice down upon the coast, and left the boat no retreat. It at the same time occasioned a current along sh.o.r.e to the northward, at the rate of three and four miles per hour. The body of ice took the ground in six and seven fathoms water, but pieces of a lighter draft filled up the s.p.a.ce between it and the sh.o.r.e, and, hurried along by the impetuosity of the current, drove the barge ash.o.r.e, but fortunately without staving her. By the exertions of her officers and crew she was extricated from this perilous situation, and attempts were made to track her along the land wherever openings occurred, in execution of which the greatest fatigue was endured by all her crew. At length all efforts proving ineffectual, and the s.p.a.ces between the ice and the sh.o.r.e becoming frozen over, it was proposed to abandon the boat, and the crew to make their way along the coast to Kotzebue Sound, before the season should be too far advanced.

Preparations were accordingly made; and that the boat might not be irrevocably lost to the s.h.i.+p, it was determined to get her into one of the lakes, and there sink her, that the natives might not break her up, and from which she might be extricated the following summer, should the s.h.i.+p return. During this period of their difficulties they received much a.s.sistance from the natives, who, for a little tobacco, put their hands to the tow-rope. Their conduct had, in the first instance, been suspicious; but in the time of their greatest distress, they were well disposed, bringing venison, seal's flesh, oil, &c., and offered up a prayer that the wind would blow off the sh.o.r.e, and liberate the boat from her critical situation. Before the necessary arrangements were made respecting the barge, appearances took a more favourable turn; the ice began to move off sh.o.r.e, and after much tracking, &c., the boat was got clear, and made the best of her way toward the sound; but off Cape Lisburn she met with a gale of wind, which blew in eddies so violently, that it is said the spray was carried up to the tops of the mountains; and the boat, during this trial, behaved so well, that not a moment's anxiety for her safety was entertained. I must not close the account without expressing my warm approbation of the conduct of Mr. Elson."

The barge rejoined Captain Beechey on the 10th September, at Chamisso Island, the Blossom having gone thither to wood and water, and being further forced to quit the coast to the northward, in consequence of strong westerly winds.

Could I have known, or by possibility imagined, that a party from the Blossom had been at the distance of only one hundred and sixty miles from me, no difficulties, dangers, or discouraging circ.u.mstances, should have prevailed on me to return; but taking into account the uncertainty of all voyages in a sea obstructed by ice, I had no right to expect that the Blossom had advanced beyond Kotzebue Inlet, or that any party from her had doubled Icy Cape. It is useless now to speculate on the probable result of a proceeding which did not take place; but I may observe, that, had we gone forward as soon as the weather permitted, namely, on the 18th, it is scarcely possible that any change of circ.u.mstances could have enabled us to overtake the Blossom's barge.[3]

[Sidenote: Thursday, 17th.] The wind changed to N.E. after midnight, the squalls were more violent, and in the morning of the 17th such a surf was beating on the borders of the reef, that the boats could not be launched. The fog disappeared before the gale about eleven, and during the afternoon we enjoyed the clearest atmosphere that we had witnessed since our departure from Mount Conybeare. This was the first opportunity there had been, for the seven preceding days, of making astronomical observations, and we gladly took advantage of it, to observe the lat.i.tude, 70 degrees 26 minutes N.; longitude 148 degrees 52 minutes W.; and variation 41 degrees 20 minutes E. We had likewise the gratification of being able to trace the land round Gwydyr Bay, to its outer point, bearing S. 79 W. ten miles, which I have named after my excellent companion Lieutenant Back, and of seeing a still more westerly hummock, bearing S. 84 W., about fifteen miles, that has been distinguished by the name of my friend Captain Beechey; at which point, in lat.i.tude 70 degrees 24 minutes N., longitude 149 degrees 37 minutes W., our discoveries terminated. The fog returned at sunset, and as the wind was piercingly cold, and we had neither fire nor room for exercise, we crept between the blankets, as the only means of keeping ourselves warm.

[Sidenote: Friday, 18th.] The gale having considerably abated, and the weather being clear, we quitted Return Reef on the morning of the 18th, and began to retrace our way towards the Mackenzie. As the waves were still very high to seaward, we attempted to proceed inside of the reefs, but as the boats were constantly taking the ground, we availed ourselves of the first channel that was sufficiently deep to pull on the outside of them. The swell being too great there for the use of the oars, the sails were set double reefed, and the boats beat to the eastward against the wind, between the drift ice and the shallow water.

A gale rose after noon from N.E. by N., which enabled us to shape a course for Foggy Island, where we arrived at three P.M., just at a time when the violence of the squalls, and the increased height of the swell, would have rendered further proceeding very hazardous. We now enjoyed the comforts of a good fire and a warm meal, which we had not had since the evening of the 16th. The men were afterwards employed in erecting a square pile of drift timber, on the highest part of the island fronting the sea, on which a red cornet flag was left flying, and underneath it was deposited, in a tin case, a letter for Captain Parry, containing an account of our proceedings; also a silver medal and a halfpenny: and in order that government might have some chance of hearing of our proceedings, should any accident subsequently befal the party, there was also deposited an unsealed letter, wrapped in bark, addressed to the Russian Fur Traders, in the expectation that the Esquimaux might probably convey it to their Establishment. An ice-chisel, a knife, a file, and a hatchet, were hung up on the pile, for the Esquimaux. On digging to erect these posts, the ground was found frozen at the depth of sixteen inches; and the thermometer, during the day, seldom rose above 37 degrees. This evening the temperature was 33 degrees.

[Sidenote: Sat.u.r.day, 19th.] We were vexatiously detained the 19th, and following day, by the continuance of the gale, and a thick fog; during which time many large flocks of geese were observed pa.s.sing away to the westward. The tides were now much higher than during our first visit.

[Sidenote: Monday, 21st.] The breeze was moderate on the morning of the 21st, yet we were prevented from embarking until ten o'clock, by the return of the fog. We then hastened to escape from this ill-omened island. The boats were pulled to seaward, so as to gain a sufficient offing for them to pa.s.s on the outside of the shallow water; and by the aid of the oars and sails we made good progress, and encamped within sight of Flaxman Island. A black whale, a seal of the largest kind, and numerous flocks of geese were seen in the course of this day. Several stars were visible after ten P.M. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 22nd.] Showers of snow fell during the night, but the morning of the 22nd was calm and clear. We embarked at daylight, and in the course of three hours arrived abreast of the east end of Flaxman Island. The ice had broken from the northern sh.o.r.e during our absence, and was now lying about a mile from the land, apparently aground on reefs, as we had observed it to be along the outer border of the one at the west end of the island. The water was much deeper between Flaxman Island and the main than when we pa.s.sed in the early part of August. Eastward of Point Brownlow there was an open channel of three or four miles wide. And by keeping close to the borders of the drift ice we avoided the shallows at the mouth of the Canning River, and arrived at Boulder Island about noon. Here we found an Esquimaux grave, containing three bodies, covered with drift timber, and by their side there were placed the canoes, arrows, and fis.h.i.+ng implements of the deceased. Not being able to procure fresh water here, we set forward to cross Camden Bay, touched at one of the points to fill the water-casks, and reached Barter Island after dark; the crews much fatigued, having been pulling for nineteen hours. We regretted to find the Esquimaux had visited this spot during our absence, and carried away the gun and ammunition which had been left by mistake at the encampment on the 4th of August, because we were not only apprehensive that some accident might have occurred in the attempt to discharge the gun, but were desirous to prevent the introduction of fire-arms among these people. [Sidenote: Wednesday, 23rd.] Being now near the point of the coast at which we had seen a considerable number of the natives, we remained at the encampment until ten o'clock on the morning of the 23d, to clean the guns and issue a fresh supply of ammunition to the party.

The day was calm and cloudless; the whole range of the Romanzoff Mountains was in sight, and they appeared to be more covered with snow than when we pa.s.sed to the westward. A few musquitoes made their appearance, but they were very feeble. Having landed at Point Manning to replenish the water-casks, we afterwards pulled throughout the day close to the edge of the ice, which was still heavy, though loose, and encamped near Point Griffin. Some large-sized medusae, and several of the gelatinous substances known to seamen by the name of blubber, were found on the beach, which accounted for the number of black ducks that had been seen in the course of the day, as they feed on those substances.

The temperature varied this day from 35 degrees to 46 degrees; and the thermometer rose to 64 degrees at two P.M., when exposed to the sun's rays.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 24th.] The morning of the 24th was calm; we set forward at daylight, and having proceeded a few miles between heavy floating ice, about half a mile from the sh.o.r.e we met with a large sheet of bay ice of last night's formation, of sufficient thickness to impede though not to stop the boats. Having arrived abreast of Point Humphrys, we steered out to seaward, for the purpose of avoiding the shallows that extend across Beaufort Bay, intending to direct our course in a line for Mount Conybeare, which was in sight. We were then exposed to a long rolling swell, and we soon afterwards perceived that it had driven the ice upon the reefs at the eastern extremity of the bay, which would have precluded our retreat to the sh.o.r.e in the event of the wind rising. It therefore became necessary to penetrate into the pack, and keep by the side of the reefs; but in doing so, the boats were exposed to no little danger of being broken in pa.s.sing through the narrow channels between the ma.s.ses of ice which were tossing with the swell, and from which large pieces frequently fell. At six P.M. we pa.s.sed our former encampment on Icy Reef, and afterwards proceeded through an open s.p.a.ce to Demarcation Point, where we encamped, and hauled up the boats to prevent them from being injured by the surf. We found here two families of Esquimaux, which belonged to the party that had been to Barter Island, waiting the return of a man from hunting, in order to follow their companions to the eastward. They showed much joy at seeing us again, and remained the greater part of the night talking with Augustus.

The most active young man of the party, not thinking himself sufficiently smart for the occasion, retired to the oomiak to change his dress and mouth ornaments, capering about on his return, evidently proud of his gayer appearance.

[Sidenote: Friday, 25th.] The morning was foggy, but there being little wind, we launched the boats, and pulled for an hour close to the sh.o.r.e, when we came to a body of ice so closely packed as scarcely to afford a pa.s.sage, and it was with difficulty that we arrived at Clarence River.

There we perceived four tents; near which we had been warned by our visitors last night not to land, as the party had recently lost their parents, and it was feared that, in the state of mind in which they then were, they might be disposed to do us some injury. We pulled near enough to inquire about the gun, and learned that the person who had it was farther to the eastward. The difficulties of forcing a pa.s.sage were not diminished beyond this place, and we were further impeded in our advance by new ice formed between the larger ma.s.ses, which required additional labour to break through. The fog cleared away at ten; we halted to breakfast at Backhouse River, and remained whilst Augustus went in pursuit of two rein-deer, one of which he killed.

Renewing our course, we pa.s.sed on the outside of the ice until we were nearly abreast of Mount Conybeare, when the wind came strong from the eastward, and obliged us to have recourse again to its shelter. This barrier, however, terminated at the end of five miles, and being then exposed to the wind and swell, against which the men were unable to pull, we encamped.

The experience we had now gained of the ice being packed upon this sh.o.r.e by a wind from the sea, a.s.sured us of the correctness of the report which the Esquimaux had given, and likewise afforded a reason for their expression of surprise at our being unprovided with sledges, as it was evident, unless a strong wind blew from the land, that the new ice would soon unite the pack with the sh.o.r.e, and preclude the possibility of making the pa.s.sage in boats, unless by going outside of the ice, which would be extremely hazardous, from the want of shelter in the event of a gale springing up. The pieces of ice were generally from ten to fifteen feet in height, many of them were from twenty to thirty feet: their length was from twenty to one hundred yards. We saw several white whales in the open water, and a flock of white geese at the encampment, which were the first noticed on this coast. The rising of the wind from E.N.E.

this afternoon was accompanied by an increase of temperature from 43 degrees to 53 degrees, and we felt a comfortable sensation of warmth, to which we had been strangers for the preceding month.

[Sidenote: Sat.u.r.day, 26th.] We took advantage of a favourable breeze to embark before daylight on the morning of the 26th; at sunrise it increased to a gale, and raised a heavy sea. In two hours we ran to the commencement of the intricate channels leading to Herschel Island, where the Esquimaux seen at Barter Island were encamped on a reef, and apparently gazing in astonishment at the speed of our boats. They made many signs for us to land, which we were desirous of doing had it been practicable for the surf. That the boats might be perfectly manageable, we took two reefs in the sails, and shaped the course for Herschel Island; but scarcely were the sails reset before a fog came on that hid every mark that could guide us; a heavy swell was rolling at the time, and to arrive at the island we had to pa.s.s through a channel only about two hundred yards broad. To find this, surrounded as it was by shoals, in the midst of a dense fog, was a task of considerable anxiety and danger, and our situation was not rendered more agreeable by being a.s.sailed the whole way with continued shouting from persons to us invisible; our arrival having been communicated by the Esquimaux who first descried us, to their companions on the neighbouring reefs. We effected it, however, and landed in safety, though we did not discover the island till we were within forty yards of its sh.o.r.e. We had scarcely landed before the fog dispersed, and discovered to us a solitary tent on an adjacent point. Three men soon paid us a visit, whom we had not seen before, and they informed us that nearly the whole of the tribe was now collected in the vicinity for the purpose of hunting deer, and catching whales and seals for the winter's consumption. We quitted the island at ten A.M., and steered directly for Point Kay, to avoid the sinuosities of the coast, and the frequent interruption of the Esquimaux, whose tents were observed to be scattered on the beach nearly the whole way to Babbage River. Three men and some women came off to bring us fish, and being liberally rewarded, they went away perfectly happy, singing the praises of the white people. We pa.s.sed round Point Kay at four P.M., with a moderate breeze from W.N.W., and steered for Point King, keeping about two miles from the land. As the afternoon wore away, gloomy clouds gathered in the north-west; and at six a violent squall came from that quarter, attended with snow and sleet. The gale increased with rapidity: in less than ten minutes the sea was white with foam, and such waves were raised as I had never before been exposed to in a boat. The spray and sea broke over us incessantly, and it was with difficulty that we could keep free by baling. Our little vessels went through the water with great velocity under a close-reefed sail, hoisted about three feet up the main-mast, and proved themselves to be very buoyant. Their small size, however, and the nature of their construction, necessarily adapted for the navigation of shallow rivers, unfitting them for withstanding the sea then running, we were in imminent danger of foundering. I therefore resolved on making for the sh.o.r.e, as the only means of saving the party, although I was aware that, in so doing, I incurred the hazard of staving the boats, there being few places on this part of the coast where there was sufficient beach under the broken cliffs. The wind blowing along the land we could not venture on exposing the boat's side to the sea by hauling directly in, but, edging away with the wind on the quarter, we most providentially took the ground in a favourable spot.

The boats were instantly filled with the surf, but they were unloaded and dragged up without having sustained any material damage. Impressed with a sense of grat.i.tude for the signal deliverance we had experienced on this and other occasions, we a.s.sembled in the evening to offer up praise and thanksgiving to the Almighty.

[Sidenote: Sunday, 27th.] On the 27th the weather was calm; but as a heavy surf prevented our embarkation, we took advantage of the delay to dry our bedding, clothes, and pemmican. The guns were likewise cleaned, and every thing put in order. There was an Esquimaux party at this spot, which had witnessed the landing of the boats in the storm with astonishment, having expected to see every man drowned. Augustus pa.s.sed the night at their tents; and having brought the whole party to our encampment, the women, with much good nature, sewed soles of seal-skins to the men's moca.s.sins, in order to fit them better for the operation of tracking, in which they were soon to be employed. These Esquimaux had recently returned from a visit to the gang that had pillaged the boats at the mouth of the Mackenzie; and we now learned the intention that had been entertained of destroying our party, along with the other particulars that have been already mentioned.

[Sidenote: Monday, 28th.] Our approach to the Mackenzie was marked by the quant.i.ty of drift timber floating about. We pa.s.sed several families of the natives, without visiting them, until we perceived one party taking some fish from their nets, which tempted us to land. The fish were large _t.i.ttameg_ and _inconnu_, and proved remarkably fine. We again embarked, but having to pull head to the sea, we took in much water, and were glad to seek shelter on a gravel reef, where three Esquimaux tents were pitched. The whole party quickly mustered around us, and we were not a little surprised to find so many inhabitants as twenty-seven, including women and children, in three tents only; but on inquiry we found that the number was not greater than usual. Two of the men were very aged and feeble, the rest were young and active. They practise jumping, as an amus.e.m.e.nt, from their youth; and we had an opportunity of witnessing some of their feats, which displayed much agility. The women cheerfully repaired our moca.s.sins, and their industry, as well as the good conduct of the men, were rewarded by some valuable presents. We were astonished to learn that there had been fog only a day and a half in this neighbourhood since we pa.s.sed, but the wind had been generally strong. Augustus gained some information respecting the western Esquimaux, and the coast to the westward, which he did not communicate to me until some days afterwards, otherwise I should have endeavoured to elicit more satisfactory details. It was to the following purport:--The western Esquimaux having purchased the furs from those men that dwell near the Mackenzie, at Barter Island, proceed to the westward again without delay. A few days journey beyond a part of the coast which Augustus understood from description to be Return Reef, the sea is still more shallow than that which we had navigated, and the water is still, except at certain periods of the year, when it is agitated like a strong rapid, by the efflux of the waters of a deep inlet, or strait. The land is visible on both sides from the middle of this opening; the Esquimaux make for the west side, and on reaching it relinquish their canoes, and drag their furs overland to the Russian establishments, which are situated in the interior, where the land is more elevated than on the coast. The Mountain Indians come down annually in large parties to this inlet, and warm contests often arise between them and the Esquimaux. The latter are frequently worsted, from their inferior numbers, and lose their property, which the Indians bring by land to the neighbourhood of Herschel Island, to dispose of to the Esquimaux in that quarter. The direction of the inlet was supposed, by Augustus, to be about south-west. I am inclined to think that it is the estuary of a large river, flowing to the west of the Rocky Mountains, obstructed by sand-banks, like the mouth of the Mackenzie. In the course of the day three Esquimaux, who had seen our tent from a distance, came to visit us. One of them was recognised to have been of the party which attacked us at the mouth of the Mackenzie. He gave Augustus a detailed account of their schemes on that occasion, which exactly corresponded with that we had received on the preceding day. He further told us that the party which had a.s.sailed us had certainly removed to the eastward; but if any of them should have remained, to watch our motions, they could be avoided by entering the river by a more westerly branch than the one which we had descended, and offered to guide us thither. This man was very intelligent, and having carefully examined the boats, intimated that he would construct an oomiak after the same plan. We embarked at four in the evening with our new friend for a guide, and in a short time arrived at the main sh.o.r.e where his tent stood, and where he asked the party to encamp, as he intended to go no farther. We were not, however, so disposed; and having filled the casks with fresh water, and made some presents to the women, we pushed off to take advantage of the remaining daylight in getting round a reef which projected far seaward. We could not effect this, and at sunset, not being able to land on the reef on account of the shallowness of the water, we put back to within a mile and a half of the Esquimaux tents. Garry Island was seen soon after sunset; and the aurora borealis appeared in the night for the first time this season. The temperature of the air varied from 30 degrees to 49 degrees, and that of the sea water was 37 degrees 2 minutes, a quarter of a mile from the sh.o.r.e. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 29th.]

A gale coming on in the night, and continuing till the following evening, detained us on sh.o.r.e. During our stay we were visited by a numerous party of Esquimaux, and found it necessary to draw a line round the tents, which they were not permitted to pa.s.s. These people told us that Dr. Richardson's party had been seen clear of the Mackenzie, and had given kettles to men in three canoes, after escaping an attempt made by the Esquimaux to drag the boats on sh.o.r.e. This account, showing that the propensity to plunder was not confined to the Esquimaux with whom we had met, excited painful apprehensions for the safety of the eastern party, if they should find it necessary to return by the Mackenzie, because we now learned that the natives collect in numbers near its mouth at the close of summer. In ordinary seasons the weather is mild, and the winds variable until the ice breaks up, which is usually about the end of August, when north-west winds, and stormy weather, are expected. In this season, however, the winds had been so boisterous that the Esquimaux had seldom been able to venture out to sea, and their whale fishery had consequently failed. Our visitors left us about two P.M.; but, shortly afterwards, we heard loud cries, and on looking round saw two young Esquimaux running in breathless haste to announce that a large party of Indians had come down from the mountains with the express purpose of attacking the boats and killing every man of the party. They desired us to embark instantly, as the only means of escape; for the Indians, they said, were already at the tents within our view, and when they left them they were on the point of spreading round us to commence the onset. They further said, that the Indians, having been provoked by our trading with the Esquimaux, had been along the coast in search of us, and that it was only this afternoon they had espied our tents, which, by the fluttering in the wind, they knew did not belong to the Esquimaux. On this discovery they had come to the nearest party of Esquimaux to make known their intention, and to request their aid. They were met by our two young friends, who were out hunting, but who returned with them to their tents, and after learning the plans in agitation, had stolen off to apprize us of our danger. As soon as Spinks returned, who had gone to shoot, we shoved off; and never were men more delighted than our two Esquimaux friends seemed to be at our escape; and especially at that of Augustus, to save whom, they a.s.serted more than once, was their princ.i.p.al motive in coming to us. While Spinks was out of sight, they climbed up to the top of an old house to look for him, with the greatest apparent solicitude, and were the first to discover him returning. Up to the time of his arrival they kept repeating every particular respecting the Indians, and pointing out the mode of avoiding them. It was their intention, they said, to pursue us to the Mackenzie, but that we should get there before them, because there were two rivers in the way which the Indians would have great difficulty in crossing, being unprovided with canoes. They urged us to make all speed, and not to halt in the night, nor to go to sleep; but, if the crew became tired, to put up on an island out of gun-shot of the main sh.o.r.e, because the Indians were armed with guns as well as bows. They instructed Augustus minutely as to the course we were to steer round the reef, and directed us to keep along the main sh.o.r.e until we should come to a large opening, which was the western outlet of the Mackenzie, and had a deep channel.

We rewarded their friendly conduct by a considerable present of iron, which they received with an indifference that showed them not to have been actuated by interested motives in making the communications.

Previous to the arrival of these men we had perceived the smoke of a distant fire, which we had little regarded, supposing it to have been made by some Esquimaux who were hunting, but which, it seems, was the fire of the Indians. Having pulled round the reef, and being aided by a westerly breeze, we soon regained the main sh.o.r.e, and pa.s.sed the mouth of the two rivers of which the Esquimaux had spoken. The night beginning to close in we pulled up to the head of an inlet; when heavy rain and squalls coming on, we determined to halt. [Sidenote: Wednesday, 30th.]

As soon as the day dawned, which was about half-past two in the morning, we returned to Shoal Water Bay; and, sailing along the coast for two or three miles to the eastward, arrived at another opening, in which the water was fresh, and we did not doubt but it would prove the deep channel by which we had been instructed to ascend. There was plenty of water near its mouth, but it gradually shoaled; and, at the distance of four miles, we ascertained that this promising opening was likewise an inlet. I now relinquished the search for a more westerly outlet than the one by which we had descended, and, therefore, steered for Pillage Point, which soon afterwards came in sight. After dragging the boats for two hours, over the shoals, we rounded Pillage Point at ten A.M., and reached the deep water most opportunely; for, almost at the instant, a violent north-west gale came on, attended by thunder, lightning, and torrents of rain. The wind, however, was fair, and brought so much water into the channel of the river, that we pa.s.sed, without obstruction, the shallow parts above Pillage Point. A temporary cessation of the rain at noon enabled us to land to breakfast; and we afterwards continued to scud before the gale until sunset, when we encamped. The temperature fell from 48 degrees to 40 degrees in the gale, and we had several showers of snow.

During the above run Augustus entertained us with an account, which he had learned from the two Esquimaux, respecting the Mountain Indians; the substance was as follows:--Seven men of that tribe had been to Herschel Island to trade with the Esquimaux, who showed them the different articles they had received from us, and informed them of our being still on the coast, and that our return by this route was not improbable. This intelligence they set off at once to communicate to the rest of their tribe, who, supposing that we should ruin their trade with the Esquimaux, resolved on coming down in a body to destroy us; and that they might travel with expedition, their wives and families were left behind. They came to the sea coast by the Mountain Indian River, opposite Herschel Island, and finding that we had not returned, but supposing it possible that we might pa.s.s them there, as they had no canoes to intercept us, they determined on travelling to the mouth of the Mackenzie, where they could conveniently subsist by fis.h.i.+ng and hunting until our arrival. They had been informed of the manner in which we had been robbed by the Esquimaux at that place, and they formed a similar plan of operations. When our crews were wading and launching the boats over the flats in Shoal Water Bay, a few of them were to have offered their a.s.sistance, which they imagined would be readily accepted, as we should probably take them for Indians belonging to the Loucheux tribe, with whom we were acquainted. While pretending to aid us they were to have watched an opportunity of staving the boats, so as to prevent them from floating in the deeper channel, which runs close to the land near Pillage Point. The rest of the party, on a signal being given, were then to rush forth from their concealment, and join in the a.s.sault. They were, in pursuance of this plan, travelling towards the Mackenzie, when they discovered our tents; and it appeared that the two young men who brought us the intelligence, had been sent as an act of grat.i.tude by an old Esquimaux, to whom we had given a knife and some other things, on the preceding day. After hearing the plans of the Indians, he called the young men aside and said to them, "These white people have been kind to us, and they are few in number, why should we suffer them to be killed? You are active young men, run and tell them to depart instantly." The messengers suggested that we had guns, and could defend ourselves. "True," said he, "against a small force, but not against so large a body of Indians as this, who are likewise armed with guns, and who will crawl under cover of the drift timber, so as to surround them before they are aware; run, therefore, and tell them not to lose a moment in getting away, and to be careful to avoid the flats at the mouth of the river by entering the western channel."

As the goods which the Mountain Indians exchange with the Esquimaux at Herschel Island, are very unlike those issued from any of the Hudson's Bay Company's posts, I conclude that they obtain them from the Russians; but the traders of that nation being prohibited by their government from supplying guns to any Indians, I am at a loss to account for these people having them;--perhaps, the prohibition only applies to the Esquimaux, or the people on the sea coast. That the Mountain Indians have fire-arms we learned, not only on the present occasion, but in our first interview with the Esquimaux, at Herschel Island.

The few general remarks which I have to offer, on the subject of a North-West Pa.s.sage, will appear in a subsequent part of the narrative; and here I shall only state, that we traced the coast, westward from the mouth of the Mackenzie, three hundred and seventy-four miles, without having found one harbour in which a s.h.i.+p could find shelter.

[Sidenote: Thursday, 31st.] On the 31st, we continued the ascent of the river, and encamped in the evening within the limit of the spruce fir trees.

[Sidenote: September 1st.] Favoured by a strong north-west gale, on the 1st of September, we sailed the whole day along the western main sh.o.r.e, and, generally, within view of the Rocky Mountains. One of the numerous bends of the river took us within eight miles of part of the mountains, which appeared to be composed of a yellow stone, and was from eight hundred to a thousand feet in height. In the course of the day we came to the most northerly poplars, where the foliage had now a.s.sumed the yellow autumnal hue. [Sidenote: Sat.u.r.day, 2nd.] The gale continued with strong squalls on the 2nd, and we advanced rapidly under double-reefed sails, though the course of the river was very winding. The temperature of the air varied from 41 degrees to 35 degrees. [Sidenote: Sunday, 3rd.] On the third we had calm weather, and still keeping the western land aboard, we were led into a river which we had not discovered in our descent. The course of this river, was, for a time, parallel to our route, and we took it at first for one of the channels of the Mackenzie; but, in the afternoon, we saw a mountain to the eastward, and ascertained that we were to the Southward of Point Separation. We, therefore, began to descend the river again, and encamped shortly after sunset. Just after it became dark, voices were heard on the opposite side of the river, to which we replied, and soon afterwards, three Indians were observed crossing towards us in canoes. They approached cautiously, but on being invited to land, they did so, though one of them was so great a cripple as to require being carried from the canoe to the fire-side. The alarm these poor people had felt, was soon dissipated by kind treatment. They were armed with bows and arrows only, and clothed in hare skins and leather. Their trowsers were similar to those worn by the lower Loucheux, to which tribe they, probably, belonged. We could communicate with them only by signs, except by using a few words of Chipewyan, which one of them appeared to understand. We collected from them that they knew of Fort Good Hope, but none of them seemed to have visited it, as they had not a single article of European manufacture about their persons. They delineated on a stone the course of the Mackenzie, and of the river we had newly discovered, which appears to flow from the Rocky Mountains, and to break through the same ridge of hill that the Mackenzie does at the Narrows. It is probable, that it was to this river the Loucheux alluded, when they told Sir Alexander Mackenzie, opposite the present site of Fort Good Hope, that there was a river which conducted them to the sea in five days. I have distinguished this river by the name of Peel, in honour of His Majesty's Secretary of State for the Home Department. It is from a quarter to half a mile wide, and its banks are clothed with spruce, birch, and poplar trees, like those of the Mackenzie in the same parallel. [Sidenote: Monday, 4th.] We set forward at four A.M. on the 4th, with a strong favourable breeze, and in an hour, pa.s.sed another river descending from the Rocky Mountains, and nearly as large as the Peel, into which it flows. We regained the Mackenzie at noon, and at five P.M. arrived at Point Separation, where we encamped. Here we found the boat, rope, and kettle, in the same state in which we had deposited them. The kettle was a great acquisition to us, because we had suffered much inconvenience in having only one for cooking, after the Esquimaux had robbed us of the others. The temperature varied during the day from 29 degrees to 55 degrees, and, in the evening, the sand flies were troublesome.

[Sidenote: Tuesday, 5th.] We quitted our encampment at day light on the 5th, and crossed the river to look for a mark which Dr. Richardson was to have erected, if he returned by the Mackenzie; but not finding any, we deposited a letter and a bag of pemmican, in case he should come at a later period, and that his party should be in want of provision. In the vicinity of the Red River, we met Barbue, the Chief of the Loucheux, and two or three families, who seemed in a sorry condition from want of food, the water being too low for fis.h.i.+ng. The chief appeared very anxious to communicate some intelligence, which he evidently considered important, but we could not understand him. We learned afterwards at the fort, that it related to the death of a chief by violence on the sea coast; this had given rise to a rumour of the death of myself, and afterwards of Dr. Richardson, which occasioned us, for a time, much anxiety. The weather, on this and several days, was remarkably fine; berries of various kinds were very abundant on the banks, and quite ripe. [Sidenote: Thursday, 7th.] By the aid of the tracking line, with the occasional use of the oars and sails, we proceeded up the river at a quick rate, and reached Fort Good Hope, at half-past four on the 7th. In consequence of the above-mentioned rumour, I requested Mr. Bell, the gentleman in charge of the fort, to despatch two of the Loucheux as quickly as possible to the eastern mouth of the river, in order to gain any information the Esquimaux could give regarding Dr. Richardson's party; and, that the messengers might not be delayed by hunting on the way, I left a bag of pemmican for their use. We were sorry to learn that there was some apprehension of a serious quarrel arising between the upper and lower Loucheux, in consequence of one of Barbue's sons having killed his wife, a woman of the latter tribe.

[Sidenote: Friday, 8th.] We quitted Fort Good Hope at noon on the 8th, arrived at the entrance of Bear Lake River on the 16th, and on the 21st reached Fort Franklin, where we had the happiness of meeting our friends in safety. [Sidenote: Thursday, 21st.] The eastern detachment had arrived on the 1st of September, after a most successful voyage; and Dr.

Richardson being anxious to extend his geological researches, as far as the season would permit, had gone in a canoe to the Great Slave Lake, having previously sent a report of his proceedings, to meet me at Fort Good Hope, in case of our being obliged to return by the Mackenzie; but the bearer of them pa.s.sed us without being seen. Having read Mr.

Kendall's journal, I drew up a brief account of the proceedings of both parties for the information of His Majesty's Government, and transmitted it by canoe, to Slave Lake on the following morning.

The distance travelled in the three months of our absence from Fort Franklin, amounted to two thousand and forty-eight statute miles, of which six hundred and ten were through parts not previously discovered.

I cannot close this account of our sea voyage without expressing the deep obligation I feel to Lieutenant Back for his cordial co-operation, and for his zealous and unwearied a.s.siduity during its progress. Beside the daily delineation of the coast in the field book, the service is indebted to him for numerous drawings of scenery, as well as of the natives; and for an interesting collection of plants. My warmest thanks are likewise due to the men of my party, who met every obstacle with an ardent desire to surmount it, and cheerfully exerted themselves to the utmost of their power. Their cool, steady conduct is the more commendable, as the sea navigation was entirely novel to the whole, except the seamen Duncan and Spinks, and Hallom, the corporal of Marines. The Canadian voyagers, Felix and Vivier, first saw the ocean on this occasion.

The following Chapters contain the narrative of the proceedings of Dr.

Richardson in his own words; and I embrace this opportunity of conveying my sincere thanks to him, to Mr. Kendall, and to their respective crews.

I may be allowed to bear my testimony to the union of caution, talent, and enterprise in the former, which enabled him to conduct, with singular success, an arduous service of a kind so foreign from his profession and ordinary pursuits; and to the science and skill, combined with activity, of Mr. (now Lieutenant) Kendall, which must heighten the character he has already obtained for general ability and energy in his profession. I must not omit to state, that these officers describe the conduct of their crews to have been excellent.

_ABSTRACT of the Mean Temperature for each Day during the Voyage along the Sea Coast west of the Mackenzie, and on the return to Bear Lake._

1826. Daily Date. Mean Wind and Weather. Situation.

---------------------------------------------------------------------- July. degs.

1 52.8 NNW, WNW, moderate, gloomy Fort Good Hope 2 58.3 West, fresh, clear } Mackenzie River, 3 50.3 WNW, fresh, clear } betwn lat. 67 deg.

4 55.8 West, SSW, N, light, gloomy } 28 min., & 60 deg.

5 53.7 SW, NE, moderate, gloomy, foggy } 53 min. N., longitude 6 45.1 NNW, ENE, fresh, moderate, rain } 130-1/2 deg. & 7 41.6 SE, moderate, clear } 136-1/2 deg. W.

8 } Not Mouth of the } regist'd. Mackenzie.

9 } Thermom. ENE, strong, fog and rain 10 } stolen by } Between the 11 } Esquimaux. } Mackenzie & 12 51.6 EbyN. fresh, gloomy } Herschel Isld.

13 53.3 Variable, fog and rain } lat 68 deg. 53 min. & 14 50.5 Calm, rain, ENE, moderate, clear } 60 deg. 34 min. N., 15 48.6 Calm, clear, NW, moderate, foggy } long. 136 deg. 19. min 16 47.3 SSE, moderate, snow, fog } & 139 deg. 5 min. W.

17 44.8 NW, North, moderate, hazy Herschel Island.

18 43.6 NW, moderate, clear } 19 43.4 NW, moderate, heavy rain and fog } 20 39.3 NW, fresh, fog } 21 51.3 East, SE, clear } 22 58.5 SE, light, clear } Between Icy Reef & 23 51.6 West, calm, East, clear } Herschel Island, 24 45.6 Calm, variable, clear } lat.i.tude 69 deg. 34 25 42.0 West, light, calm, foggy } min. & 69 deg. 44 26 44.3 Calm, NW, fog } min. N., longitude 139 27 41.4 West, NW, moderate, fog } deg. 5 min. and 141 28 43.2 ENE, light, gloomy } deg. 30 min. W.

29 41.6 ENE, strong, misty } 30 40.3 ENE, fresh, moderate, clear } 31 42.7 NE, moderate, clear, fresh and } ----- foggy } Mean 47.61 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Aug.

1 42.0 NE, gale, foggy } Between Icy Reef & 2 44.6 ENE, strong, moderate, clear } Flaxman's Island, lat.

3 44.1 ENE, moderate, clear } 69 deg. 44 min. & 70 4 40.7 East, moderate, clear } deg. 11 min. N., long.

5 42.6 Calm, WbyN, moderate } 141 deg. 30 min. & 145 6 43.2 Calm, ESE, light, clear } deg. 50 min. W.

7 42.8 ENE, fresh, clear _} 8 42.9 ENE, strong, fog } 9 41.6 NE, strong, fog } 10 39.5 ENE, strong, fog } Foggy Island, lat.

11 41.1 NE, moderate, fog } 70 deg. 16 min. N.

12 41.1 East, moderate, very foggy } longitude 147 deg.

13 41.6 NE, strong, foggy } 38 min. W.

14 41.3 ENE, NE, moderate, foggy } 15 38.1 NE, fresh, hazy }

_ABSTRACT the Mean Temperature for each Day during the Voyage along the Sea Coast west of the Mackenzie, and on the return to Bear Lake._

1826. Daily Date. Mean Wind and Weather. Situation.

---------------------------------------------------------------------- Aug. degs.

16 35.0 ENE, fresh, foggy } Return Reef, lat.

17 37.4 NE, gale, very foggy } 70 deg. 26 min. N. lg.