The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume II Part 2

The Valets of the Privy-chamber, and the Chamberlains of Honour in purple Robes. The four last carry'd on long Poles the four Cardinals Hats that are vacant. Then came forty Officers of the Senate and People of ROME, in Gowns of black Velvet, and wearing Caps of the same Stuff: These were follow'd by the Clerks of the Chamber, the Auditors of the Rota, by the Master of the sacred Palace walking on the Left of the Dean, by the Auditors of the Rota, and by fourteen Marshals wearing white sattin Waistcoats under Gowns of purple Mohair, and Caps of black Velvet. Then came the Governor of ROME in his Camail and Rochet, the Princes _del Soglio_ in black Coats and Cloaks, two Masters of the Ceremonies preceding the Pope's Cross-bearer, who carry'd the Image of our Saviour turn'd towards the Holy Father, and walk'd between two Ushers bearing red Wands.

Then the Holy Father appear'd in a Litter, like a _Phaethon_, lin'd with red Velvet embroider'd and lac'd with Gold, carry'd by two white Mules.

Twenty-four Pages in an antique Dress of white Sattin, with a great many red and silver'd Ribbands, and black Cloaks lin'd with white and silver Mohair, and inrich'd with broad Gold Lace, encompa.s.s'd the Litter, as did the Footmen, the Scavengers and the Lance-presadoes, in scarlet Cloaths trimm'd with Gold. Immediately before the Litter the Captain of the hundred _Swiss_ rode on Horseback, arm'd with a Cuira.s.s of Iron, and his Helmet, at the Head of two Files of the hundred _Swiss_ arm'd with Cuira.s.ses like himself. His Holiness, who was in the Middle, wore a white Ca.s.sock. He had a Rochet on, and over it a Stole of red Sattin embroider'd with Gold, the Camail or short Mantle of red Velvet lin'd with Ermin, a Cap of the same Stuff, and over that a red Hat. Next to the Litter came the Almoner, the Gentleman Carver, the Secretary, and the Physician. At some small Distance follow'd fourteen Cardinals riding on Mules, who were dress'd in purple Habits, and had their Cowls flapp'd over their Eyes, with their red Hats. They were follow'd by Signior _Neri Corsini_, a Nephew of _Clement_ XII. at the Head of the Patriarchs, Archbishops, a.s.sistant Bishops, Apostolical Prothonotaries, the Auditor of the Chamber, the Treasurer, the Recorders of the Signature, and the other domestic Prelates, all clad in their Rochets and Camails of Purple. The March was clos'd by the Light-horse and Carbineers. The former had at their Head the Marquis _Bartholomew Corsini_, and the Duke _Strozzi_, (both Nephews of the Holy Father) who shone in gilt Cuira.s.ses, and had over them Surtouts of red Grogram, or Mohair, embroider'd with Gold. They had on their Hats great Plumes of white Feathers, and their Pages carry'd their Spears and Helmets before them. The Light-horse had over their Cloaths, which are not of the same Pattern, Surtouts of red Cloth with Gold Lace; their Hats were adorn'd with large Plumes of white and red Feathers, and for their Arms they bore Lances, at the End of which are little Standards of red and blue Taffeta, such as I have seen carry'd by the _Spahis_.

All this Cavalcade pa.s.s'd thro' the Capitol, the Court whereof was hung with Tapestry of red Damask lac'd with Gold Tinsel. The Marquis _Frangipani_, a _Roman_ Senator, receiv'd the Pope, and presented him the Keys of the Capitol, after making a short Speech to him, which the Pope answer'd by a Benediction. At _Campo-Vaccino_, thro' which the Train pa.s.s'd, the Pope found near the _Farnese_ Vineyard a triumphal Arch, which the Duke of _Parma_, as Feudatory of the Holy See, is oblig'd to erect every Time that the new Popes take Possession of the _Lateran_ Church.

From the Capitol to the said Church, which is a very considerable Distance, the Streets were hung with Tapestry furnish'd by the _Jews_, who had brought out a great many moth-eaten Rags for the Purpose.

When the Pope alighted from his Litter, he was receiv'd at the Gate of St.

_John de Lateran_, by the Cardinal _Picus de Mirandola_, Arch-priest of the said Church, who presented the Holy Father with the Cross to kiss, and being preceded by the Chapter of St. _John de Lateran_, conducted him to the Throne which was erected on the Right-side of the great Gate. The Pope being there seated, array'd himself in his _Pontificalibus_, and put on the Mitre, after which he admitted the Chapter to kiss his Foot. Then the Cardinal Arch-priest harangu'd him in the Name of the Chapter, and presented him the Keys of the Church, one of which was of Gold, the other of Silver, in a Silver gilt Bason adorn'd with Flowers. During this, the Cardinals put on their Copes and their Mitres. Then the Pope rising from his Throne, advanc'd towards the great Gate of the Church. The Cardinal Arch-priest perfum'd him with Incense thrice, and presented the Sprinkler to him, which the Pope dipp'd into the Holy Water, and therewith sprinkled the Clergy and Laity. Then he seated himself in his Procession Chair, and was carry'd thro' the Body of the Church to the High Altar, the Members of the Chapter holding a Canopy over his Head. The Pope kneeling before the Holy Sacrament, made a short Prayer, and went and plac'd himself upon a Throne erected at the Bottom of the Choir facing the Entrance. There he receiv'd the usual Obeisance of the Cardinals, Bishops, Prelates and other Clergy, and then gave his solemn Benediction to the Standers-by, being a.s.sisted in this Ceremony by two Cardinal-Deacons, who put on his Mitre, and took it off, just as the Service requir'd. Then his Holiness descended from the Throne, and being seated in his Procession Chair, was carry'd to the _Lateran_ Palace. During this, the Musick play'd Anthems, and the Cardinal Arch-priest read several Prayers. When the Pope arriv'd at the great Pew fronting the s.p.a.cious Square that opens towards the City of ROME, he ascended a very high Throne, and gave his Benediction twice to all the Christian People. Then he saw some slight Medals scatter'd among the Populace, which were struck with his own Die. After this, he was carry'd in a Sedan to his Coach, in which he took with him the Cardinals _Banchieri_ and _Olivieri_, and thus he return'd to the Palace of _Monte-Cavallo_, attended by his usual Train.

This Cavalcade and Ceremony, after all that can be said, appear more magnificent in the Descriptions or Prints that are engrav'd of them, than they are in reality. If I may presume to say so, it has an Air of Masquerade which I don't think suitable to the Court of the Vicar of JESUS CHRIST. All the Laity dress'd in Black, and most of the Clergy in Purple, mounted upon Mules; all this, I say, forms a very dismal Pomp. Most of the Cardinals and Prelates are ancient, and to see them on Horseback, is not to see them at an Advantage. Carpets of different Colours were hung out at all the Windows, as is the Custom here upon all solemn Festivals, either in Processions, or in public Entries. But in my Opinion, all this Tapestry, instead of adorning the Houses, makes them look like Brokers Shops. The Carpets which are hung out in _France_ and the _Netherlands_ upon such Solemnities have an Air much more majestic.

The Models after which the triumphal Arch was erected were very fine; but as it was executed in Paper and Pastboard, a great Rain which had fallen for some Days before, had almost spoil'd it. Besides this, the Order of the Procession was very ill observ'd; for there were sometimes Intervals of half a Quarter of an Hour. And when the Pope went out of the _Lateran_ Church, there was so great a Stop of Coaches, that he was above an Hour getting along. 'Tis said, there will speedily be a Promotion of Cardinals; if so, I shall not fail to let you know what pa.s.ses at that Ceremony. But at present I shall add no more, and I question whether you will hear from me again before Lent. I am, _&c._

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER x.x.xI.

_SIR_, _Rome, March 10, 1731_

I was some Days ago at an Audience of the Holy Father. I might have had it sooner, but I thought fit to give Way to those that were more importunate for it; for _Clement_ XII. has been continually teaz'd upon that Score from the very Day of his Exaltation. The Form of demanding Audiences is the same here as at other Courts, and I a.s.sure you, the Difficulty of obtaining them is every whit as great; so that in this Point, all Countries, and all Courts are alike.

Having made my Application to Signior _Acquaviva_, the _Major Domo_, who officiated as Head-Chamberlain, in the room of Signior[4] _Doria_, then indisposed, he gave the Pope Notice that I attended, and he order'd me to be immediately admitted. I left my Hat and Sword at the Door, according to Custom. I found the Pope sitting under a Canopy, in an Elbow-chair, ascended by three Steps, with his right Foot resting on a Cus.h.i.+on of red Velvet. As I enter'd the Chamber, Signior _Acquaviva_ bid me kneel, which I did, and the Pope gave me his Blessing. I then rose up, and approach'd him as far as half the Length of the Chamber, when I kneel'd again, and receiv'd the Pope's Blessing a second Time. Then I arose again, and coming up close to the Pope, I kneel'd again, and receiv'd a third Blessing, all which Blessings really did not cost his Holiness much Trouble; for they consisted in no more than making a Sign of the Cross, without speaking one Word. The Pope, who is talkative, but eloquent, ask'd me many Questions, and recollected that he had known me when he was only a Cardinal. He was extremely gracious, and I had reason to be satisfied with my Audience so long as I had no Favour to ask. But the Moment that I put myself in the Number of Pet.i.tioners, I saw the Pope's Countenance change; his Smiles were turn'd into Frowns, and I could easily perceive that he had rather have my Room than my Company. But being appriz'd beforehand, that his Holiness was always uneasy at receiving Pet.i.tions, I proceeded without omitting a Word of what I had to say to him. In going out of the Chamber, I went backward, kneeling three times by the Way, as I had done at Entrance, and the Pope at each time gave me his Blessing, which was all that I got by my Audience; but I am preparing to desire another very soon; for they say, the honest Pope loves to be importun'd, and therefore I will gratify him in his own Way.

Indeed all that go to the Audience of the Holy Father fare no better than I did, unless they are Princes, and even the Catholics must all kiss the Pope's Toe. The Prince Regent of _Waldeck_, who was here not long ago, went to an Audience of his Holiness, and was receiv'd in the same manner as the Princes of _Brunswic_ had been formerly: He waited some Moments in the Antichamber, and without being oblig'd to leave his Sword and Hat, as those of his Retinue were, he was introduc'd by the _Major Domo_ to the Pope, who receiv'd him seated on his Throne. The Prince did not kneel as he enter'd, nor did the Pope, who ask'd him several Questions, and was inform'd that he was a _Lutheran_, give him his Blessing: Before he withdrew, the Prince desir'd the Pope, that he would give him leave to introduce his Retinue to him; when one of his Gentlemen, scrupulous to the last Degree, neither kneel'd, nor kiss'd the Pope's Foot. At _Geneva_ indeed he deserv'd to have his Statue erected, tho' here his Politeness was call'd in question; but as for the Prince of _Waldeck_, all ROME was charm'd with his obliging and polite Behaviour: He spent four or five Months here, and liv'd handsomely. He apply'd himself to the Knowledge of Antiques, and made a Collection of Stones finely cut, which, tho' not so large as some are, is not the worse chosen; for he has discover'd a very great Taste and Skill in Curiosities; and happy would it be for _Germany_ if all its Princes were like him.

The Prince of _Waldeck_ leads me to give you an Account of those unfortunate Princes who are here call'd the King and Queen of _England_.

Perhaps you will not dislike to know what they are doing, and on what Foot they stand here. That unfortunate Prince, which is a t.i.tle I think no body can envy him, lives a very melancholy Life; and I question whether the Pension which the Pope allows him of 12000 Crowns, is enough to make him easy under his Afflictions: He lodges in the Palace of the Marquis _Monti_, and has a great Number of Domestics, but few in his Service that are Persons of Quality. My Lord _Dunbar_ is the chief Man at his Court, since Mr. _Hayes_, to whom the Pretender gave the t.i.tle of my Lord _Inverness_, retir'd to _Avignon_: This Gentleman is intrusted with the Education of the young Princes, who are here styl'd the Prince of _Wales_, and the Duke of _York_, and as lovely Children they both are as one shall see.

The King, or the Pretender, it matters not, is complimented with the Style of _Majesty_ by the Pope, and by all that have Access to him. He never goes to an Audience of the Holy Father in public, but always by the Back-stairs; and the Pope not only gives him an Arm-chair, but all the Honours are paid to him that are due to a King who keeps _incognito_. When the Cardinals visit him, he gives them the _Tabouret_, or little Stool; but the Imperial Cardinals never go to see him, nor did they think fit to do it, even at the Time when the Emperor seem'd to be more embroil'd with the King of _Great Britain_ than ever; whereas the _French_ Cardinals go to him every Day, and are always with him, notwithstanding the strict Alliance between the King their Master, and the King of _Great Britain_.

When the eldest Prince, who is here styl'd the Prince of _Wales_, goes to wait on the Pope, he is treated as the presumptive Heir of a Crown; he has a Chair set for him with a Back to it, and takes Place of the Cardinals.

As to the younger Son, the pretended Duke of _York_, his Rank is not yet settled, nor has he yet made a Visit to the Pope.

_The Pretender_ is of a middling Stature, but a mere Skeleton; and if I may venture to say it, has nothing in his Looks of an Impostor: He is prodigiously like the Pictures I have seen of the late King _James_ II.

his Father, only his Aspect is something more melancholy; but he is so far from it in his natural Temper, that he is a Lover of Pleasures, and would indulge himself in Gallantry, if he was not so strictly watch'd by the Priests; for if the scandalous Chronicle does not belye him, Mrs. _Hayes_, _alias_ Lady _Inverness_, had, for a while, the Honour of obliging him. If one may guess at the Heart by external Appearances, he is sincerely attach'd to the Religion which he professes, yet without being such a Bigot as some will have him to be; for he causes his Children to be educated by Protestants, and every _Sunday_ a Church of _England_ Minister preaches in _English_ in the Protestant Chapel of his Palace: He is extremely reserv'd at first to those with whom he is not acquainted, but it wears off by Degrees; and when once he knows People, he is very courteous and civil to them. I have the Honour to be often at his Table, and I am bound to acknowledge his Favours to me.

His Table, which is commonly laid for a dozen Guests, is serv'd with what is grand and delicate. The Queen eats at her own little Table. People are seated at the King's Table without any Distinction of Rank, and he sits himself between the two Princes his Sons: He talks a great deal at his Meals, but the Tone of his Voice is not the most agreeable: His Conversation runs generally upon common Topicks, and falls very naturally upon his Misfortunes. All this Prince's Time is regularly divided; he rises early, devotes the Morning to his Business, hears Ma.s.s before Noon, when he goes to Dinner, and after sitting an Hour and half, or two Hours at Table, takes a Nap; and then, unless it be a Saint's Day, when he goes to Vespers, he walks out for the Air in some Garden or other without ROME, where he exercises himself on Horseback, or else diverts himself at Mall with his Sons, and his Gentlemen. In the Evening he returns to his Palace, and receives Visits from the Cardinals; at Ten o'Clock he goes to Supper, and at Midnight to Bed. During the Carnival he was almost every Day at the Opera, where his Box being very large, he used to sup with the Gentlemen and Ladies of his Court.

The Queen his Wife is a Princess, who deserves in reality to be a Queen; and tho' not a sparkling Beauty, it may be said that her Person is infinitely charming; she has indeed the Character of a most accomplish'd Lady, and never was there a better natur'd Person with more Humility; she is friendly, compa.s.sionate, charitable; her Piety is exemplary, and in Truth, she leads the Life of a Saint, without affecting the Shew of ceremonial Devotion; for she has nothing more at heart than to do good, and her Love of one sublime Virtue is incredible; for tho' she is heartily attach'd to her own Religion, she has no Rancour against those who differ from her in Opinion, but would fain reclaim them by her good Example and good Nature. Were she Mistress of a Kingdom, she would certainly make it her Rule to discharge the Duties of her Rank as became it; and indeed, Nature has given her great Advantages to acquit herself worthily in such a Sphere; for she has a wonderful quick Comprehension, an admirable Memory, and she speaks _Polish_, _High-Dutch_, _French_, _Italian_, and _English_ so well, that 'tis not easy to distinguish which of those Languages is most familiar to her. I own to you, that of all the Princesses whom ever I had the Honour to approach, I don't know one more deserving of the Veneration of the Public. I should be glad to see her happy; and if that Respect and Duty, from which I shall never depart, did not bind me so strongly to the King and Queen of _Great Britain_, I could wish to see her wear the Crown of the three Kingdoms.

You know that this Princess is Daughter to Prince _James Sobieski_, and by consequence Cousin German to the Emperor, and the Queen of _Spain_, and Niece to the Elector Palatine, and the Queen of _Spain_, Widow of _Charles_ II. Yet all this did not protect her from being arrested at _Inspruck_, when she pa.s.s'd that Way to _Italy_, to be married to the Pretender; she was kept in very close Custody, and the Manner of her Deliverance shews the Superiority of her Genius. The Pretender sent Mr.

_Gaydon_, then a Major in the Service of _France_, to try if he could procure her Liberty; the said Officer went to _Inspruck_, accompany'd by Mr. _Wogan_, an _English_ Gentleman, and one _Misset_, an _Irishman_, who carry'd his Wife with him. They arriv'd accordingly at _Inspruck_ with a great Retinue, and there they pa.s.s'd for People of Consequence: They contriv'd so that their Coach Wheels broke at the Gate of the City, to give them a Pretence for staying in the Town till their Coach was repair'd: They introduc'd themselves into all a.s.semblies, and found out a Nun whom they brib'd to deliver Letters to the Princess. Having fix'd on the Day for carrying her off, and even appointed the Hour, which was Eleven at Night, they got a young Woman of the Princess's Stature to pa.s.s thro' the Guards in the Antichamber, and to lie in the Prisoner's Bed, who for two Days had pretended to be sick. The Princess put on the Girl's Cloaths, and in that Disguise went out of her Apartment, pa.s.s'd thro' her Guards, and made up towards _Misset_, who gave a Whistle opposite to the Convent, as had been agreed on beforehand, that she might know whom to apply to. The Princess was conducted to an Inn, and as it had snow'd a great deal, and was very dirty and dark, she happen'd to step into a Slough; one of her Shoes stuck so fast in the Mud, that she was oblig'd to leave it behind her, and to walk only with one Shoe on to the Inn. From thence, without giving herself Time to change her Stockings, she went, wet and draggled as she was, into a Coach, where Mrs. _Misset_ and Mr.

_Gaydon_ had the Honour to sit with her. _Wogan_ rode by the Side of the Coach, and _Misset_ stay'd two Hours longer at _Inspruck_, to see whether any Discovery was made of the Princess's Flight. The Silence of the Guard was such, that he believ'd they knew nothing of the Matter, so that he rode after the Princess, but kept two Post-Stages behind, in order to watch if they were not pursued, which was a very good Precaution; for early next Day it was found out that the Princess had made her Escape; and the Commandant at _Inspruck_ immediately sent off Messengers to all the great Roads, with Orders to all the Officers of the Country to apprehend the Fugitive. _Misset_ being overtaken by one of those Messengers, he travell'd a little way with him, and resolv'd either to make him drunk, or to knock him on the Head. Having provided himself beforehand with a certain intoxicating Drug which immediately bereaves People of their Senses, and throws them into a profound Sleep, he gave some of it to the Messenger; and when he found him doz'd, he took away his Dispatches, and went and overtook the Princess, who, after travelling three Days and three Nights successively, without Rest, was got into the Dominions of the Holy See.

Arriving at _Bologna_, she there found my Lord _Dunbar_, vested with a Proxy from the Pretender, then in _Spain_, to marry her; which Ceremony was accordingly perform'd there without much Pomp, and the Princess set out in a few Days for _Rome_. My Lady _Marr_, accompany'd by all the _English_ of both s.e.xes that were at ROME of the Pretender's Party, went in that Prince's Coaches to meet the Princess; and the Cardinals, the _Roman_ Princes, and all the n.o.bility likewise sent their Coaches. Thus did the Princess make her public Entry into ROME, where she was receiv'd with great Marks of Respect; and there she was, not long after, join'd by her Husband[5].

While I am speaking of the Pretender, I ought not to omit acquainting you of a certain Prophecy in every body's Mouth here, which was said to be found among the Papers of the late Pope, importing, that in the Year 1734, the Pretender should be in the peaceable Possession of the Throne of _Great Britain_; but I would not give much Money for his Hopes[6]. Be this as it will, the Prophecy is as follows:

Dum _Marcus cantabit Hallelujah, Et Antonius Veni Creator, Et Joannes Baptista caenabit, Tune regnabit et triumphabit Rex in Anglia Jacobus_ III.

_i. e._

_When Easter falls on St. Mark's Day, And Whitsunday on St. Antony's of Padua, And when St. John the Baptist's is a Sacrament Day, Then King James +III.+ shall reign and triumph in England._

Thanks to G.o.d, the Carnival is ended; I say, Thanks to G.o.d, because it was to me very tiresom, tho' it lasted here, according to an establish'd Custom, but a Week. During all that Time, from Two o'Clock in the Afternoon till Sun-set, all the Streets were full of Masquers, some on Foot, and some in open Chaises: The former say a thousand silly Things, and the latter throw Meslin in one another's Eyes by Handfuls; but the best on't is, that either by their Cloaths, or their Equipage, every body is known. Besides, the Pageantry of the _Romans_ is always the same, even in Masquerades; they dress up their Domestics like Harlequins, and make them follow them with their Faces bare. They thus rake the Air gravely in open Chariots made like Gondolas. Their Horses are adorn'd with Plumes of Feathers, and loaded with little Bells like ours in the Sled Races. In the Evening the Coaches range themselves in two Rows in the Street _del Corso_, which is besides pretty narrow, and there they see the Race of Barbs, which are five or six Horses, that are suffer'd to run loose without a Rider, from the Gate _del Popoli_ to a Place beyond the _Venetian_ Palace. The poor Beasts gallop thro' the Shouts and Cries of the Populace, and are often crippled by striking themselves against the Coaches. The first of these Horses that reaches the Goal wins a Prize for his Master, which generally consists of a Piece of Cloth of Gold, and at Sun-set every body retires. Mean time a _Roman_ will tell you, that the Carnival of ROME is the finest in the World.

But the thing of which they brag most, and which they believe is no-where to be parallell'd for Magnificence, is their b.a.l.l.s, of which you shall now be Judge: Several Gentlemen having clubb'd this Winter for the Hire of the Palace _Barberini_, near the _Mount of Piety_, and caus'd it to be furnish'd by the _Jew_ Brokers; when the Day was fix'd for the Ball, they invited all the Ladies; and as to the Gentlemen, they had the Liberty of appearing there mask'd, provided they made themselves known at the Door: All the Rooms were small, and but poorly lighted; there were several Pieces of Dancing to the Music of five or six Violins: The Room design'd for the princ.i.p.al n.o.bility was encompa.s.s'd with Forms, and the Place for the Dancers was an oval Nook rail'd in. A Gentleman of the Company that gave the Ball stood at the Entrance of the Oval; they gave him the t.i.tle of Master of the Hall, and 'twas he that call'd out the Dancers. All the Ladies were mask'd at this Ball, which was call'd a Feast, but I know not why; for there were Gla.s.ses indeed, but there was nothing to eat or drink.

The Ladies were all very gay, and some of them in Court-Dresses. I have been twice at these pretended Entertainments, but was so tir'd, and in such Danger of being press'd to Death, that I don't care to go again; for which reason the _Romans_ say, I have not an elegant Taste.

Neither am I very well reconcil'd to their Plays, of which indeed here are none all the Year, except during the Carnival; but then we had two Opera-Theatres, and four or five for Comedy. Of all these Theatres there's but one that's good for any thing, and that's the Ladies Theatre, commonly call'd the Theatre of _Aliberti_ because 'twas built by Order of one Count _Aliberti_. The Room is excessively large, so that the Voices are lost in it; it has seven Rows of Boxes, so low and little, that it makes the Room look like a Henroost; the Pit will hold 900 Persons with Ease: The Stage is s.p.a.cious, very high, and fitely decorated; but they don't s.h.i.+ft the Scenes with that Dexterity as they do at our Play-houses, yet, when the whole is put together, the Place is not to be despised: The Habits of the three princ.i.p.al Actors are magnificent, but those of the rest are horrible. Their Voices are good, and so are their Instruments for the most part; but their Dancers are too bad to behold, and you can't imagine any thing more hideous: The Women are in the Disguise of Men, out of a ridiculous Scruple, if I may venture to call it so, which they have here, that Women should not be seen at the Theatres. This is the Reason, that the Operas of ROME are vastly inferior to the other Operas of _Italy_.

There is not perhaps a more ridiculous Sight, than to see these Creatures, who are but half Men, play the Parts of Women; yet, tho' they have neither Air nor Gracefulness, they are applauded here as much as the best Actresses are elsewhere. Tho' I am pa.s.sionately fond of the _Italian_ Music, yet I own to you, that I am disgusted with their Operas, when I see those Eunuchs play the Part of a _Roland_, a _Hercules_, or some such Hero; and I have not Patience to see no more than half a dozen Actors, no Machines, and no Dances, except in the Interludes. In my Opinion, such an Opera rather deserves the Name of a Concert; good Voices here are very scarce, and there are actually but five or six Men, and three Women, that have the Reputation of singing well. The Case is the very same with the Composers; they have just lost one of the ablest Men of that Cla.s.s; _viz.

Leonard Vinci_, who, they say, was poison'd at _Naples_; but there are still remaining M. _Ha.s.s_, commonly call'd the _Saxon_, and _Signior Purpora_, of whom the former is a _German_, who married the famous _Signiora Faustina_.

While I am giving you an Account of the Pleasures of ROME, I ought not to omit the Inundations of the Square _Navona_, which are perform'd on the four _Sundays_ in the Month of _August_. Two Thirds of the Square being then laid under Water, it forms a Lake, in which the Coaches make a Ring.

The adjacent Windows are full of Spectators, and the Fronts of the Houses are crowded by the Populace, who make hideous Shouts and Outcries, when a Coach happens to take in a little Water, or when one overturns, which sometimes is the Case. The oddest Thing of all to my Mind is, that while the People were intent upon seeing the Coaches pa.s.s, and playing a thousand Pranks, a Jesuit, mounted upon a Rail at the other End of the Square, bawl'd out in vain for an Audience of Penitents; and tho' very few, if any body, heard him, yet he went on haranguing, and 'twas not his Fault that every body did not forsake all to hear him. About twenty Paces from the Preacher was a Mountebank, who, by the comical Jests and Actions of his _Merry-Andrew_, drew a much greater Audience to him than the Jesuit had.

Are not these now very inchanting Pleasures? Yet a _Roman_, who never pa.s.s'd the _Ponte Mole_, as there are a great many who have not, will tell you there are none like those of ROME. But I affirm that the _Romans_ don't know what Diversion is; for in those Parties of Pleasure where reigns the greatest Freedom, there's always an Air of Constraint, which one does not see elsewhere: Nor does a free Deportment become them, insomuch that when they a.s.sume such a Carriage, they naturally forget Politeness, which besides is not what they are much used to; for they know how to be respectful, much more than to be polite. The Way to be acquainted with them thoroughly, is to visit them at their Country-Seats, where they are more frank, less ceremonious, and more sociable, and where they live much better than they do at ROME, at least they feed better; and I will even venture to say, that they there spend high, but they get not the Credit by such Living which they ought, because they don't set it off to the best Advantage; and if I am not too much prejudiced, it seems to me, that they grudge the Expence. The most sumptuous Article of their Repasts is Deserts, and they have excellent Cooks and Butlers; but as for us _Ultramontains_, we are not quite so well used to their Method of Cookery.

I know not whether 'tis the Depravity of my Taste, or the Want of Discernment; but I cannot conceive what Motives, except Devotion or Curiosity, can bring any Man to ROME, than which there is hardly a more melancholy City in the World: Yet I know some Foreigners, and in particular certain _Englishmen_, who are fond of ROME to a Degree of Enthusiasm. I strive to think as they do, and would fain persuade myself, that the Life which they lead here is agreeable; but I can't be of that Opinion, nor can I accustom myself to take up Manners and Customs so contrary to ours. At my Age, 'tis a hard Matter to fall into a new Taste and Fas.h.i.+on of Living: Those of ROME don't agree with me, and I foresee they never will; yet if by Chance I should meet with any Pastime here, I promise you, I'll revoke my Complaints, and give you an Account of my Pleasures, as I do of my Chagrin.

The People here rise late, and go to Bed late; the first Thing which they do is to drink Chocolate; then they hear Ma.s.s in their domestic Chapel, of which almost every House has one: They afterwards make some Visits, return home at Dinner-time, undress, and dine frugally with their Families. After their Meal they get between the Sheets, and sleep for an Hour or two; and after that, loiter away as much in doing nothing at all; but then they dress, and go the Ring, which is without the Gate _del Popoli_; from thence to the _Ponte Mole_ there's a Walk, which is very sorrily pav'd, between two Walls, and some pitiful Houses; and there's no Air, but Dust enough to choak one. When the Sun is upon its Decline, the _Beau Monde_ repairs to the Square, or Place _d'Espagne_, where I think I have already told you how they amuse themselves. From the Square they go and make their Visits of Ceremony: At Two o'Clock at Night, which in the long Days in Summer is about Ten with us, they fall into _a.s.semblies_. These may be divided into three Cla.s.ses, the great Companies for Gaming, the private Companies where they also play, and the Societies in which they only converse. Neither of the three are very numerous, which is owing to the Difference between the Princesses and the Ladies, and to the Fondness of all the Ladies to have Company at their own Houses.

The a.s.semblies that are most frequented by Foreigners, are those of Mesdames _Corsini_, the Pope's Nieces, the Duke of _Santo Bueno_, and the Countess of _Bolognetti_. These are the three Houses at ROME where there is most Company, and where Foreigners are most civilly entertain'd. The Duke has a Concert at his House every _Friday_, at which are present all the People of Distinction at ROME. _Madame de Bolognetti_ has a grand a.s.sembly every _Sunday_, which begins with a great Levee of Women, for the most part well-dress'd, who lend their Ears to two or three prating Abbes, lolling carelessly on the Backs of their Chairs. A Foreigner enters, and salutes the Company respectfully; but no Lady gives heed to him, except Madame _Bolognetti_, a fine young Lady, who is the only one that rises; and she does her best to entertain the poor Stranger in _French_, which she talks very prettily. Many other Ladies both understand, and can speak this Language; but whether it is owing to Timorousness or Ill-nature, they don't care to talk it; which is so true, that I remember the first Time I travell'd hither, I one Day accosted a very amiable Lady in the _French_ Tongue, because then I did not understand the _Italian_; but she answer'd me in good _French_, _Sir, I neither speak nor understand the +French+ Language_. She then turn'd about, and in a Moment I saw a well-looking Abbe come in, who talk'd with her in private all the Evening, and probably in such a Language as she understood.

After the Levee they fall to play, but 'tis at such Games as we _Ultramontains_ know no more of than Magic; _viz._ such as _Tarot_, _Pazzica_, _Premiere_, and _Milchiades_. As to the last of these, I take it to be like the Languages, which 'tis difficult to be Master of, unless People begin to learn them when they are young. It would take up a Man's whole Life to learn to know the Cards, whereof at one Game they play with 99, which are painted too with very extraordinary Figures of Popes, Devils, _&c._ and it often happens, that the Devil takes up the Pope.

During the Conclave they play at _Pharao_, but the Pope has prohibited all Games of Hazard, which was an Injury to many Houses that subsisted by the Money for the Cards.

The private a.s.semblies differ only from the public ones, in that they have not so much Company. There is generally the Mistress of the House, and a Dozen _Pet.i.ts-colets_, who really are the _Pet.i.ts-Maitres_ of this Place, supposing them to be _Italians_; for you are not to imagine that these Gentlemen will suffer a poor _Ultramontain_ Abbe to put in a Word, because they think he has neither Sense nor Merit. As this is a Country of Priests, you shall see ten Sparks of the Band to one of the Sword. 'Tis true, that the Abbe wears the same Habit as the Gentlemen of the Gown, and as all others do who are not able to lay out much Money in Cloaths; so that when you see a _Pet.i.t-colet_ come out of any suspicious Places, you must beware of Mistakes; for they are not always Priests, nor even Clergymen.

The third Cla.s.s of a.s.semblies, where there is no Gaming, is generally at the House of some Prince; there I spend my Evenings with great Pleasure and Freedom; yet 'tis at one of the chief Houses of ROME, and really the Conversation is held in one of the finest Apartments in the World. I enter a very s.p.a.cious magnificent Room, illuminated by a Couple of Wax Candles, so that if Custom had not taught me the way, I shou'd be at a Loss where to salute the Master and Mistress of the House: These two little Candles are plac'd in great Candlesticks of Silver upon old-fas.h.i.+on'd Stands of the same Metal. A Fountain of solid Silver, from which the Water spouts with a soft Murmur, invites me agreeably to Slumber; and it seems as if those in the Room were afraid to awake me; for they do nothing but whisper, and not a Mortal stirs from the Spot in which his good or ill Fortune plac'd him, because it wou'd be a Crime even to move a Chair; so that unless one had a speaking Trumpet, a Man must be content to converse with his next Neighbour. The Moment one enters the Room, two Pages in a black Livery attend us with Ice upon Salvers, but I don't accept it every time 'tis offer'd; for if I did, my Stomach wou'd have long ago been congeal'd like the frozen Ocean. This profound Silence, this murmuring Fountain, all these Cardinals, Prelates and Abbats, dress'd in Black; the two Wax Candles, giving a dismal Light; all this, I say, together, makes the a.s.sembly look like Mutes posted to watch a Corpse, and I a.s.sure you that a Church-yard itself does not put me more in mind of Mortality.

Nevertheless it sometimes happens that one or other of the Company raises his Voice, and relates the News of the Day. This is generally confin'd to what is done within the City; for what was said by the Pope, the contrary Effect of some Medicine, or else some Cardinal or Prelate, the Heat or Cold of the Weather, and the Age of the Moon, are the common Topics. And after having thoroughly canva.s.s'd these momentous Subjects till Midnight, all the Company retires with their Heads as empty as their Stomachs.

Can you think, Sir, after what I have told you, that a Foreigner pa.s.ses his Time here well? No, truly, ROME is a City that a young Gentleman indeed ought absolutely to see; for here he will conceive a perfect Notion of Architecture, establish himself in a Taste for Painting and Sculpture, and acquire a true Idea of the Magnificence of old ROME: But when he has digested all this, I would advise him to be gone, since there is nothing more for him to learn, and he is in Danger of forgetting every thing.

There is not so much as one good Fencing Master, and scarce a Master of the Languages that understands the _Italian_; and those who are Dabblers in this Way are generally Foreigners, who have neither Accent nor Method.

All that a young Gentleman can learn here is Architecture, and the Canon Law; for as to Ecclesiastical History, there are few People that are Masters of it in its Purity.

A Gentleman that lives beyond the Mountains will here be apt to forget the good Manners he may have contracted in _France_, or elsewhere; for, I say it again, the Generality of the _Romans_ know nothing more than Ceremony, because they are ignorant of good Manners, and there's scarce one of them in a thousand that has the Air of a Man of Quality: To be a Judge of this, one must see them at Table, and in what a very slovenly Manner they behave at their Meals, which is owing to their eating generally alone; for they then loll so much at Table, that when they dine in Company, they are at a Loss what to do. They are not only nasty in their manner of eating, but in their Cloaths; for I believe there is not above one out of thirty that puts on fresh Linen every Day. I remember that in 1719, when I was in _France_, a Reformado Colonel, who, tho' an _Italian_, was in the _French_ Service, often came to me in a Morning, and seeing me dress myself, told me one Day that he observ'd I follow'd the _French_ Fas.h.i.+on strictly: I ask'd him, In what? He made Answer, In my changing my s.h.i.+rt every Day.

Nevertheless I wou'd not have you think that this Slovenliness is general; for there are People as much perfum'd here as elsewhere; and you may take my Word for it, that a _Pet.i.t-Maitre_ at ROME is as great a Fop as the pertest _French Pet.i.t-Maitre_. Indeed they are more rare here than elsewhere, because no young Sparks are admitted to the a.s.semblies before they are twenty Years of Age.

But as for what remains of the Character of the _Romans_, I must tell you ingenuously, that I think the Notion we on the other Side of the Mountains have of them comes far short of it. There are good People in all Countries, and I know some _Romans_ of as strict Probity as the honestest _Teutonics_. I know others that are not so honest; but is not the Case the same every-where, and is there one Country upon the Face of the Earth, where all the People are virtuous? The _Italians_ are in general accus'd of being jealous, but I really think it wrong; for there's no Nation where the Ladies have more Freedom than here. 'Tis possible that some of the Leaven of the antient Jealousy may still remain among the Citizens; but as to the People of Quality, I don't think them any more liable to that Imputation than our People are. I wish I cou'd say as much in their Vindication as to their being too much given to n.i.g.g.ardliness; but the Fact is too well known, and 'tis the original Sin of almost all the _Italians_, particularly of the _Romans_, from the highest to the lowest; and 'tis undoubtedly this avaricious Temper which makes them so sober as they are; for I think I took Notice to you, that when they are at other Folks Tables, they are intemperate enough; yet I never saw the better Sort drunk, and the common People but very seldom. They are accus'd also of being revengeful, which may be true enough; but really they are cry'd out against upon that Score much more than they deserve; for I have known some that have receiv'd Affronts, so good-natur'd as to forget them. 'Tis true, that the Populace are very apt to make use of the _Stilletto_, but this is owing to the too great Indulgence of Justice. A Man convicted of Murder for the first Time is condemn'd to the Gallies; tho' in some Cases indeed he is only banish'd from the City, and the Ecclesiastical State; and then, after two or three Years Absence, he pays 50 Crowns, and returns to ROME.

They who have committed a Murder, and are not apprehended, generally compound the Matter with the Government by paying a certain Sum of Money.

If Justice was no stricter in our Part of the World, and if our Churches were Sanctuaries, as they are here, we shou'd have more Crimes perhaps committed among us than there are at ROME, where, when all is said and done, we don't hear of Robberies, nor of Murders committed for the sake of Robberies; and tho' there are no Lanthorns, nor Watchmen, nor Patrolls here in the Night, I shou'd make no Scruple to go from one End of the City to the other with my Purse in my Hand. What I shou'd be most afraid of wou'd be the being a.s.sa.s.sinated by Mistake; but even Murders of this Kind are much oftner committed among the Dregs of the People, than among Persons of Breeding; for since I have been here, I have not heard of such an Accident to any Person of Note.

I happen'd not long ago to be one Evening at a House not far from my Quarters, so that I went home alone, and on Foot; it might be about Eleven o'Clock, 'twas a fine Moon light Night, and there were a great many People stirring in the Streets. I pa.s.s'd thro' the Street _del Corso_, and just as I came to the Square of _Colonna_, near the House of Cardinal _Imperiali_, I saw two Men coming towards me, one at a little Distance behind the other: As the former brush'd close by me, I heard a Pistol go off, and saw the poor Man fall down dead at my Feet: The Shot came from the Man that was behind, with whom, it seems, he had a Quarrel at Gaming; but n.o.body troubled their Heads to apprehend the Criminal, so that he went very quietly to take Shelter in a Church, where I saw him some Days after; at length he is got abroad, and if he can but make up the Sum of 50 Crowns, he will be sure of his Pardon, after three Years Exile. But 'tis really an abominable Case, that sacred Places, set apart to keep the Holocaust without Spot or Blemish, shou'd serve as a Place of Retreat for a Miscreant, that comes in reeking with his Neighbour's Blood. This is an Abuse which every body confesses, but they are loth to violate antient Privileges. In the last Pope's Time, _Alberoni_ propos'd to the other Cardinals in a Congregation to solicit the Pope to take away the Franchises from the Churches; but his Proposal was rejected, whereupon he said with Indignation, 'Since 'tis so, I heartily wish, that some Villain wou'd take it into his Head to murder some one of you, and fly for Refuge to the Church of which I am Protector: I a.s.sure you, that were the whole Sacred College to demand him of me, instead of delivering him up to Justice, I wou'd do all in my Power to promote his Escape.' 'Tis said, that _Clement_ XII. has a Mind to take away those Franchises with regard to a.s.sa.s.sins; but I question whether he will have the Courage to venture at it, because it brings so much Grist to the Friers Mills, the Privileges of whose Convents procure them the Respect of the better Sort of People, and the Homage of the Mob.

Notwithstanding the Disorders that happen here, and the Abuses that are so establish'd, yet there is not a City in the World where G.o.d is better serv'd, and where Charity to the Poor is more put in Practice. For this Purpose there's a great Number of Hospitals, among which that for Pilgrims is worth seeing. Hundreds of Pilgrims of all Nations are admitted into it almost every Day, who are there lodg'd and taken care of for three Days, and then dismiss'd with Money in their Pockets. Towards the latter end of the Holy Week, these Pilgrims are serv'd, the Men by the Cardinals, and the Women by the Princesses and Ladies of ROME.