The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume I Part 18

From _Landau_ I pa.s.s'd to BRHOUSEL, with an Intention to pay my respects to the Cardinal _de Schonborn_ Bishop of _Spire_ who resides there, but I did not succeed better there than at _Rastadt_; for his Eminency excus'd himself from seeing me because he was going a hunting, and put me off till next day; but I did not think it worth while to wait, what had happen'd to me at the Court of _Baden_ being too fresh in my Memory. I was afraid of the same Fate at _Brhousel_, where I lay at such sorry Quarters that I cou'd not avoid catching Cold, my Lodging-Room being without Gla.s.s, and be famish'd into the bargain, there being nothing to eat: Besides, my Landlord told me that the Cardinal made even those People who came to him upon Business dance attendance for three or four days. I said to my self therefore that he had much more reason to make me wait, who came to his Court out of meer Curiosity. I resolv'd therefore, as any Gentleman ought to have done in the like case, and took the opportunity of the Cardinal's Absence to go and view the outside of his Palace. 'Tis a great Structure not yet entirely finish'd, which the Cardinal has. .h.i.therto carry'd on from the very Foundation; but if I must be sincere with you, all these Works, considerable as they are, have been form'd upon pitiful Plans. It has cost a very large Sum of Money; and I fancy that in the time of the ancient _Teutonics_, it wou'd have been reckon'd a very fine Structure. The chief Beauty of it lies in its Situation; for a great Variety of agreeable Objects are discovered from the Apartments. The Gardens are also so new that one can scarce know the Plan of 'em; it seems to me that they are not of an extraordinary Taste, and that they wou'd be much more suitable for a private Man than for a Sovereign.

The Cardinal _de Schonborn_ is a keen Sportsman. He has Game enough in his own Bishop.r.i.c.k, for the Country so abounds with all sorts that the Fields are ruin'd by the Deer. The Peasants are so hard put to it to preserve their Corn that they are oblig'd to watch it day and night. The Cardinal often makes Hunting-Matches for the Stag and wild Boar, in which they kill hundreds; at such times the Peasants are oblig'd to take a certain quant.i.ty of Meat, for which they pay so much a Pound, according to a Price that is regulated. The Bishop.r.i.c.k of _Spire_ is one of the fruitfullest Provinces in _Germany_, but the Inhabitants are extremely poor; for their Provisions lie on their hands, and they have scarce wherewithal to pay the great Taillies due to their Sovereigns.

The Dignity of the Bishop of _Spire_ is elective, as are all the Bishop.r.i.c.ks of _Germany_ which are not in the hereditary Dominions of the House of _Austria_. The Bishop is Sovereign of the Country, but the City of _Spire_ has particular Privileges, as have all the Imperial Cities. You know it was at _Spire_ that the Emperor _Charles_ V. establish'd the Imperial Chamber, which is as it were the Parliament of the Empire. The _French_ having destroy'd _Spire_ when they ravag'd the _Palatinate_, the Chamber or supreme Tribunal was transferred to _Wetzlar_ in _Wetteravia_, where indeed it seem'd to be more in the Center of _Germany_, and secur'd from all manner of Insult.

_Damien-Hugo_ Count _de Schonborn_ Cardinal, is at this present Bishop of _Spire_, and Co-adjutor of _Constance_. He is also grand Commander of the Teutonic-Order. He was heretofore a Member of the Emperor's Privy-Council, and his Plenipotentiary to the Circle of Lower _Saxony_. _Clement_ XI. of the _Albani_ Family honour'd him with the Purple. He is descended of a Family in which Merit has happen'd to be back'd by Fortune. The Cardinal's Father was the first Count of it. He was also one of the Emperor's Privy-Council, and Brother to _Lotharius-Francis_ Elector of _Mentz_ and Bishop of _Bamberg_. The Cardinal has actually a Brother who is Elector of _Triers_, another who is Bishop of _Wurtzbourg_ and _Bamberg_, whom I have mention'd to you upon other occasions; and lastly, a third who is a Counsellor of State[130] to the Emperor, and is now the Head of the Family. Messieurs _de Schonborn_ had formerly an Elector of _Mentz_ in their Family, who was at the same time Bishop of _Wurtzbourg_, but that Prince left them no great Estate; so that they were not very rich when _Lotharius-Francis_, Uncle to them all, was chose Elector of _Mentz_. But this Prince procur'd them both Wealth and Honours, and render'd the Count _de Schonborn_, who is Counsellor of State to the Emperor, one of the richest n.o.blemen in _Germany_.

From _Brhousel_ to _Heidelberg_ there's one of the finest Countries in the World, planted with Fruit, and especially Walnut-Trees, which bring in a great Revenue.

The City of HEIDELBERG, upon the _Necker_, is very much pent up by that River, and a Chain of Hills, so that 'tis not near so broad as 'tis long.

This City is the Capital of the Lower _Palatinate_, and was formerly the Residence of the Electors. Here is a University which was founded in 1346, by _Robert_ Prince _Palatine_, who was chose King of the _Romans_. No Town has smarted more by the Scourge of War. Since the Disgrace of _Frederic_ Elector _Palatine_, whom the _Bohemians_ chose for their King, it has been taken, plunder'd, or burnt four times. In 1622, the Emperor's General _Tilly_ put 500 _Palatines_ in it to the Sword, and at the same time the Emperor carry'd off the famous Library, which he gave in part to _Urban_ VIII. who caused it to be placed in the _Vatican_, where 'tis still to be seen. In 1634, _Heidelberg_ was besieg'd twice. _John de Werth_ took it for _Lewis_ XIV. but not being able to carry the Castle he retir'd. Not many days after, the Marshals _de Force_ and _Breze_ forc'd the Quarters of the _Germans_, and took both the Town and Castle. The _French_ took this City a third time in 1688, and again in 1693, which was the last time, Sword in hand; at what time they committed Cruelties shocking to remember, and of which there are woful Marks still left in _Heidelberg_, and all the Towns in the _Palatinate_. This City was beginning to recover it self by the Elector's residing there, when it brought a more heavy Disgrace upon it self than all the Misfortunes it had suffer'd by the War.

The Case was thus:

The great Church of _Heidelberg_ since the Peace of _Westphalia_ belongs half to _Roman_ Catholics, and half to the _Calvinists_, of whom the former have the Choir, and the others the Body, and nothing but a thin Part.i.tion separates the two Communions. The Choir not being big enough to contain the Catholics when the Court resided at _Heidelberg_, the Elector propos'd to the _Calvinists_ to yield him the Body of the Church, alledging that not only the Choir was too scanty, but that he shou'd be very glad that the Church in which the _Palatine_ Princes lie interr'd were altogether Catholic. He promis'd at the same time that another Church should be built for them larger and finer than what they were to yield to him. The _Calvinists_ said that the great Church had been granted to them by the Treaty of _Munster_; that all the Princes who were Guarantees of the Peace of _Westphalia_ were engag'd to preserve them in the enjoyment of it; that therefore they could not give it up without violating that Treaty, which was their Security, and without rendring themselves unworthy of the Protection of the Protestant Powers. The Elector, in order to remove those Obstacles, consented that the Powers who were Guarantees of the _Westphalian_ Treaty of Peace, in which the Church he desir'd was expressly mentioned, should be Guarantees of the Church which he promis'd should be built for them: But all these Offers how reasonable soever were not accepted by the _Calvinists_. The Elector being thereby incens'd, made use of his Sovereign Authority, and took by force what they were not willing to yield to him; whereupon the _Calvinists_ had recourse to the Protestant Princes of the Empire, the _Lutherans_ as well as the _Calvinists_, who const.i.tuting but one Body and one Communion when the Catholics are to be oppos'd, united together, and engag'd in their Quarrel the Kings of _Great Britain_, _Denmark_, _Sweden_, and _Prussia_, and the _States-General_. These Powers caused the Catholic Churches in their Dominions to be shut up, sequester'd the Estates of the Convents, and made such Clamors and Menaces that the Elector was oblig'd to reinstate the _Calvinists_ in the Nave of the Church; but he was so angry with the Inhabitants of _Heidelberg_ for their Disrespect to him that he remov'd his Residence to _Manheim_. The Burghers were not very sorry at first for the Departure of the Court; for being accustom'd to its Absence, they flattered themselves that the Tribunals of the Regency, which, since the Accession of the _Newbourg_ Family to the Electorate, had constantly been kept at _Heidelberg_, would remain there still. But they were soon thrown into the utmost Consternation when they saw those Tribunals follow the Elector. They went and cast themselves at the Feet of their angry Sovereign, and asking his Pardon for having affronted him, they offer'd him the Church which was the cause of his Displeasure, and conjur'd him to return to their City. But all their Supplications were fruitless; the Elector was stedfast in his Resolution to punish _Heidelberg_, and abandon'd it for ever. _Heidelberg_ having no Trade, and subsisting only by the Court, or by the Tribunals of the Regency, of which it was totally depriv'd, falls now into decay, and will, no doubt, e'er 'tis long dwindle to little or nothing.

The Elector's Palace is higher than the City, and situate in such a manner that there's a Prospect from the great Apartments quite through the Opening between the Mountains, by which the _Necker_ runs into the Plain.

The Palace is built of Free-Stone, and is a magnificent Structure. The greatest part of it was burnt by the _French_ when they destroy'd the _Palatinate_: The Lodging-Rooms that are subsisting are very substantial, tho' not built in the modern Taste. The Apartments are large, but want Ornament, especially since they have been stript of their Furniture. The Gardens were formerly reckon'd the finest in _Germany_; but there's scarce any thing left of them except the Place where they flourished. If one may judge of what they were by their Situation, they must have been very pleasant, by reason of the extensive Prospect they afforded into the Country.

I do not intend to detain you with an Account of the famous Tun, _Misson_ having given a more exact Description of that than of many Towns which he treats of. You will in his _Travels_ find a Cut of this Vessel, which will give you a more perfect Idea of it than any Narrative whatsoever. The Elector _John-William_, the Predecessor of the present Elector, gave a Companion to this Tun, which is not altogether so large, but much more adorn'd. They are both full of Wine. I remember that in 1719, when I was at the _Palatine_ Court, the Elector ask'd me at Table whether I had seen the Great Tun; and upon my saying that I had not, that Prince, than whom there was not a more gracious Sovereign in the whole World, told me he would carry me to it. He made a Proposal to the Princess his Daughter, who was marry'd to the hereditary Prince of _Sullzbach_, to go thither after Dinner was over; which she accepted. The Trumpets led the way, and the Court followed in great Ceremony. When we had mounted the Platform which is over the Tun, the Elector did me the honour to drink to me out of the _Wilkom_, which was a Silver gilt Cup, of a large dimension. He took it off clean at one Draught, and having caused it to be replenished, sent it to me by a Page. Good Manners, and the Respect I ow'd to the Elector's Commands, not permitting me to refuse the Chalice, I begg'd heartily that he would suffer me to drink it off at several Draughts; which was indulg'd me; and the Elector talking in the mean time with the Ladies, I took the opportunity of his Absence, and made no scruple to deceive him, for I return'd great part of the Wine to the bottom of the Tun, threw a part of it on the ground, and the rest, which was the least part of it, I drank. I thought my self well off that he did not perceive in what manner I bubbled him; for I saw he was very well pleased with me. Then several other great Gla.s.ses went round, and the very Ladies wet their Lips, which was the thing that effectually contributed to demolish us. I was one of the first that was overpower'd. I perceived those convulsive Motions that threaten'd me if I drank any more, therefore I sneak'd off and made the best of my way down from the Platform. I was endeavouring to get out of the Vault, but was stop'd at the Door by two Life-Guard Men, who with their Carabines crossing each other, cry'd, _Stand, there's no coming this way_. I conjur'd them to let me pa.s.s, and told them that I had very important Reasons for my departure; but I might as well have talk'd to the Wind. I found my self in a terrible Quandary: To get up again to the head of the Tun was Death: What would become of me I could not tell. In short I crept under the Tun, and there hoped to hide my self; but it was a fruitless Precaution: There's no avoiding a Man's Destiny. It was my Fate to be carry'd out of the Vault, and to know nothing of the matter. For the Elector perceiv'd I was a Deserter, and I heard him say, _Where is he?

What's become of him? Let him be look'd after, and brought up to me dead or alive_. The Guards at the Door being examin'd said that I came that way in order to get out, but that they sent me back again. All these Inquiries, which I heard from my Hole, made me burrow my self the more. I crept under the Covert of a couple of Boards I met with by chance, where nothing but a Cat, Devil, or Page could possibly find me out. But a little Page, who was indeed both Devil and Page too, ferreted me, and baul'd out like one that was mad, _Here he is! Here he is!_ and then I was taken out of my Covert. You may imagine what a silly Figure I made. I was carry'd before my Judge, who was the Elector himself. But I took the liberty to challenge both him and all the Gentlemen in his Retinue, as being Parties in the Cause. _Alas! my little Gentleman_, said the Prince to me, _You refuse us for your Judges; I will appoint you others then, and we shall see whether you come off any better_. He nominated the Princess his Daughter, and her Ladies to try me, and the Elector was my Accuser. After pleading my own Cause they put it to the Vote, and I was condemn'd unanimously to drink as long as I could swallow. The Elector said, that as he was the Sovereign he would mitigate my Sentence; that I should that day drink four Pint Gla.s.ses of Wine, and that for a Fortnight running I should tip off the like Gla.s.s to his Health immediately after Dinner. Every body admir'd the Elector's Clemency, and whether I did or not, I was fain to do as they did, and to return him Thanks. Then I underwent the heaviest part of my Sentence; I did not lose my Life indeed, but for some Hours I lost both my Speech and my Reason. I was carry'd to a Bed, where when I came to my self I was told that my Accusers were in the same pickle as I was; and that none of them went out of the Vault in the same manner as they enter'd it. Next day the Elector was so good as to mitigate the remaining part of my Sentence, and excus'd me from the Penance to which I was condemn'd, upon my promising him that I wou'd make one at his Table for a Month to come.

_I am_, &c.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER XX.

_SIR_, _Manheim, March 17, 1730._

In going from _Heidelberg_ to MANHEIM we leave the _Necker_ on the right hand, but keep almost all the way by the side of that River. 'Tis three Leagues from one City to the other, over a fruitful Plain. _Manheim_ lies between the _Rhine_ and the _Necker_, in a marshy Country, which has always been reckon'd very unwholesome. About fourscore Years ago this City was but a Village. _Frederic_ Elector _Palatine_, who was chose King of _Bohemia_, caus'd it to be fortify'd, and built a Castle or Citadel there, which he call'd _Fredericsbourg_. At the same time a Town was built, of which all the Streets run parallel, the chief that pa.s.ses thro' the middle of the Town was planted with Trees after the manner of _Holland_. But the _French_ having taken _Manheim_ in 1693, raz'd it to the ground, and by the Treaty of _Nimeguen_ it was stipulated that _Manheim_ should be demolished; which was done accordingly. _John-William_ of _Newbourg_, the last Elector, began again to fortify _Manheim_, according to the Plans laid down by the famous _Cohorn_; but those Works were suspended, so that no more than two Bastions and a Courtain were finish'd. When the present Elector _Charles-Philip_ came to live at _Manheim_ he caus'd those Works to be resumed which his Brother had discontinued, and to be carried on with such Diligence that in a few Years he put the Place in a state of Defence[131]. The Fortifications are all fac'd with Brick; and _Manheim_ is now one of the best Places in all _Germany_.

This City has three fine Gates, of which that of the _Necker_ is the most magnificent, and the best adorned; in which one sees beautiful Ba.s.so-relievos, after a Plan very happily executed. This Gate opens towards a long and s.p.a.cious Street, at the end of which stands the Elector's Palace, one of the largest and most substantial Buildings in _Europe_. It were to be wish'd indeed that the Architecture had been more regular: Never had any Architect more Advantage, for he built it new from the Foundation, was not stinted for want of room, and as he set no Limits to his Expence, I should have thought that a masterly hand might have produc'd something curious. Nevertheless there are Faults in the Building which are shocking to such as have the least Skill in Architecture; insomuch that they who have a Taste for that Science are sorry that a Building which has been so expensive has been no better conducted. The Situation of this Palace is indeed very fine, at the end of the City, and of a very n.o.ble large Street, which like all the rest runs in a strait Line. The Palace, which has a great Square before it, consists of a large number of Lodging-Rooms, with a great high Pavilion in the middle, and two advanc'd Wings, with ample Pavilions at the ends; where two other very extensive Wings rise on both sides that are likewise terminated by Pavilions, behind which there are other Lodging-Rooms. The inside of the Palace is form'd by two great Courts, which are to be separated by an open Gallery or Terra.s.s, the Model of which is very much adorned with Architecture; but I can't think it will look well when 'tis done. The Apartments are adorn'd with fine n.o.ble Floors and Cielings, and have the finest Prospect in the World to _Spire_, _Franckendahl_, _Worms_, and all the Country in general, as far as the Mountains of _Alsace_, which consists wholly of Towns and Villages. All this fine fruitful Country is water'd by the _Rhine_, which pa.s.ses behind the Palace of _Manheim_, and washes its Fortifications. Upon this beautiful Ca.n.a.l there are to be the Gardens of the Palace, for which there are intended two Courtains and a Bastion.

'Tis almost inconceivable how the Elector was able to get all the Works about _Manheim_ finished in so few Years; for in short I remember to have seen Partridges where there are now Houses and Palaces. The whole Town is laid out in a most regular and charming manner; and 'tis without dispute one of the prettiest Towns in _Europe_. 'Tis pity the Houses are not higher: The reason they alledge for it is, that _Manheim_ is a fortify'd Town, and that by consequence the Houses ought to be low. I know not what Authority there is for this, since _Strasbourg_, _Metz_, _Luxembourg_, and _Lisle_, are Places of much more Importance than _Manheim_, and yet the Houses are as high there as they are in other Towns.

The Palace is commodious, and yet, for what reason I know not, the Elector does not live in it[132]. Some say that he has been told of so many Faults in it as have quite put him out of conceit with it, and others that 'tis because a certain Astrologer prophesy'd he would die there; but I am apt to believe that the latter Reason is no more than a Joke, and I dare to say that the Elector is too wise a Man to credit it. Mean time this Prince dwells in a House belonging to a _Jew_, to which several other private Houses are join'd; but for all that the Lodgings are very bad.

There can't be a better-natur'd Man than _Charles-Philip_ of _Newbourg_, Elector _Palatine_. He is the best of Masters, and the most affable of Princes. He is reckoned extremely handsome, and one of the chief Dancers in his time; and he has a n.o.ble Aspect. His Behaviour and Conversation engage one to love him, and to pay one's court to him out of pure Inclination. He formerly was fond of Pomp and Pleasure, but since the loss of his only Daughter and his Son-in-law, who died within a few Years one of another, he seems to be no longer taken with what was heretofore his Amus.e.m.e.nt. The Elector has been twice marry'd, _viz._ first to _Louisa-Charlotte_ Princess of _Radzeville_, and secondly to _Theresa Lubomirski_, both _Polish_ Ladies. The former left him a Daughter that was marry'd to _Joseph-Charles_ Prince _Palatine_ of _Sultzbach_, but died in 1728; as did her Husband the Year following. This Princess had such Beauty and Merit, that she was the Comfort of her Father and the Admiration of her Acquaintance. She left three young Princesses, whom the Elector causes to be educated at his Court, where they are now all that he has to delight him; but then they incessantly renew to him the sorrowful Remembrance of a Daughter who was extremely dear to him.

The Death of that Princess has been a very great Affliction to the Elector, and chang'd the Face of the _Palatine_ Court. Indeed as to Affability, and to the Goodness of his Temper, he is still the same Elector, but he has no longer that Gaiety of Humour which his Daughter's Company rais'd in him; for she had a thousand different Amus.e.m.e.nts for him, and Pleasures and Merriment every where accompany'd her. The Elector eats always in private, except on Holidays, and when there's any foreign Prince at his Court. After he has been in public at Ma.s.s, he commonly stops in one of his Apartments to chat with the Courtiers, or to play at Billiards till Dinner-time. After Dinner he goes to Bed, and lies there two Hours; then he rises, and after having caus'd himself to be dress'd, he gives Audience to his Ministers, and to such private Persons as want to talk with him. He is very attentive to those who speak to him, and answers them with Good-nature and Kindness. He seldom refuses what is in his power to grant; and when Reasons force him to a denial, 'tis visible that he is uneasy, and he refuses in so civil a manner, that People go away at least comforted, if not contented. At six o'clock in the Evening the whole Court meets in his Electoral Highness's Apartment, where there is Play till nine o'clock, and then the Elector retires, makes a very slight Supper, and goes to Bed in good time.

Tho' the Elector dines in private there's always a Table sumptuously serv'd for the hereditary Prince of _Sultzbach_, Brother to him who was the Elector's Son-in-law. This pa.s.ses for the Elector's Table, is spread for eighteen Guests, and is serv'd by Pages.

The Prince _de Sultzbach_ is look'd upon as the Elector's Heir, because 'tis not supposed that the Elector's Brother, the Elector of _Mentz_, would be willing to quit the first Electorate of the Empire, and the great Benefices which he possesses, to become Elector _Palatine_, if he should happen to survive his Brother[133]. The Bishop of _Augsbourg_, the Elector's second Brother, being a Priest, cannot succeed. The Prince _de Sultzbach_'s Father is still living; but being as old as the Elector, he is not like to survive him very long[134]. The Prince _John-Christian_ of _Sultzbach_ was born in 1700. He is the Widower of the Princess _de la Tour_ of _Auvergne_, who brought him for her Portion the Sovereignty of _Bergopzoom_; and left him a Son, who is educated at _Brussels_ with his Great-Grandmother the d.u.c.h.ess Dowager of _Aremberg_. The Prince _John-Christian_ is tall and extremely corpulent, insomuch that 'tis well if he has not the Dropsy. He spent the first Days of his Youth at the Court of _Lorrain_ in _France_, and in the _Netherlands_, by which Travels he acquired a great deal of Politeness. He was lately betrothed to _Eleonora-Philippina_ of _Hesse-Rhinfelds_, Sister to the Princess of _Piedmont_[135], and to the d.u.c.h.ess of _Bourbon_. This Princess is every day expected from _Turin_, to which Place she accompanied her Sister.

Their Highnesses will then go and keep their Court at _Heidelberg_[136].

The Princ.i.p.al n.o.blemen of the _Palatine_ Court are the following:

_Francis-George_ Count of _Manderscheldt-Blanckenheim_[137], the Steward of the Houshold, Prime Minister, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_.

He is of ill.u.s.trious Extraction; is a Man of Integrity and very great Probity, incapable of doing an ill thing, but not at all engaging in his Deportment; for he is reserved, with an Air of Haughtiness, which is a Defect that he was born with, and endeavours to conquer, but cannot. When one knows him intimately he proves a good Friend, and capable of doing one Service. He has very great Pensions from the Elector, and is the oldest of his Family, which being pretty numerous, he does not live in a very grand manner.

The Baron _de Sickingen_ is Great Chamberlain, Minister of State, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. He is a Gentleman of a fine Presence, of an easy and engaging Access, with profound Learning, and Sentiments suitable to his Birth. He was Governor of the late Prince _de Sultzbach_, Son-in-law to the Elector; and he imprinted such Ideas of Men and Things in the Mind of that young Prince, as gave great hopes that his Government would be happy if ever he attain'd to it. M. _de Sickingen_ was afterward the Elector's Envoy Extraordinary to the Imperial Court; and I knew him at _Vienna_ where he was exceedingly beloved. At his return he succeeded his Brother in the Office of Great Chamberlain, which he exercises with the Approbation of the whole Court.

_John-Frederic_ Count _de Globe_, is Grand Marshal, Minister of State, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. He is very rich, and has a fine Estate in _Bohemia_. He was once the Elector's Page, who finding him at the bottom a Man of Integrity and Honour, took care of his Fortune, gave him the best Employments at his Court, and raised him to the Dignity of Count. M. _de Globe_ has been seldom at _Manheim_ for some Years past; which is a Loss both to Court and City, because he liv'd very n.o.bly, and more than all, was very civil to Foreigners[138].

The Baron _de Wohlin_ is Master of the Horse[139]. He is one of those Men in whom we meet with that Candor and Probity so much boasted by our Fathers.

The Count _de la Tour_ and _Taxis_ is Captain of the Life-Guards, Lieutenant-General, and Knight of the Order of St. _Hubert_. His Carriage seems blunt and proud, yet he is familiar with those that are in his Confidence. He has considerable Credit at Court, owing to his Sister's being so long in favour with the Elector.

_Julius Augustus_ Count _de la Marck_, Lieutenant-General, Captain of the hundred _Swissers_, and Knight of St. _Hubert_, is descended of an ill.u.s.trious Family in the Empire. He spent part of his Youth in the Service of _France_, where his eldest Brother is now actually a Lieutenant-General, Colonel of a foreign Regiment, and a Commander of the Order of the _Holy Ghost_. He has learnt all the _French_ Politeness; his Behaviour resembles the Man of Quality; his Temper is gay, and he loves good Cheer, Joy and Pleasures.

The Count _Egmont de Hatzfeldt_ Lieutenant-General, Minister of State, and Secretary at War, comes from one of the best Families in the Empire, This n.o.bleman is extraordinary civil; his House is open to all Persons of Distinction; he lives very n.o.bly, and both his Lady and himself are very fond of entertaining Foreigners. They were both intrusted to conduct to _Piedmont_ the Princess of _Sultzbach_ first Wife to _Charles_ Prince of _Piedmont_[140], and discharged their Employments in such a manner that they had the general Approbation of the _Sardinian_ Court.

The Barons of _Hildesheim_ and _Beveren_ are both Ministers of State. The former acquired a very great Reputation in the Negotiations that were carry'd on at _Heidelberg_ in 1719, for the Church of the _Calvinists_ which the Elector had a mind shou'd be Catholic. The second has been Envoy to the King of _Great Britain_. They are both to be valued for their Merit, live very honourably, and make Foreigners welcome.

I could tell you of many other Persons of Birth and Merit employ'd at this Court, but really my Letter would be too tedious. Nevertheless I cannot omit the mention of the Baron _d'Obsten_, whom you saw at _Breslau_, after he had quitted the Service of the _Czar_. He is settled here, but has no Character. He and all his Family are become of our Communion. He has a considerable Pension from the Elector, and is generally very well esteem'd. His Son, who is a Captain, is a young Gentleman of Merit, and his Daughters are young Ladies highly to be esteem'd for their good Behaviour and Politeness.

The Count _de Na.s.sau-Weilbourg_ lives here also. His Birth would engage me to give you an Account of him tho' I were not induc'd to it by the Consideration of his Merit. This n.o.bleman has an infinite share of it; he is generous, magnificent, genteel, and civil, knowing what Family he is descended from; but knowing it for no other reason than to discharge all the Obligations of it. He is the Ornament of this Court, tho' he is not in the Service of the Elector. His Father was Velt-Marshal, and Commander in Chief of the _Palatine_ Troops during the Reign of the late Elector _John William_. The Count I am speaking of was Envoy Extraordinary from the Elector to the Court of _France_ during the Minority of _Lewis_ XV. He then went often to the Royal Palace to pay his court to the Regent's Mother, and there it was that I knew him; for that Lady and the whole Court of France had a very great Value for him. That Princess speaking of him one day to me, said she was very glad that he was a Count of _Na.s.sau_; for indeed, said she, he deserves to bear a great Name[141].

There are amiable People here of both s.e.xes who are very sociable, so that 'tis a Stranger's own fault if he misses of Amus.e.m.e.nt here; for such are generally treated very civilly. As for my own part, I have received so many Courtesies from the Elector, and so many Favours from his Court that I shall for ever acknowledge them.

The n.o.bility maintain a Company of _French_ Comedians who act three times a Week upon a very little Theatre, but both the Townsmen and Foreigners pay. Tho' this Company, of which the Count _de la Marck_ has the Direction is not the best, yet 'tis a pleasure to go to it for the sake of seeing Company. In the time of the late Princess there were a thousand Pleasures which there are not now, so that her Death is still lamented.

The Elector's Revenues are reckon'd at two Millions of Crowns. You may rate them more or less, 'tis no matter; for my own part, I affirm nothing, being not willing to imitate the Marquis _de Breton-Villiers_, who in his Memoirs of the Regency values the Revenues of all the Princes of the Universe with as much a.s.surance as if he had been Superintendant of every one's Finances. The Elector has about 7 or 8000 Soldiers, exclusive of his Guards. His best Places are _Manheim_, _Juliers_, and _Dusseldorp_. The three Religions tolerated in the Empire have Churches here, and the _Jews_ a large Synagogue. They are very numerous at this Place, and two thirds of the Houses belong to them, as being either built by them, or mortgag'd to 'em. Some of them are very rich, and drive a great Trade with the _Jews_ at _Meiz_, _Frankfort_ and _Amsterdam_. 'Tis certain that they do a great injury to the Christian Merchants, and that they are not honester here than elsewhere.

Don't write to me, if you please, before I have sent you my Direction, because I know not whether I shall stay long enough at _Frankfort_, to which some Affairs call me, to receive your Letters.

Just now we hear of the Death of Pope _Benedict_ XIII. As I never saw a Conclave, and am in the Humour of Travelling, I have an inclination to take a tour to _Rome_. I shall not resolve on it till I come to _Frankfort_. Which way soever I go you shall be inform'd, and I will not fail to desire your Commands. Mean time I am always very sincerely, _&c._

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER XXI.

_SIR_, _Frankfort, March 21, 1730._

At my Departure from _Manheim_ I pa.s.s'd the _Rhine_ over a Bridge of Boats, and in three Hours time arrived at FRANCKENDAHL, which was formerly fortified, but after having suffered by the general Conflagration in the _Palatinate_, was dismantled by the Peace of _Nimeguen_, and so it has remained ever since. It still bears the Marks of _French_ Fury; and a great many Houses that were burn'd have not been rebuilt.

There's the finest Country in the World between _Franckendahl_ and WORMS.

I came hither at ten o'clock in the Morning, and spent the rest of the Forenoon in seeing what was most remarkable. _Worms_ is not the Place now that it was before the _French_ burn'd it. Its most wealthy Inhabitants instead of rebuilding their Houses, retir'd to _Frankfort_ and _Holland_, so that the Chapter of _Worms_, which is wholly compos'd of Persons of Quality, is now the chief Glory of the Town. The Bishop of it is the Elector[142] of _Mentz_, who was chose _July_ 12, 1694. This Prince has built a new Episcopal Palace, the Contrivance of which is beautiful. It joins to the Cathedral which is ancient, and built very substantially. The _Lutherans_ have just built a fine Church, the Roof of which is painted.

In several Compartiments there's the History of _Luther_'s pretended Reformation. That Doctor is there represented as appearing before the Dyet of the Empire which met at _Worms_ _An._ 1521. You know that he was cited to it by the Emperor _Charles_ V. His Friends, to dissuade him from appearing, put him in mind of _John Huss_, who notwithstanding the Safe-Conduct that had been granted him by the Emperor _Sigismond_, was burnt by a Decree of the Council of _Constance_. _Luther_, without being intimidated, said, that _tho' he was sure to be engag'd with as many Devils as there were Tiles upon the Houses of +Worms+, he was resolv'd to go_. He went thither accordingly, and appear'd the 17th of _April_ before the Dyet, where he offer'd, with a Courage deserving a better Cause, to maintain his Doctrine and his Writings against all that should go about to demolish them from the Holy Scriptures.