Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara Volume I Part 4

This remarkable promontory, which in our days has obtained so much political importance, the Calpe of the ancients, const.i.tuted of old, with the opposite Abyla,[7] the so-called pillars of Hercules, celebrated, at the same time, as the boundary of the then-known world. It derives its name from the corrupted Arabic _Gebel_ (mountain) and _Tarik_, the name of a Moorish conqueror, who had pitched his camp here (A.D. 711). Like a colossal giant, guarding the portal of Europe, and converted, by the energy and ingenuity of the British, into an almost impregnable outpost, this precipitous rock has, as regards the Mediterranean, the same high strategic importance for that great maritime people, as Heligoland for the German Ocean, Aden for the Red Sea, Ceylon and Singapore for the Indian Archipelago, Hongkong for the Chinese waters, or the Cape and St. Helena for the Atlantic Ocean.

[Footnote 7: The present Apes Hill.]

Gibraltar was already strongly fortified, when it belonged to the Andalusian kingdom, but its grandest fortifications date from the treaty of Utrecht (1713), when it became an appanage of the British crown.

Stupendous and incomparable are the works which since that period have been executed on it, though the calcareous formation of the locality and its numerous caves may have considerably facilitated their construction.

The English authorities, who so kindly a.s.sisted in the scientific researches, obligingly furnished each individual of the frigate's staff with a written permission to inspect the fortifications as often as they pleased, and thereby afforded them the particular gratification of being able to view and admire these vast structures in all their details.

Excellent and well-kept roads lead to the princ.i.p.al fortifications, which only begin at an elevation of several hundred feet above the town. The galleries, hewn in the solid rock, forming a kind of casemates, are of such breadth and height that they may be conveniently traversed by a man on horseback with his hat on. They have been constructed at an immense expense of labour and money, and are designated by various names, as "Upper gallery," "Lower gallery," "Queen's gallery," "St. George's Hall,"

and so on. Their extent is estimated at an English mile, but is probably much greater. Besides these galleries, pa.s.sages run for miles in the interior of the rock, affording the garrison a thoroughly-protected connection with all points that may chance to be threatened.

The grandest and most imposing of these marvellous excavations are the "Queen's gallery" and "St. George's Hall." According to carved inscriptions, most of them were begun and completed between the years 1783 and 1789. At the period of our visit, there were mounted on the different fortifications 707 guns, about one hundred of which peeped out of the smaller embrasures. Since that date, however, the number is said to have been increased so as to amount now to about 1500.

During the stay of the _Novara_, it fortunately happened that the birthday of Queen Victoria was celebrated, and thus an opportunity was offered of seeing the fiery mountain in full activity. Though the occasion was peaceable, yet the imposing spectacle gave a tolerable idea of the elements of destruction which Gibraltar could put in action if really attacked. The governor of the fortress, surrounded by a brilliant staff, in which the Spanish governor of Algeziras and his officers played but a sorry part, reviewed the garrison, consisting of infantry, cavalry, and artillery, to the number of from 5000 to 6000 men; and whilst the troops defiled in slow and quick step, lightnings and thunders issued from all the crevices and embrasures of the artificially-perforated rock; huge volumes of dense smoke followed, and a rolling subterraneous rumbling gave the mountain exactly the character of a volcano suddenly burst into action. The echo of these salvoes of rejoicing must have been heard, not only in the adjacent parts of Spain, but also on the more remote coast of Africa; and he who was ignorant of the real cause, might have supposed it a grand rehearsal of that fearful tragedy which the English seem determined to perform in the event of an attack. The supposition, however, that the guns of Gibraltar are able entirely to command the Straits is erroneous, for these, at their narrowest part, are 12-1/2 miles wide, and not even the Armstrong guns, with which the fortress has lately been furnished, have so extensive a range. The English are, however, able to command the Straits by a fleet, which would find in the Bay of Gibraltar a sufficiently safe and roomy anchorage.

From the fortifications, a narrow and rather steep path leads to the telegraph station, at an elevation of 1300 feet above the level of the sea. Steamers and men-of-war, as soon as visible, are signalled from this point by means of immense b.a.l.l.s and flags. It would be very difficult to signal merchantmen in the same way, as, during a prevailing westerly wind, mult.i.tudes of s.h.i.+ps often appear to the eastward of the rock, anxiously waiting for a favourable easterly breeze to carry them through the Straits; in the same way the westerly horizon is sometimes crowded with s.h.i.+ps, prevented by contrary winds from entering the Mediterranean.

We found at the station an Aneroid-barometer, and a thermometer. The advantages for navigation and physical science of extensive meteorological observations, regularly made, are so evident, that it is astonis.h.i.+ng to see how often opportunities are neglected for making them, such as are offered here.

There was no opportunity for seeing any of those families of monkeys, the occasional appearance of which on the Rock of Gibraltar has given rise to tales found in books of travel of the existence of a submarine communication, through which this single representative of the genus in Europe has found its way to this rock from Africa. Sometimes, however, during easterly winds, single individuals are observed on the highest peaks on the eastern side of the rock, where it is completely inaccessible; probably the remnants of that species (_Inuus ecaudatus_), which at some former time, either by chance, or human agency, have found their way hither from the Moorish coast.

The calcareous caves are very remarkable. That on the western side, called St. Michael's, situated at a height of 800 feet, is the most important. It contains beautiful stalact.i.te formations, and seems to be of considerable extent; it has, however, not been closely examined hitherto, as only a small part is conveniently accessible. St. Martin's Cave, on the south-east, likewise about 800 feet above the level of the sea, is smaller, but its stalact.i.tes are of a purer whiteness. A third was discovered a few years since on the eastern side of the rock at a height of only 80 feet, the lower portion of which consists of acc.u.mulations of sand and recent sh.e.l.ls. There have also been found bones and teeth of large herbivorous animals.

[Ill.u.s.tration: ROCK CAVERN IN GIBRALTAR.]

The characteristic vegetation of the mountain is Spanish broom (_Spartium junceum_), the yellow blossom of which strikes the eye pleasingly at a great distance. There is also one species of cactus, and one of the dwarf palm (_Opuntia vulgaris_, and _Chamaerops humilis_), which grows in great abundance, and forms, on the south face of the rock, almost the only vegetation, whilst, on account of difference of temperature, it is altogether absent on the remaining sides.

Gibraltar has little to attract strangers to settle; barracks, military store-houses, and fortifications, render the appearance of the place peculiarly monotonous, the more so that there are no elegant buildings, or fine shops, on the rock. There was nothing observed, however, to confirm the statement, in a celebrated geographical work, copied by all later compilers, that "most of the houses are painted black, to soften the glare of the sun, and prevent an attacking enemy having a distinct view of the place." The town, which is built in terraces on the side of the rock, is accessible only from three points. The greatest portion of the traffic pa.s.ses through the so-called Old Mole at the north end, whilst the entrances on the south are generally used by men-of-war sailors only. All are opened at 5 in the morning, and, according to the season, shut between 7 and 8 in the evening, precisely twenty-five minutes after the first signal-gun. This closing of the gate is attended with ceremonies verging on the comic. A broad-shouldered corporal, carrying in his hand a heavy bunch of immense keys, marches, visibly impressed with the importance of his mission, in measured steps, accompanied by a number of red jackets with fixed bayonets, towards the ma.s.sive town-gate; the bridge is then, with much ado, drawn up, and the horribly-creaking gate, with great exertion, closed, bolted, and finally locked. After "gun fire" no one can leave the town by the Old Mole; at 10 P.M., however, and at midnight, a little postern is opened, through which those jolly stragglers, who have forgotten in merry company the measure of time, may slip out to return to their floating abodes. From this hour till morning all communication with the harbour is arrested, and the utter impossibility (except in extraordinary cases) of leaving the town _after_ this hour, has given rise amongst the people to the saying, "There is only _one_ thing more difficult than to get _out_ of the town after midnight, and that is to get _in_."

There are in the city two Anglican churches, one Wesleyan, one Presbyterian, two Catholic chapels, and two synagogues. The garrison library, where likewise a great number of journals and magazines are kept, possesses 22,000 volumes, amongst them several very rare and costly works, especially of ancient Spanish literature. It was founded in 1793 by Captain Drinkwater, and has been hitherto kept up by private subscriptions and the profits arising from a printing-establishment attached to it.

Gibraltar owes to the energy and public spirit of the governor, Sir James Fergusson, the foundation of several important establishments and undertakings. Since the beginning of his administration in 1856, the number of public schools has been considerably increased, the town supplied with gas, and well-arranged public baths established.

The city does not possess a single well or spring; the water used is obtained from tanks, in which the rain is collected. The quant.i.ty of rain that fell during the twelve months of 1855 amounted to 78 inches; in 1856, it is said to have been only 24 inches. Nevertheless, there is at no time any scarcity of water. The Government have lately caused the erection of a distilling apparatus for making sea-water fit for domestic purposes, which, however, hitherto has not been used.

The population of Gibraltar, including the garrison of 6000 men, amounts to about 20,000 souls, consisting of Spaniards, English, Italians (mostly Genoese), Portuguese, Moors, Turks, Greeks, and Jews; indeed, a mixture of races, customs, and manners such as scarcely can be found at any other place in Europe. The native residents call Gibraltar briefly _the rock_, and themselves, with a kind of pseudo-patriotism, _rock people_, though by the officers of the garrison and navy generally complimented with the name of "rock-scorpions."

The permanent settling of foreigners, in consequence of its being a fortress, requires a number of formalities, which have the effect of limiting the population; and even the English portion must be considered migratory, as it consists chiefly of military and government officers, who, after the lapse of certain intervals, exchange in regular order.

The only really beautiful walk in the place is Elliott's Gardens, situated at the south end of the town, laid out in a grand style, but disfigured by a tasteless bronze statue of General Elliott (afterwards Lord Heathfield), the heroic defender of Gibraltar in 1782. In the evenings, when one of the military bands is performing, the grounds are thronged by visitors on foot, horseback, and in carriages, whilst loving couples, of all races and grades, ramble in happy union through the shady avenues.

Near the gardens, towards the south, is a second quarter of the city, which mostly consists of government buildings. On the lowest terrace, which juts furthest into the sea, stands the lighthouse, on the celebrated "Europa Point."

[Ill.u.s.tration: SOUTH GATE, GIBRALTAR.]

Gibraltar is connected with the Spanish continent by a sandy neck of land, called by the Spaniards _El Istmo_, and by the English "the neutral ground." It runs between the Mediterranean and the bay, one mile and a half in length and 2700 feet in breadth. This plain, which is not more than 10 feet above the water, owes its origin to the formation of a dune in the rocky bed of the ocean. Strong easterly gales seem by degrees to have acc.u.mulated the sand on this shallow run of the sea, which formerly separated Gibraltar from Spain.

A similar sand formation, near Catalan Bay, has attained the enormous height of 1000 feet. The Government have caused a portion of the sand, at the point where the isthmus joins the rock, to be excavated, and the water of the bay to be let in, so that there only remains a narrow low d.y.k.e of firm ground, which probably in time of war may be completely submerged.

The stagnant water of this cut must, however, during the hot season, considerably increase the amount of fever.

From May till October the troops are encamped under tents on this isthmus, along which the neighbouring Spaniards come to market daily in crowds, with provisions of all kinds, displaying their rancour against the foreign intruders by endeavouring to make them pay the highest possible price for their produce.

The adjacent Spanish settlements, Campamiento and St. Roque, are much resorted to by excursionists from Gibraltar, and, during the summer, are selected by numerous families for even a longer stay; for however little pleasure or interest a ride over this arid and sandy plain affords, once arrived at Campamiento, the rider enjoys a most charming prospect, while there is probably no other point from which the isolated rock appears more grand or picturesque than from this neat little village.

In following the road that runs from Campamiento along the bay, the charming little town of Algeziras is reached. It lies on the western sh.o.r.e, exactly opposite Gibraltar, with which it is in regular correspondence by daily steamers.

Algeziras, formerly a poor fis.h.i.+ng-village, has greatly increased in extent and prosperity, through the smuggling trade. This clean and pretty-looking place has a population of 10,000 souls, and makes by contrast an extremely pleasant impression on coming from the dismal and gloomy fortress. Men and things here have quite an Andalusian appearance.

The small but neat one-storied houses are mostly painted a bright white, and ornamented with green verandahs; at almost every window beautiful flowers are exhibited; and the public promenade, shaded by fine trees, is delightful. The princ.i.p.al square is likewise planted with trees, and the lower stories of its houses are occupied by apothecaries' shops, coffee-rooms, confectioners, and one by a bookseller even. The churches appear in every respect insignificant; the hospital of San Juan de Dios, however, is an ancient and n.o.ble structure, the management of which is admirable. One of the arrangements here was eminently characteristic of Spain: in the ward for male patients stands at the upper end, by the side of the beds for common patients, a large, broad, elegantly-polished bedstead, which, the porter told us, was intended for "_caballeros_."

At a short distance from the town is the Amphitheatre Constantia, a large wooden booth, said to hold nearly 9000 spectators. It is chiefly used for bull-fights, which always attract a large audience. The aqueduct here, taken with the fine scenery around, forms an exceedingly picturesque object.

The inhabitants of Gibraltar sometimes make excursions to the peninsula of Ceuta (the Sebta of the Moors), situated on the opposite coast of Africa.

The lighthouse of this little promontory has been lately furnished with a Fresnel apparatus, throwing out a most intense light, which is visible at a greater distance than any other observed during our voyage. This place, which is used by the Spaniards as a penal settlement, numbers 6500 inhabitants, and has a very indifferent harbour. The "rock people" also occasionally make excursions to Tangier, the most westerly town of the strait, and the most important as regards the commerce of Morocco.

A great number of steamers on their various routes touch at Gibraltar, for discharging and embarking freight and pa.s.sengers, and to coal. The quant.i.ty of the latter thus s.h.i.+pped is estimated at 30,000 tons annually, all imported from England. There is also a regular correspondence by sailing vessels with all the leading Italian ports, and those of the Levant, as well as with Constantinople, Corfu, and Trieste.

Gibraltar being a free port, there are no customs' dues, except those on wines and spirits. All flags enjoy equal privileges, and in all disputes the English law decides. It is impossible to obtain a satisfactory statement of the amount of imports and exports, as no Custom-house exists, and the official reports merely give the number and nationality of the flags of the s.h.i.+ps that arrive and depart. Smuggling is carried on to a great extent, and, being a lucrative trade, will continue to be so, as long as Spain retains her prohibitory duties on English goods.

The princ.i.p.al items of commerce in Gibraltar are English cotton goods, which are exported to Barbary in considerable quant.i.ties. To compete successfully with the English in this branch of trade would be very difficult for any other nation; but there are a great number of other articles which might find a ready sale on the African coast, and which are produced cheaper in several States of the European continent than in England; a consideration of so much the more importance in trading with the Moors, that these people regard lowness of price rather than the quality of the goods.

For this very reason, small but industrious Belgium has become a powerful compet.i.tor of mighty England. Thus, for instance, that country exports to Morocco, by way of Gibraltar, sugar, both in loaves and crushed,[8]

hardware and cutlery, nails and screws, zinc, as well as all sorts of earthenware and gla.s.s. A portion of these articles goes into the neighbouring Spanish provinces.

[Footnote 8: The superior quality and cheapness of Belgian sugars have of late in a great measure driven all others out of the market. It is also worthy of remark, that though Gibraltar is a British colony, all the accounts are kept in Spanish currency, and that there are more Spanish and French coins in circulation than English, which, when changed, even sustain a small loss. The Spanish measures and weights also are more in use than the English.]

It is rather singular that the Belgian gla.s.s goods are in Gibraltar represented as of _German_ manufacture, and thereby obtain a readier sale.

This seems to be a proof that German (_i. e._ Bohemian) gla.s.s articles have been patronized before the Belgian, and lost the market only through the importation of the latter.

The intercourse between Gibraltar and Spain is carried on by coasting vessels, and by French as well as Spanish steamers, while the postal communication with Great Britain is conducted by the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Packet Company.

Correspondence with Spain and other parts of the Continent is carried on overland, but is little to be relied upon, as, owing to the horrible condition of the Spanish roads, a delay of from six to eight days sometimes occurs in bad weather. Between Gibraltar and Cadiz, a distance of only sixty English miles, the letter-bag is said to have often been six days on its way.

The narrative of our stay at Gibraltar would be defective if we omitted mention of the numerous proofs of hospitality we experienced on all sides.

Invitations were repeatedly received from the Convent (Government House), as well as from private families, and everywhere we experienced the most cordial reception.

We must in particular mention a visit paid to Captain Warden, the superintendent of the station and a.r.s.enal, as it afforded an opportunity of becoming acquainted with a feature in the English naval service, as practical as it is worthy of imitation. The superintendent of the a.r.s.enal inhabits a beautiful roomy house, belonging to the Government, situated in a large garden, well planted with splendid plane-trees, laurel, and orange-trees, and ornamented with most beautiful and odoriferous flowers.

As a superintendent's income would not admit the outlay necessary properly to furnish so large an edifice, this is done by contractors, who let out the furniture at the rate of five per cent. annually on the value. This sum is deducted monthly from the pay. The same system is also adopted on board English men-of-war. The cabins of the officers are there furnished and provided with all the requisite comforts by contractors under the superintendence of the Admiralty. The value of each article is marked in a printed list deposited with the authorities. The captain pays a yearly rate of five per cent. on the valuation, and binds himself besides, in the event of the s.h.i.+p's being paid off, or of being appointed to another vessel, to return in good condition all the articles specified, and pay the value noted in the list for everything missing. This agreement is registered at the Admiralty, and the contractor receives the amount monthly. The advantage of such an arrangement to the commander of a s.h.i.+p will be more fully appreciated by those who, from personal experience, are aware of the expense attending an outfit, and the great loss which an officer transferred from one s.h.i.+p to another suffers through a sudden and forced sale of his property. The commander of a s.h.i.+p is moreover often not in a condition to spend for his personal outfit a sum of perhaps a thousand pounds sterling, but he can conveniently pay annually from 40 to 50 for the hire in monthly instalments; and it thus becomes easier for him to maintain the appearance due to his position.

The commander and officers of the _Caroline_, which, after an absence since the 12th of May, had rejoined us on the 23rd, were, like ourselves, received in the kindest manner by all the authorities of Gibraltar.

It had been arranged that we should make the voyage to Madeira in company with the _Caroline_, but an unexpected incident prevented it. The small-pox[9] made its appearance on board, and although in a mild form and in but a few cases, yet it was sufficiently alarming to interrupt, as a matter of precaution, all communication, and to postpone indefinitely her departure, as a great part of the crew might be overtaken with the disease whilst at sea, exposed to sudden changes of temperature, thereby causing the most serious consequences. Such is not the case with diseases which are in some degree localized, as cholera, yellow fever, dysentery, &c., when it is even prudent to set sail, notwithstanding the presence of the malady, as a change of place and climate is frequently accompanied with beneficial results.

[Footnote 9: As there has lately been some difference amongst the medical men of Europe as to the utility of vaccination, the following observations from the report of Dr. Wawra, the princ.i.p.al physician on board the _Caroline_, regarding the appearance and the course of this epidemic, may not be out of place:--"A day before our departure from Trieste a man complained of a slight fever and headache, and his skin was covered with spots which were judged at once to be indications of an approaching eruption of small-pox. The man was immediately sent on sh.o.r.e as a matter of precaution; but, nevertheless, eight days after our departure we had a second, and ten days after that a third case: the epidemic was on board, and though in a mild form, yet serious consequences were apprehended. The _re-vaccination_ of the men was therefore decided upon, and carried out, as far as the virus on board would admit. Only five individuals of the whole had not been vaccinated at all; some had undergone the operation in their childhood, a great part of them, however, had been vaccinated on board other vessels, from two to five years before. Only fourteen cases occurred. Most remarkable, and evidently in favour of those who advocate re-vaccination, is the fact, that amongst most of those who had been vaccinated in their childhood, the disorder was more severe than among those who had been re-vaccinated on board the s.h.i.+p. Among those who had _never_ undergone the operation before, the vaccination on board was most successful; not one of them caught the disorder. Among the _re-vaccinated_ only four cases occurred, with slighter symptoms than among those who had been once only operated upon. We met with several instances of the kind at other places where we touched. At Buenos Ayres, where the vaccination laws are stricter than anywhere else, the small-pox is extremely rare. Among the Brazilians, who entertain an absolute prejudice against vaccination, the _variola_ is one of the most common and most frightful diseases. It prevails still worse amongst the negro slaves, among whom, from the ignorance and prejudice of their masters, vaccination is neglected. The white marks of the disease are particularly visible in the black skin, and are evident proofs how virulently it has raged amongst them."]

After we had got through our duties at Gibraltar, an attempt was made, with the first favourable wind, to set sail and reach the Atlantic; the _Caroline_ remaining behind for the benefit of the sick on board. She was to follow only when the health of the crew no longer excited any apprehension.

On the 30th May the wind changed to south, and as the current in the harbour was also favourable, we weighed anchor in the hope that in the Straits we might meet with an easterly wind. The _Novara_ pa.s.sed the _Caroline_, which saluted with a round of cheers, when we tacked to clear the roads, after which all sail was hoisted to beat out against the western current in the Straits. The sea was covered with a mucous substance, which generally indicates that there is scarcely a chance of a fresh breeze; however, even the little we had, would have sufficed to carry us through the Straits, but towards 6 P.M. a perfect calm overtook us, and notwithstanding the press of sail, we were carried back towards the East, and about midnight found ourselves again in the Mediterranean, which did not seem disposed to part with us. There was no improvement next day, and at sunset we were exactly twenty-five miles east from the point we had occupied the preceding day. The clouds pa.s.sed from West to East across the moon, and in the night from the 31st of May to the 1st of June the westerly wind became so fresh that we had even to reef the sails.