Cathedral Cities of England Part 7

The Chapter House is a round building with a stone roof resting on a central pillar, and dates from the Late Norman period.

The Refectory belongs to the Decorated, and the Perpendicular style claims the cloisters. The central tower is just over one hundred and sixty feet in height. As can be seen by the drawing, the plan of the building is a pure cross. There are two transept aisles, and only secondary transepts to the choir exist. A noteworthy circ.u.mstance is that St. Helen's, Worcester, is the earliest recipient of a chantry (1288).

The most interesting memorial in this cathedral is King John's, in the choir, said to be the earliest sepulchral effigy of an English king in the country. In the Chantry Chapel there is an altar-tomb to Arthur, Prince of Wales and son to Henry VII., who died in 1502. John Bauden, bishop, and author of "Icon Basilike," has a monument. Bishop Hough's memory is perpetuated by the work of Roubillac, and that of Mrs. Digby by the sculpture of Chantrey.

To give a detailed account of the history of the city would be long and unnecessary. Suffice it to say that the city continually changed hands during the civil wars. In 1265, in Worcesters.h.i.+re, close upon the frontier of Gloucesters.h.i.+re, was fought the battle of Evesham, in which Henry III.'s son surprised and defeated Earl Simon de Montford, one time a royal favourite. This result put an end to the confederacy of the barons. Cantilupe, the Bishop of Worcester, was implicated in that he favoured the Earl's cause, who had withdrawn previous to the battle, to the friendly territory of Worcester's See, and had rested at Evesham Abbey. Queen Elizabeth and James II. respectively paid the city a short visit.

It suffered extensively by the dissolution of the monasteries. The parliamentary troops foully defiled the Cathedral, and did considerable damage to the city, which was Royalist.

Here it was that Charles II., with his Scottish army, was defeated by Cromwell, who had taken up a position on Red Hill without the city gates. Fortune and disguise helped Charles to escape, and from here he began his adventurous journey to Boscobel. The cathedral city has since increased steadily in prosperity. Besides the Worcester China Company, founded in 1751, and still flouris.h.i.+ng, a Company of Glovers was incorporated in 1661, and is an important industry. These, in addition to hop-growing, help to keep up the trade prosperity of Worcester. The See has enriched the Church of Rome by four saints, and has yielded to the English State several Lord Chancellors and Lord Treasurers.

Chichester

("Doomsday Book.")

In a geographical account of this city it is given as being locally in "the hundred of Box and Stockbridge, _rape_ of Chichester, county of Suss.e.x." The origin of this term "rape," comes from the Icelandic "hreppr," meaning a village or district. From the Icelandic verb, "hreppa," to catch, obtain, arose the Anglo-Saxon rendering--"hrepian, hreppan," to touch. Rape came thus to be one of six divisions of the county of Suss.e.x, possibly by reason of their nearness to each other. It formed the intermediate between the s.h.i.+re and the hundred. A sketch of the s.h.i.+re and the hundred is treated in the description of Wells. After this slight digression, we will immediately enter upon the history of Chichester.

Its foundation dates, with certainty, from the time when England formed a portion of the Roman Empire. About the year 47 A.D., Flavius Vespasian conquered this part of England. He established a camp on the site of the present city, close to the road now known as Stane Street, throwing up an entrenchment three miles long. This is attributed to be the "Regnum" of the Belgae, mentioned in the "Itinerary" of Antonine.

There is no reason to doubt this, if it be borne in mind that, situated almost on the south seaboard of England as Chichester is, it might quite conceivably be expected to be cla.s.sed accidentally as forming a part of the territory of the Belgae, though geographically wrong. The advantage of a site at the foot of a small spur of the South Downs, within easy distance of the sea, though inland, would offer great attractions to the Roman invader.

The early history of England shows us that invasions took effect generally on the south and east coasts of the island. The conquered tribes travelled westwards, retreating before the fierce invader.

Little seems to have been known about the Roman occupation of Chichester till the accidental turning up of a Suss.e.x marble slab on the site of the present council chamber. This discovery took place about the year 1713. From this a little information is gleaned about the Roman buildings. The slab bears a defaced inscription in Latin, the missing letters of which having been supplied, give a conjectural reading. It appears that Chichester was the seat of a British king, Cogidubnus; and that under the auspices of a certain Pudens, a temple of Neptune and Minerva was erected out of compliment to Claudius. The evidence of this stone seems also to have been borne out by Tacitus, who mentions in his writings the existence of Cogidubnus as a native king possessed of independent authority. This king, also, is said to be the father of Claudia, who figures in the Second Epistle to Timothy. The conjectural reading again leads us to suppose that the city was occupied by a large number of craftsmen, who, in fact, were responsible for the erection of the temple mentioned above, besides the walls and other buildings.

During the early Saxon period in the fifth century the city was destroyed by lla. He was succeeded by his son Cissa, who rebuilt it and called it Cissa's Ceaster--Cissa after his own name, and Ceaster in recognition of the Romans having occupied it. The city afterwards became the seat of the South Saxon kings, and remained thus till about the middle of the seventh century. Wulfhere, the Mercian, then invaded it and made Athelwald, its king, prisoner. Upon his conversion to Christianity the king was reinstated. He was afterwards killed in battle by Ceadwalla of Wess.e.x, who conquered the kingdom of the South Saxons.

In 803 Egbert managed to make a union of the several Saxon kingdoms.

This event caused considerable prosperity to Chichester. From ancient penny-pieces discovered, we learn that King Edgar, in the year 967, had established a mint here, thus clearly indicating the importance of the city.

It suffered a terrible decline through the devastations of the Danes; so much so, that scarcely two hundred houses and only one church existed at the time of the Norman Conquest. However, from 1070 the fortunes of the city began to mend rapidly. This wholesome change was caused primarily by the removal of the See from Selsea, where it had remained for over three hundred years, to Chichester. As first bishop of Chichester, Stigand, the chaplain to William the Conqueror, was appointed. In the reign of Henry I. a cathedral was built and consecrated by Bishop Ralph.

It was soon destroyed by fire. On its site the same prelate erected a second structure of far greater magnificence, a considerable portion of which is still extant.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CHICHESTER

FROM THE NORTHEAST]

In 1189 the city again suffered from a terrible fire, which also caused great damage to the Cathedral. This building, however, was repaired and greatly enlarged by Bishop Siffed. His efforts, with those of Ralph, form the basis of the present cathedral. It was dedicated to St. Peter.

The architecture embraces the Norman and the Early English and Decorated styles.

A beautiful tower arose from the centre, surmounted by an octagonal spire three hundred feet high, with two towers on the west, of which the upper courses of one were destroyed during the parliamentary war. On the north is seen a fine bell-tower and lantern, connected by flying b.u.t.tresses with octagonal turrets springing from the angles.

In the reign of Charles I., after a stubborn defence by the Royalist citizens, the city was compelled to surrender to Cromwell's troops. In the course of this reign the north-west tower was battered down, and in 1648 Cromwell ordered the destruction of the cathedral cloisters, the Bishop's Palace, the Deanery, and the Canons' houses. The Bishop's Palace was repaired in 1725, and contains a chapel built in the thirteenth century. A general and great restoration of the Cathedral was commenced in 1830, but in spite of every precaution the tower and spire fell down in 1861. Under the guidance of Sir Gilbert Scott the necessary repairs were undertaken. The cloisters were restored about the year 1890.

Besides his grand contribution to the church's architecture, Storey's memory is perpetuated by the very fine octagonal cross in the Decorated English style. It stands fifty feet high, in the centre of the town, from which the four princ.i.p.al streets run out at right angles towards the country. These streets, in olden days, led to four gates in the embattled walls which surrounded the city. The last of these gates was taken down in 1773. Besides the cross, Storey founded in 1497 the Grammar School, where Archbishop Juxon, the learned Seldon, the poet Collins, and Dr. Hurdis, Professor of Poetry at the University of Oxford, received their elementary education.

Amongst other schools founded was one by Oliver Whitby, in 1702, to afford free nautical education to twelve boys; namely, four from Chichester, and four from each of the villages of West Wettering and Harting. Though Chichester is connected by a short ca.n.a.l with the sea, and a certain amount of s.h.i.+pping is done, it can hardly be considered as an important port. It lies fourteen miles north-east of England's greatest naval port, Portsmouth. Curiously enough, Chichester is only five miles south of Goodwood, the famous city for horse-races.

The munic.i.p.al and parliamentary borough of Chichester, incorporated as city in the year 1213, is almost surrounded by a small stream called the Lavant, and is pleasantly situated at the end of a small spur of the South Down Hills. It is considered as one of the princ.i.p.al cattle markets in the South of England. Accommodation for several thousands of cattle was arranged in 1871 by the Corporation.

There are also the Guildhall, which was formerly the chapel of a convent of Grey Friars; the corn-exchange, the market-house, museum, and infirmary.

Bradwardine and Juxon, both archbishops of Canterbury; Lawrence Somercote, a great canonist and writer; the poets Collins and Hayley, whose memory has been perpetuated by a tablet designed by Flaxman in the Cathedral, were all born in this city. The Diocese of Chichester covers nearly the whole extent of Suss.e.x.

In conclusion we would draw the attention to the quaint design on the Bishop's armorial s.h.i.+eld. It depicts the curious device of a mitred prelate holding a sword in his mouth. He is seated, presumably, on a throne, which much resembles a square block of marble, looked at perspectively. Perhaps it is meant for the Holy Stone. Both the Bishop's arms are outstretched. In his left hand an open book is held, whilst his right is palm upwards. Why the Bishop holds the sword in his mouth, when his right hand is free, it is hard to say. Possibly the arms were first drawn up for a warlike bishop, or it may mean that the sword is the sword of Justice. In all probability the correct meaning is conveyed by the twelfth verse in Hebrews iv., wherein it sets forth that the sword in the Bishop's mouth is symbolical of "The Word of the Lord,"

which is "sharper than any two-edged sword," and the Book of the Law is in his left hand, whilst the right hand is extended in blessing or in supplicating prayer.

Chester

Cestre.

("Doomsday Book.")

This famous place occupies a singular position. It is a city and county of itself, a munic.i.p.al county since 1888, and a parliamentary borough, besides being an episcopal city, a seaport, and county town of Ches.h.i.+re.

Chester is also the capital of the county of Ches.h.i.+re. It is situated on a rocky elevation, on the north bank of the River Dee, by which the city is partly encircled. Just seventeen miles north of it lies the great manufacturing and seaport town of Liverpool. At one time Chester was a palatine city, enjoying all the privileges peculiar to that dignity.

This practically conferred independent authority on a city far situated from the Metropolis. The head of the city was a little king, and enjoyed discretionary power. In a brief sketch of this, in the account of Durham, is clearly shown the mutual advantages accruing, especially in cases of emergency, such as incursions of the enemy, to both the city thus honoured and the Metropolis London.

The geographical position of Chester in the extreme west of England, and its proximity to the restless Welsh, demanded some such power to cope, at a moment's notice, with any unexpected event from that quarter. This nearness to Wales contributed in a great measure to the importance of this city, as will be presently shown.

The earliest authentic history of Chester ascribes its origin to the British tribe called the Cornavii. At the time of the Roman invasion they inhabited that part of England which now is known as the counties of Chester, Salop, Stafford, Warwick, and Worcester.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CHESTER

EASTGATE STREET]

The city they called Cr Leon Vawr--City of Leon the Great. This name is supposed to have been given out of compliment to Leon, son of Brut Darien, the eighth king of Britain. By some historians this origin is contested. They say that this Welsh name of Cr Leon Vawr indicated the "city or camp of the Great Legion." They also supply "Cr Leon,"

or "Dwfyr Dwy," and render their meaning into "the city of the Legion on the Dee," from its connection with that people. The city was also called Deunana and Deva, after the same river. However, it is conclusively proved that here the Twentieth Roman Legion established a station after the defeat of Caractacus, who, after having made a mighty effort to withstand this second invasion of England by the Romans, was taken prisoner. He and his wife and family were taken to Rome, and, according to custom, were paraded through the streets for the benefit of the public, but afterwards honourably treated. This second occupation of England lasted from 43 A.D. till the Romans finally departed in 446 A.

D. The first was a short stay by Julius Caesar in B.C., some ninety-seven years previous. In 46 A.D., within three years of the landing of the Romans, Chester was established as a Roman camp, during the reign of Claudius, the Roman Emperor.

From the disposition of the four princ.i.p.al streets,--Northgate Street, Eastgate Street, Bridge Street, and Westgate Street, together with the walls surrounding the city, and the selection of a rocky site on the bank of a fair-sized river, Chester gives a good ill.u.s.tration of the principles upon which the Romans went to work. From a determined centre these roads run out to their respective gates in the boundary walls, in the direction of the four cardinal points. The walls of this city are the only ones in England that are perfect in their entire circuit of two miles, though the gateways have all been rebuilt within the last hundred years. On the departure of the Roman soldiery, England reverted to the Britons, who appeared to have been helpless, so long had they relied upon their late conquerors for protection. From them Chester was taken by Ethelfrith, King of Northumbria, who defeated them under the King of Powysland in 607. The Britons, however, regained possession and maintained it till 828, when Egbert, who was then the sole monarch of England, annexed it to his possessions. The Saxons, during their occupation of the city, named it Legancaester and Legecester.

The Danes, in the ninth century, caused severe damages. On their retreat Ethelfreda, Countess of Mercia, repaired the walls. On her death the Britons once more became the city's masters, but were driven out again by Edward the Elder. Athelstan, it is said, revived its mint. About the year 972 Edgar a.s.sembled a naval force on the river Dee. To demonstrate his supremacy he caused himself to be rowed by eight tributary kings from his palace on the south bank of the river to the Convent Church of St. John's. To increase the desired effect, we are told that he took the helm,--the symbol of government.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CHESTER

THE ROWS]

On the division of England, in 1016, between Canute and Edmund Ironside, Canute gained possession of Mercia, in which were included Chester and Northumbria. Chester remained as a city of Mercia, governed by its earl, till the Norman Conquest. William then bestowed it with the earldom on his nephew Hugh Lupus. He was, in view of the proximity of Wales, invested with sovereign or palatine authority over the tract of country now represented by the county of Ches.h.i.+re and the coast-line of Flints.h.i.+re as far as Rhuddlan. Chester was made the seat of his government.

At that time it is described in "Doomsday Book" as Cestre, and as possessing four hundred and thirty-one houses within its walls. For over two centuries after the Conquest this city formed an important military station for the defence of the English border against the Welsh. The Norman Earl Ranulph I. granted the first charter, though its purport proves that Chester already enjoyed certain munic.i.p.al rights. On account of its garrison it was frequently visited by reigning monarchs.