The Art of Perfumery Part 5

EAU DE BOTOT.

Tincture of cedar wood, 1 pint.

" myrrh, 1 oz.

Oil of peppermint, 1/2 dr.

" spear mint, 1/4 dr.

" cloves, 10 drops.

" roses, 10 "

Modifications of this formula can be readily suggested, but the main object is to retain the mint ottos, as they have more power than any other aromatic to overcome the smell of tobacco. Mouth-washes, it must be remembered, are as much used for rinsing the mouth after smoking as for a dentifrice.

MYRTLE.--A very fragrant otto may be procured by distilling both flowers and leaves of the common myrtle; one hundred-weight will yield about five ounces of the volatile oil. The demand for essence of myrtle being very limited, the odor as found in the perfumers' shops is very rarely a genuine article, but it is imitated thus:--

IMITATION ESSENCE OF MYRTLE.

Extract of vanilla, 1/2 pint.

" roses 1 "

Extract of fleur d'orange, 1/2 pint.

" tubereuse, 1/2 "

" jasmine, 2 oz.

Mix and allow to stand for a fortnight: it is then fit for bottling, and is a perfume that gives a great deal of satisfaction.

Myrtle-flower water is sold in France under the name of eau d'ange, and may be prepared like rose, elder, or other flower waters.

NEROLI, OR ORANGE-FLOWER.--Two distinct odors are procurable from the orange-blossom, varying according to the methods adopted for procuring them. This difference of perfume from the same flower is a great advantage to the manufacturer. This curious fact is worthy of inquiry by the chemical philosopher. It is not peculiar to the orange-flower, but applies to many others, especially rose--probably to all flowers.

When orange-flowers are treated by the maceration process, that is, by infusion in a fatty body, we procure orange-flower pomatum, its strength and quality being regulated by the number of infusions of the flower made in the same grease.

By digesting this orange-flower pomatum in rectified spirits in the proportions of from six pounds to eight pounds of pomade to a gallon of spirit, for about a fortnight at a summer heat, we obtain the extrait de fleur d'orange, or extract of orange-flowers, a handkerchief perfume surpa.s.sed by none. In this state its odor resembles the original so much, that with closed eyes the best judge could not distinguish the scent of the extract from that of the flower. The peculiar flowery odor of this extract renders it valuable to perfumers, not only to sell in a pure state, but slightly modified with other _extraits_ pa.s.ses for "sweet pea," "magnolia," &c., which it slightly resembles in fragrance.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Orange.]

Now, when orange-flowers are distilled with water, we procure the otto of the blossom, which is known commercially as oil of neroli. The neroli procured from the flowers of the Citrus aurantium is considered to be the finest quality, and is called "neroli petale." The next quality, "neroli bigarade," is derived from the blossoms of the _Citrus bigaradia_, or Seville orange. Another quality, which is considered inferior to the preceding, is the neroli pet.i.t grain, obtained by distilling the leaves and the young unripe fruit of the different species of the citrus.

The "petale" and "bigarade" neroli are used to an enormous extent in the manufacture of eau de Cologne and other handkerchief perfumes. The pet.i.t grain is mainly consumed for scenting soap. To form the esprit de neroli, dissolve 1-1/2 oz. of neroli petale in one gallon of rectified spirits. Although very agreeable, and extensively used in the manufacture of bouquets, it has no relation to the flowery odor of the extrait de fleur d'orange, as derived from the same flowers by maceration; in fact, it has as different an odor as though obtained from another plant, yet in theory both these _extraits_ are but alcoholic solutions of the otto of the flower.

The water used for distillation in procuring the neroli, when well freed from the oil, is imported into this country under the name of eau de fleur d'orange, and may be used, like elder-flower and rose-water, for the skin, and as an eye lotion. It is remarkable for its fine fragrance, and it is astonis.h.i.+ng that it is not more used, being moderate in price.

(See _Syringa_.)

NUTMEG.--The beautiful odor of the nutmeg is familiar to all.

Though an otto can be drawn from them of a very fragrant character, it is rarely used in perfumery. The ground nuts are, however, used advantageously in the combinations of scented powders used for scent bags.--See "Sachet's Powders."

OLIBANUM is a gum resin, used to a limited extent in this country, in the manufacture of incense and pastilles. It is chiefly interesting as being one of those odoriferous bodies of which frequent mention is made in the Holy volume.[C]

"It is believed," says Burnett, "to have been one of the ingredients in the sweet incense of the Jews; and it is still burnt as incense in the Greek and Romish churches, where the diffusion of such odors round the altar forms a part of the prescribed religious service."

Olibanum is partially soluble in alcohol, and, like most of the balsams, probably owes its perfume to a peculiar odoriferous body, a.s.sociated with the benzoic acid it contains.

For making the tincture or extract of olibanum, take 1 pound of the gum to 1 gallon of the spirit.

ORANGE.--Under the t.i.tle "Neroli" we have already spoken of the odoriferous principle of the orange-blossom. We have now to speak of what is known in the market as Essence of Orange, or, as it is more frequently termed, Essence of Portugal,--a name, however, which we cannot admit in a cla.s.sified list of the "odors of plants."

The otto of orange-peel, or odoriferous principle of the orange fruit, is procured by expression and by distillation. The peel is rasped in order to crush the little vessels or sacs that imprison the otto.

Its abundance in the peel is shown by pinching a piece near the flame of a candle; the otto that spirts out ignites with a brilliant illumination.

It has many uses in perfumery, and from its refres.h.i.+ng fragrance finds many admirers.

It is the leading ingredient in what is sold as "Lisbon Water" and "Eau de Portugal." The following is a very useful form for preparing

LISBON WATER.

Rectified spirit (not less than 60 over proof), 1 gallon.

Otto of orange peel, 3 oz.

" lemon peel, 3 oz.

" rose 1/4 oz.

This is a form for

EAU DE PORTUGAL.

Rectified spirit (60 over proof), 1 gallon.

Essential oil of orange peel, 6 oz.

" lemon peel, 1 oz.

" lemon gra.s.s, 1/4 oz.

" bergamot, 1 oz.

" otto of rose, 1/4 oz.

It should be noted that these perfumes are never to be filled into wet bottles, for if in any way damp from water, a minute portion of the ottos are separated, which gives an opalescent appearance to the mixture. Indeed, all bottles should be _spirit rinsed_ prior to being filled with any perfume, but especially with those containing essences of orange or lemon peel.

ORRIS, properly IRIS.--The dried rhizome of _Iris florentina_ has a very pleasant odor, which, for the want of a better comparison, is said to resemble the smell of violets; it is, however, exceedingly derogatory to the charming aroma of that modest flower when such invidious comparisons are made. Nevertheless the perfume of iris root is good, and well worthy of the place it has obtained as a perfuming substance. The powder of orris root is very extensively used in the manufacture of sachet powders, tooth-powder, &c. It fathers that celebrated "oriental herb" known as "Odonto." For tincture of orris, or, as the perfumers call it,

EXTRACT OF ORRIS,

Take orris root, crushed, 7 lbs.

Rectified spirits, 1 gallon.

After standing together for about a fortnight, the extract is fit to take off. It requires considerable time to drain away, and, to prevent loss, the remainder of the orris should be placed in the tincture press.

This extract enters into the composition of many of the most celebrated bouquets, such as "Jockey Club," and others, but is never sold alone, because its odor, although grateful, is not sufficiently good to stand public opinion upon its own merits; but in combination its value is very great; possessing little aroma itself, yet it has the power of strengthening the odor of other fragrant bodies; like the flint and steel, which though comparatively incombustible, readily fire inflammable bodies.

PALM.--The odor of palm oil--the fat oil of commerce--is due to a fragrant principle which it contains. By infusion in alcohol, the odoriferous body is dissolved, and resembles, to a certain extent, the tincture of orris, or of extract of violet, but is very indifferent, and is not likely to be brought into use, though several attempts have been made to render it of service when the cultivation of the violets have failed from bad seasons.

PATCHOULY.--_Pogostemon patchouly_ (LINDLEY), _Plectranthus cra.s.sifolius_ (BURNETT), is an herb that grows extensively in India and China. It somewhat resembles our garden sage in its growth and form, but the leaves are not so fleshy.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Patchouly.]

The odor of patchouly is due to an otto contained in the leaves and stems, and is readily procured by distillation. 1 cwt. of good herb will yield about 28 oz. of the essential oil, which is of a dark brown color, and of a density about the same as that of oil of sandal wood, which it resembles in its physical character. Its odor is the most powerful of any derived from the botanic kingdom; hence, if mixed in the proportion of measure for measure, it completely covers the smell of all other bodies.

EXTRACT OF PATCHOULY.