Reminiscences of Pioneer Days in St. Paul Part 5

Park Place hotel, Summit avenue.

Carpenter house, Summit avenue.

Paul Faber's hotel, Third street.

The first hotel fire of any importance was that of the Daniels house, located on Eagle street near Seven Corners, which occurred in 1852.

The building had just been finished and furnished for occupancy. A strong wind was raging and the little band of firemen were unable to save the structure. The names of Rev. D.D. Neill, Isaac Markley, Bartlett Presley and W.M. Stees were among the firemen who a.s.sisted in saving the furniture.

The Sintominie hotel on the corner of Sixth and John streets, was the second hotel to receive a visit from the fire king. This hotel was constructed by the late C.W. Borup, and it was the pride of lower town. Howard Ward and E.C. Rich were preparing to open it when the fire occurred. Owing to the lack of fire protection the building was totally destroyed.

Early in the winter of 1856 the Rice house, commonly supposed to be the first brick building erected in St. Paul, was burned to the ground. It was three stories high, and when in process of building was considered a visionary enterprise. The building was constructed by Henry M. Rice, and he spared no expense to make it as complete as the times would allow. It was situated on Third street near Market, and in the early days was considered St. Paul's princ.i.p.al hotel. In its parlor and barroom the second session of the territorial legislature was held, and the supreme court of the territory also used it for several terms.

The Canada house and the Galena house, two small frame structures on Robert near Third, were the next hotels to be visited by the fiery element. These hotels, though small, were well patronized at the time of their destruction.

On the 16th of March, 1860, the most destructive fire that had ever occurred in St. Paul broke out in a small wooden building on Third street near Jackson, and though the entire fire department--three engines and one truck, manned by one hundred men--were promptly on hand, the flames rapidly got beyond their reach. Nearly all the buildings on Third street at that time from Robert to Jackson were two-story frame structures, and in their rear were small houses occupied by the owners of the stores. When the fire was at its height it was feared that the whole of lower town would be destroyed before the flames could be subdued, but by dint of superhuman effort the firemen managed to cut off the leap across Robert street and soon had the immense smouldering ma.s.s under control. Thirty-four buildings, the largest number ever destroyed in St. Paul, were in ashes. Of the two blocks which lined the north and south sides of Third street above Jackson, only three buildings were left standing, two being stone structures occupied by Beaumont & Gordon and Bidwell & Co., and the other a four-story brick building owned and occupied by A.L.

Larpenteur. The New England, a two-story log house, and one of the first hotels built in St. Paul was among the ruins. The New England was a feature in St. Paul, and it was pointed out to newcomers as the first gubernatorial mansion, and in which Gov. and Mrs. Ramsey had begun housekeeping in 1849. The Empire saloon was another historic ruin, for in its main portion the first printing office of the territory had long held forth, and from it was issued the first Pioneer, April 10, 1849. The Hotel to the Wild Hunter was also destroyed at this fire.

In the fall of 1862 the Winslow house, located at Seven Corners, was entirely destroyed by fire. A defective stovepipe in the cupola caused the fire, and it spread so rapidly that it was beyond the control of the firemen when they arrived upon the scene. A few pieces of furniture, badly damaged, was all that was saved of this once popular hotel. The Winslow was a four-story brick building, and with the exception of the Fuller house the largest hotel in the city. The hotel was constructed in 1854 by the late J.M. Winslow. Mr. Winslow was one of the most ingenious hotel constructors in the West. In some peculiar manner he was enabled to commence the construction of a building without any capital, but when the building was completed he not only had the building, but a bank account that indicated that he was a financier as well as a builder. The proprietors of the Winslow were arrested for incendarism, but after a preliminary examination were discharged.

The American house, on the corner of Third and Exchange streets, was one of the landmarks of the city for a good many years. It was built in 1849, and the territorial politicians generally selected this hotel as their headquarters. Although it was of very peculiar architecture, the interior fittings were of a modern character. On a stormy night in the month of December, 1863, an alarm of fire was sent in from this hotel, but before the fire department reached the locality the fire was beyond their control. The weather was bitter cold, and the water would be frozen almost as soon as it left the hose. Finding their efforts fruitless to save the building, the firemen turned their attention to saving the guests. There were some very narrow escapes, but no accidents of a very serious nature. As usual, thieves were present and succeeded in carrying off a large amount of jewelry and wearing apparel belonging to the guests.

In the year of 1856 Mackubin & Edgerton erected a fine three-story brick building on the corner of Third and Franklin streets. It was occupied by them as a banking house for a long time. The business center having been moved further down the street, they were compelled to seek quarters on Bridge Square. After the bank moved out of this building it was leased to Bechtner & Kottman, and was by them remodeled into a hotel on the European plan at an expense of about $20,000. It was named the Cosmopolitan hotel, and was well patronized.

When the alarm of fire was given it was full of lodgers, many of whom lost all they possessed. The Linden theatrical company, which was playing at the Athenaeum, was among the heavy sufferers. At this fire a large number of frame buildings on the opposite side of the street were destroyed.

When the Cosmopolitan hotel burned the walls of the old building were left standing, and although they were p.r.o.nounced dangerous by the city authorities, had not been demolished. Dr. Sch.e.l.l, one of the best known physicians of the city, occupied a little frame building near the hotel, and he severely denounced the city authorities for their lax enforcement of the law. One night at 10 o'clock the city was visited by a terrific windstorm, and suddenly a loud crash was heard in the vicinity of the doctor's office. A portion of the walls of the hotel had fallen and the little building occupied by the doctor had been crushed in. The fire alarm was turned on and the fire laddies were soon on the spot. No one supposed the doctor was alive, but after the firemen had been at work a short time they could hear the voice of the doctor from underneath the rubbish. In very vigorous English, which the doctor knew so well how to use, he roundly upbraided the fire department for not being more expeditious in extricating him from his perilous position. After the doctor had been taken out of the ruins It was found that he had not been seriously injured, and in the course of a few weeks was able to resume practice.

During the winter of 1868 the Emmert house, situated on Bench street near Wabasha, was destroyed by fire. The Emmert house was built in territorial times by Fred Emmert, who for some time kept a hotel and boarding house at that place. It had not been used for hotel purposes for some time, but was occupied by a colored family and used as a boarding-house for colored people. While the flames were rapidly consuming the old building the discovery was made that a man and his wife were sick in one of the rooms with smallpox. The crowd of onlookers fled in terror, and they would have been burned alive had not two courageous firemen carried them out of the building. It was an unusually cold night and the colored people were dumped into the middle of the street and there allowed to remain. They were provided with clothing and some of the more venturesome even built a fire for them, but no one would volunteer to take them to a place of shelter.

About 10 o'clock on the following day the late W.L. Wilson learned of the unfortunate situation of the two colored people, and he immediately procured a vehicle and took them to a place of safety, and also saw that they were thereafter properly cared for.

On the site of the old postoffice on the corner of Wabasha and Fifth streets stood the Mansion house, a three-story frame building erected by Nicholas Pottgieser in early days at an expense of $12,000. It was a very popular resort and for many years the weary traveler there received a hearty welcome.

A very exciting event occurred at this house during the summer of 1866. A man by the name of Hawkes, a guest at the hotel, accidentally shot and instantly killed his young and beautiful wife. He was arrested and tried for murder, but after a long and sensational trial was acquited.

The greatest hotel fire in the history of St. Paul occurred on the night of Feb. 3, 1869. The International hotel (formerly the Fuller house) was situated on the northeast corner of Seventh and Jackson streets, and was erected by A.G. Fuller in 1856. It was built of brick and was five stories high. It cost when completed, about $110,000. For years it had been the best hotel in the West. William H. Seward and the distinguished party that accompanied him made this hotel their headquarters during their famous trip to the West in 1860. Gen. Pope and Gen. Sibley had their headquarters in this building, and from here emanated all the orders relating to the war against the rebellious Sioux. In 1861 the property came into the possession of Samuel Mayall, and he changed the name of it from Fuller house to International hotel. Col. E.C. Belote, who had formerly been the landlord of the Merchants, was the manager of the hotel. The fire broke out in the bas.e.m.e.nt, it was supposed from a lamp in the laundry. The night was intensely cold, a strong gale blowing from the northwest. Not a soul could be seen upon the street. Within this great structure more than two hundred guests were wrapped in silent slumber. To rescue them from their perilous position was the problem that required instant action on the part of the firemen and the hotel authorities. The legislature was then in session, and many of the members were among the guests who crowded the hotel. A porter was the first to notice the blaze, and he threw a pail water upon it, but with the result that it made no impression upon the flames. The fire continued to extend, and the smoke became very dense and spread into the halls, filling them completely, rendering breathing almost an impossibility. In the meantime the alarm had been given throughout the house, and the guests, both male and female, came rus.h.i.+ng out of the rooms in their night Clothes. The broad halls of the hotel were soon filled with a crowd of people who hardly knew which way to go in order to find their way to the street. The servant girls succeeded in getting out first, and made their way to the snow-covered streets without sufficient clothing to protect their persons, and most of them were without shoes. While the people were escaping from the building the fire was making furious and rapid progress. From the laundry the smoke issued into every portion of the building. There was no nook or corner that the flames did not penetrate. The interior of the building burned with great rapidity until the fire had eaten out the eastern and southern rooms, when the walls began to give indications of falling. The upper portion of them waved back and forth in response to a strong wind, which filled the night air with cinders. At last different portions of the walls fell, thus giving the flames an opportunity to sweep from the lower portions of the building. Great gusts, which seemed to almost lift the upper floors, swept through the broken walls. High up over the building the flames climbed, carrying with them sparks and cinders, and in come instances large pieces of timber. All that saved the lower part of the city from fiery destruction was the fact that a solid bed of snow a foot deep lay upon the roofs of all the buildings.

During all this time there was comparative quiet, notwithstanding the fact that the fire gradually extended across Jackson street and also across Seventh street. Besides the hotel, six or eight other buildings were also on fire, four of which were destroyed. Women and men were to be seen hurrying out of the burning buildings in their night clothes, furniture was thrown into the street, costly pianos, richly upholstered furniture, valuable pictures and a great many other expensive articles were dropped in the snow in a helter-skelter manner. Although nearly every room in the hotel was occupied and rumors flew thick and fast that many of the guests were still in their rooms, fortunately no lives were lost and no one was injured. The coolest person in the building was a young man by the name of Pete O'Brien, the night watchman. When he heard of the fire he comprehended in a moment the danger of a panic among over two hundred people who were locked in sleep, unconscious of danger. He went from room to room and from floor to floor, telling them of the danger, but a.s.suring them all that they had plenty of time to escape. He apparently took command of the excited guests and issued orders like a general on the field of battle. To his presence of mind and coolness many of the guests were indebted for their escape from a frightful death. The fire department worked hard and did good service. The city had no waterworks at that time, but relied for water entirely upon cisterns located in different parts of the city. When the cisterns became dry it was necessary to place the steamer at the river and pump water through over two thousand feet of hose.

Among the guests at the hotel at the time of the fire were Gen. C.C.

Andrews, Judge Lochren, Capt. H.A. Castle, Gen. W.G. Le Duc, Selah Chamberlain, Gov. Armstrong and wife, Charles A. Gilman and wife, Dr. W.W. Mayo, I.W. Webb, Dr. Charles N. Hewitt, M.H. Dunnell, Judge Thomas Wilson and more than two hundred others.

The Park Place hotel on the corner of Summit avenue and St. Peter street, was at one time one of of the swell hotels of the city. It was a frame building, four stories high and nicely situated. The proprietors of it intended it should be a family hotel, but it did not meet with the success antic.i.p.ated, and when, on the 19th of May, 1878, it was burned to the ground it was unoccupied. The fire was thought to be the work of incendiaries. The loss was about $20,000, partially insured. Four firemen were quite seriously injured at this fire, but all recovered.

The Carpenter house, on the corner of Summit avenue and Ramsey street, was built by Warren Carpenter. Mr. Carpenter was a man of colossal ideas, and from the picturesque location of his hotel, overlooking the city, he could see millions of tourists flocking to his hostelry. The panic of 1857, soon followed by the great Civil war, put a quietus on immigration, and left him stranded high on the beach. Mr. Carpenter's dream of millions were far from being realized, and when on the 26th of January, 1879, the hotel was burned to the ground, it had for some time previous pa.s.sed beyond his control.

At one time there were three flouris.h.i.+ng hotels on Bench street.

The average citizen of to-day does not know that such a street ever existed. The Central house, on the corner of Bench and Minnesota streets, was the first hotel of any pretension built in the city, and it was one of the last to be burned. The first session of the territorial legislature of Minnesota was held in the dining room of this old hotel building, and for a number of years the hotel did a thriving business. As the city grew it was made over into a large boarding house, and before the war Mrs. Corbett was manager of the place. It was afterward kept by Mrs. Ferguson, George Pulford and Ben Ferris, the latter being in possession of it when it was destroyed by fire. The building was burned In August, 1873.

A hotel that was very popular for some time was the Greenman house, situated on the corner of Fifth and St. Peter streets, the site of the Windsor hotel. It was a three-story frame structure and was built in the early seventies. Mr. Greenman kept the hotel for some time, and then sold it to John Summers, who was the owner of it when it was burned.

The Merchants is the only one of the old hotels still existing, and that only in name, as the original structure was torn down to make room for the present building many years ago.

Aside from the hotel fires one of the most appalling calamities that ever occurred at a fire in St. Paul took place in May, 1870, when the old Concert Hall building on Third street, near Market, was destroyed.

Concert Hall was built by the late J.W. McClung in 1857, and the hall in the bas.e.m.e.nt was one of the largest in the city. The building was three stories high in front and six or seven on the river side. It was located about twenty-five feet back from the sidewalk. Under the sidewalk all kinds of inflamable material was stored and it was from here that the fire was first noticed. In an incredibly short time flames reached the top of the building, thus making escape almost impossible. On the river side of the building on the top floor two brothers, Charles and August Mueller, had a tailor shop. The fire spread so rapidly that the building was completely enveloped in flames before they even thought their lives were endangered. In front of them was a seething ma.s.s of flames and the distance to the ground on the river side was so great that a leap from the window meant almost certain death. They could be plainly seen frantically calling for help. There was no possible way to reach them. Finally Charles Mueller jumped out on the window sill and made a leap for life, and an instant later he was followed by his brother. The bewildered spectators did not suppose for a moment that either could live. They were too much horrified to speak, but when it was over and they were lifted into beds provided for them doctors were called and recovery was p.r.o.nounced possible. After months of suffering both recovered. August Mueller is still living in the city. A lady by the name of McClellan, who had a dressmaking establishment in the building, was burned to death and it was several days before her body was recovered.

The following named men have been chiefs of the St. Paul fire department:

Wash M. Stees, Chas. H. Williams, J.C.A. Pickett, W.T. Donaldson, J.B. Irvine, J.E. Missen, Luther H. Eddy, B. Rod.i.c.k, M.B. Farrell, J.C. Prendergast, Bartlett Presley, Frank Brewer, R.O. Strong, John T. Black, Hart N. Cook, John Jackson.

THE FIRST AMUs.e.m.e.nT HALLS IN ST. PAUL.

INCIDENTS CONNECTED WITH THE EARLY AMUs.e.m.e.nT HALLS OF ST. PAUL--IRVINE HALL--DAN EMMET AND DIXIE--THE HUTCHINSONS--MAZURKA HALL, MOZART HALL, ETC.

Very few of the 200,000 inhabitants of St. Paul are aware that the three-story, three-cornered building on Third street at Seven Corners once contained one of the most popular amus.e.m.e.nt halls in the city. It was called Irvine hall, and at one time Melodeon hall. Dan Emmet had a minstrel company at this hall during the years 1857 and 1858, and an excellent company it was, too. There was Frank Lombard, the great baritone; Max Irwin, bones, and one of the funniest men who ever sat on the stage; Johnny Ritter, female impersonator and clog dancer, and a large number of others. Frank Lombard afterward achieved a national reputation as one of the best baritone singers in the country. He was much sought after for patriotic entertainments and political conventions. His masterpiece was the Star-Spangled Banner, and his great baritone voice, which could be heard for blocks, always brought enthusiastic applause. Some time during the summer of 1858 the Hutchinson family arranged to have the hall for a one-night entertainment. By some means or other the troupe got separated and one of the brothers got stalled on Pig's Eye bar. When their performance was about half over the belated brother reached the hall and rushed frantically down the aisle, with carpetbag in hand, leaped upon the stage, and in full view of the audience proceeded to kiss the entire tribe. The audience was under the impression they had been separated for years instead of only twenty-four hours. The next evening Max Irwin was missing from his accustomed place as one of the end men, and when the performance had been in progress for about fifteen minutes Max came rus.h.i.+ng down the aisle with carpetbag in hand and went through the same performance as did the lost brother of the Hutchinson family. The effect was electrical, and for some time Max's innovation was the talk of the town. Dan Emmet, though a wondering minstrel, was a very superior man and was his own worst enemy. He was a brother of Lafayette S. Emmett, chief justice of the supreme court of the State of Minnesota. The judge, dignified and aristocratic, did not take kindly to the idea of his brother being a minstrel. Dan was not particularly elated because his brother was on the supreme bench. They were wholly indifferent as to each other's welfare. They did not even spell their names the same way. Dan had only one "t" at the end of his name, while the judge used two. Whether the judge used two because he was ashamed of Dan, or whether Dan used only one because he was ashamed of the judge, no one seemed to know. Dan Emmet left a legacy that will be remembered by the lovers of melody for many years. What left the judge? When Emmet's company left St. Paul they got stranded and many of them found engagements in other organizations. Dan turned his attention to writing negro melodies. He wrote several popular airs, one of them being "Dixie," which afterward became the national air of the Confederate States. When "Dixie" was written Emmet was connected with Bryant's Minstrels in New York city, and he sent a copy to his friend in St. Paul, the late R.C. Munger, and asked his opinion as to its merits and whether he thought it advisable to place it in the hands of a publisher. Mr. Munger a.s.sured his friend that he thought it would make a great hit, and he financially a.s.sisted Mr.

Emmet in placing it before the public. One of the first copies printed was sent to Mr. Munger, and the first time this celebrated composition was ever sung in the West was in the music store of Munger Bros, in the old concert hall building on Third street. "Dixie" at once became very popular, and was soon on the program of every minstrel troupe in the country. Dan Emmet devoted his whole life to minstrelsy and he organized the first traveling minstrel troupe in the United States, starting from some point in Ohio in 1843.