The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume I Part 11

The Court is numerous, and I can a.s.sure you that upon Festival-Days 'tis very magnificent. On St. _Quilian_'s Day, who is the Patron of _Wurtzbourg_ and _Franconia_, the Bishop repairs with a great Train to the Metropolitan Church. Six of the Bishop's Coaches, drawn each by six Horses, begin the March, attended by twenty four Footmen and sixteen Pages; and above fourscore Gentlemen richly dress'd walk before the Bishop's Coach, guarded by two Files of Halbardiers. The Master of the Horse and the Marshal of the Court walk by the sides of the Coach, the latter bearing the Sword of the Duke of _Franconia_ with the Point uppermost; and the Coach is surrounded by _Heydukes_, and followed by a company of Life-Guards.

The Bishop of _Wurtzbourg_ has one Prerogative which the other Bishops have not; for while he officiates, his Great Marshal bears the Sword of the Duke of _Franconia_ naked and upright till the Consecration of the Elements, and then he puts it up in the Scabbard, and carries it before the Prince with the Point downwards; which is a Distinction I take to be altogether as extraordinary as that of the Abbot and Count _de Gemblours_, the first n.o.bleman of the States of _Brabant_, who has the Privilege of celebrating Ma.s.s with his Boots and Spurs on.

The Bishop's ordinary Expence is perfectly suitable to the Dignity of a great Prince; and his Table, which is commonly spread for eighteen Guests, is serv'd with a Magnificence to the degree of Profusion; not that this Prince affects Pomp, but because he is oblig'd to conform to the antient establish'd Customs of his Court. This Prelate gives very great Application to the Affairs of his Government, for which purpose he rises early in the Morning: When he is dress'd he spends some time in Prayer, and then confers with his Ministers, or with the Chiefs of the several Tribunals. At ten o'clock he hears Ma.s.s, and afterwards goes to Council: At Noon he dines, and after having sate an Hour and an half at Table, he retires, and spends the Evening with his Family, which is numerous, and compos'd of Persons of Worth. In Carnival-time he makes great Entertainments twice or thrice a week for all the n.o.bility of _Wurtzbourg_, and there is sometimes a Ball and even Masquerades at Court.

In the Winter-time Persons of Rank have a.s.semblies for Gaming; and during the Carnival there's a Ball three times a week in a House kept by the Undertaker, at which they bespeak Places beforehand, and where Foreigners are admitted _gratis_. All this wou'd be pretty enough if the Company was not sometimes disturb'd by People in Liquor, tho' 'tis true that such are not very chagrining to the Natives, who are us'd to such Sights; and the very Ladies, who elsewhere fly such Company, do not seem to have a staunch Aversion to them. Foreigners have reason to applaud the Civilities both of the Prince and his Courtiers. As for my own part I am infinitely oblig'd for the Respect they have been pleas'd to shew to me. The Prince heaps his Favours on me, and the n.o.bility their Courtesies. If it were not that one is forc'd to drink hard, I shou'd like the Town very well. Two Days hence I shall set out for _Ans.p.a.ch_, and from thence I shall go by the way of _Nuremberg_ and _Bareith_ to _Prague_. I shall write to you by the very first Opportunity: Mean time I am, _&c._

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER IX.

_SIR_, _Ans.p.a.ch, Sept. 29, 1729._

I came in one day from _Wurtzbourg_ to ANs.p.a.cH, which is twelve Miles, and pa.s.s'd thro' two or three little Towns not worth naming. _Ans.p.a.ch_ is the Capital of the Margraviate so call'd, and the Residence of the Margrave of _Brandenbourg_, Chief of the second Branch of that Family settled in _Franconia_. 'Tis a small but pretty Town, and very well built. It has no Fortifications, and is only shut in by Walls surrounded with Walks which form a Bulwark. The Prince has a large Castle or Palace building here, which when finish'd will be magnificent. The late Margrave, Father of the present, had begun to build it according to the Models of an _Italian_ Architect; but as he did nothing to answer the Opinion conceiv'd by the _Germans_ that the _Italians_ are the best Architects in the World, perhaps because he was oblig'd to patch up old Walls for the sake of some Rooms: Madame the Margravine Regent, Mother of the young Margrave, continued what her Husband began, but changed the Architect, and makes use of the Baron _de Zochau_ to carry on those Works; who, tho' oblig'd to conform to what was done by the _Italian_, has succeeded much better than that Foreigner. Madame the Margravine Regent has likewise caus'd some n.o.ble Gardens to be laid out; and this Princess spares no Cost for embellis.h.i.+ng the Town of _Ans.p.a.ch_.

The Margravine Regent[81] is of the Family of _Wurtenberg_, and may be compar'd for Beauty with the finest Princesses in the World. Being left a Widow at twenty nine Years of Age, she renounc'd all Pleasures, and thought of nothing but the Education of her Son, and the Affairs of her Regency; both of which Duties this Princess discharges in such a manner that her Subjects bless her Government, and the young Margrave cannot but have very great Obligations to her.

Madame the Margravine, besides a charming Person, has a sparkling Wit and a solid Judgment, which she has taken care to cultivate by great reading, and maintains by a Piety and Charity truly Christian. There is in all her Actions such Politeness, and so much Good-nature, as gain her the hearts of all Persons. In fine, without flattering this Princess, I can a.s.sure you that her Life is a Pattern of Virtue. She is wean'd from all the Vanities of the Age; she wears neither Gold nor Lace, and has given her Diamonds, which were of very great value, to her Son. She keeps so retir'd to her Apartment, that she is never seen but at Church, at Table, or when she gives Audience; which she never refuses to any body unless when she is tir'd. She is incessantly employ'd, and takes delight in it. She is her own Minister, and her Counsellors are only the Executioners of her Orders.

'Tis pity that _Germany_ is so soon like to lose a Princess who does her Country so much Honour: The Margravine is in so declining a Condition that there's no hopes of her Recovery. The Physicians have actually told her so; but the Princess, far from being terrify'd at the sad Tidings, receiv'd it like a Christian Heroine: _G.o.d gave me my Life_, said she to her Physicians, _he will take it from me when he pleases, his Will be done_. She continues to live in the way she always did; and the Approach of Death, which she sees advancing to her with slow Pace, gives her no Trouble nor Tremor; but submitting to the Decrees of Providence, she waits with Resignation for that awful Moment which often makes the stoutest Hearts tremble.

The young Margrave is actually at _Paris_, so that I cou'd have given you no manner of Account of this Prince, if I had not had the Honour to see him two Years ago. He was born the 12th of _May_, 1712. He is a handsome, comely, lively Man, has an extraordinary Memory, and if Age matures his Understanding, bids fair to be one day a Prince of a sublime Genius. His Governour was M. _de Bremer_, a Gentleman of _Livonia_; and his Praeceptor M. _Neukirch_[82], celebrated for several Essays in Poetry.

Notwithstanding the Reform which Madame the Margravine made in her Court when she came to the Regency, 'tis still very numerous. The Count _de Castel_ is the first Man at this Court, and has the t.i.tle of Lord Steward.

His Lady commonly attends Madame the Margravine, and does the Offices of Lady of Honour without affecting the t.i.tle. M. _de Bremer_, the Baron _de Seckendorf_, and the Baron _de Zochau_, are Privy Counsellors; and the Baron _de Kinsberg_ is Marshal of the Court. As to the Troops the Margravine Regent only keeps up such a number as is necessary to furnish her Quota to the Empire, and to guard her Person.

The Margraviate of _Ans.p.a.ch_ is very much interspersed with Woods, which makes it a fine Country for Hunting. 'Tis said that it brings in 500000 Crowns every Year to its Sovereign. The Princ.i.p.al Towns are _Ans.p.a.ch_ and _Schwabach_, in which Manufactures are erected that do great Prejudice to the City of _Nuremberg_.

I think I ought not to omit acquainting you with two things which are fondly believ'd by the common People, and which the Landlord of the House where I quarter'd affirm'd to me to be Facts. The one is, that there are no Rats in all the Country of _Ans.p.a.ch_, since one of the Family of the Rat-killing St. _Hubert_ pa.s.s'd that way. The other is of the same Tenor, and admitted for a certain Truth by every Subject in the Dominions of the House of _Brandenbourg_, _viz._ When any one of this Family dies, whether Prince or Princess, a Woman in White always appears just before in the Palace. I know not whether you ever heard any thing concerning this Prophetess of Ill Luck. Be that as it will, the Story which is told of her is this:

_Joachim_ II. Elector of _Brandenbourg_, having a mind to enlarge his Palace at _Berlin_, wanted to buy in several Houses; but an old Woman, the Owner of one of those Houses, resolv'd not to sell it to him upon any Terms. The Elector finding her so obstinate sent her the Purchase-Money and turn'd her out of it; upon which the old Woman swore in a Rage that she wou'd be an eternal Plague to _Joachim_ and his Posterity. They pretend that the good Lady keeps her Word, and that she haunts all the Palaces of the _Brandenbourg_ Family. Yet I never heard any body at _Berlin_ say they had ever seen her there, tho' that is the Place where she ought naturally to have taken up her head Quarters. My Landlord added to these fine Stories that the Margravine would not die yet a while, because the Woman in White had not yet appear'd to any body at Court.

_I am_, &c.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER X.

_SIR_, _Carlsbad, October 10, 1729._

When I took leave of the Court of _Ans.p.a.ch_, I was honour'd with a precious mark of the Margravine's Goodness, _viz._ a weighty Gold Medal; and now I am again upon my Journey. I was not many hours in travelling from _Ans.p.a.ch_ to _Nuremberg_, thro' a Country extremely sandy, but very well cultivated, and interspers'd with considerable Villages which in our Country wou'd be reckon'd Towns.

So much has already been said by others of the City of NUREMBERG, that I have very little to add to it. I a.s.sure you this Town is the most disagreeable Place in _Europe_ to live in. The Patricians are the People of the first Rank there, and lord it like the petty n.o.bles of _Venice_.

The Government here too has very great Resemblance with the _Venetian_, and they have a sort of Doge. In short they are very much like the Frog in the Fable that strove to swell it self to the Size of the Ox. Of these Patricians some are very rich, but they are so rude that no body visits them, and they scarce visit one another. Perhaps you will ask me what I mean by the Term _Patricians_? 'Tis this; they are Gentlemen: There are Patrician Families old enough to dispute Antiquity with any of the n.o.bility whatsoever, and who were formerly admitted into all the Chapters.

But now the case is otherwise; for the n.o.bility not only exclude them out of the Chapters, but dispute their being Gentlemen; pretending that they derogate from the t.i.tle by their Magistratical Offices. Such is, you know, our _Germanic_ Vanity; the things which are honourable in other Countries, are with us diminutive: The Court, the Sword, and the Church, are the only Professions that a Gentleman can follow: If he has not the Talents proper for one or other of these, or if Fortune frown upon him, he had better be out of the World than take any Offices of the Magistracy upon him, or enter into Trade: He had better beg Alms n.o.bly than marry beneath himself.

But I shall not here set up for a Censor of the _Germanic_ Customs. Let us talk of _Nuremberg_. This City has 6 Gates, 12 Conduits, and 118 Wells. Of the Churches St. _Laurence_'s is the biggest: There's a great many Reliques in it, particularly a part of the Manger in which our Saviour was laid, a piece of his Garment, and three Links of the Chains which bound St. _Peter_, St. _Paul_, and St. _John_. As the _Lutherans_ make no great account of those Reliques, they wou'd do well to give them to some poor Catholic Convent, which would thereby soon be enrich'd.

You know that the Government here is altogether Evangelical, _i. e._ _Lutheran_. The Catholics have a small Church in the House of the Teutonic Order: The _Calvinists_ go to the Church in the Territory of _Ans.p.a.ch_; but the _Jews_ are not tolerated because 'tis said they formerly poisoned the Wells. They live in a Place not far from _Nuremberg_, but come to Town every Morning, paying something for their Entrance, have an old Woman set over them, who is commonly both their Guard and their Guide, and are permitted to trade and trick wherever they can till Night, when they are obliged to retire.

In the Church of the Hospital is kept _Charlemain_'s Crown, said to weigh fourteen Pounds, the Sceptre and the Globe, in short all the Ornaments of Empire except _Charlemain_'s Sword said to have been brought from Heaven by an Angel, the same very likely that carry'd the holy Vial and the Oriflamb to _France_. That Sword is kept at _Aix la Chapelle_.

The Trade of _Nuremberg_ is very much fallen off; for besides that the Toys and Knick-knacks which were formerly made in this City are much out of fas.h.i.+on, especially in _Germany_, the Manufactures which the Margraves of _Bareith_ and _Ans.p.a.ch_ have settled in their Dominions do considerable Prejudice to _Nuremberg_.

The Inhabitants of this City may be, (at least I think 'em so) the honestest People in the World, but they are the most horrible Complimenters that I know. I cou'd not set my Foot in a Shop, but the Master, the Mistress, the Children and the Apprentices waited on me into the very Street, than king me for the Honour I had done them. My Landlord too, who saw me go in and out twenty times a day, receiv'd me always with great Ceremony, and ask'd me how I did. And when I went out he pray'd me not to leave his House long in Contempt, without honouring it with my Presence.

_Nuremberg_ is the richest and most potent Imperial City next to _Hambourg_. The Domain of _Nuremberg_ is even much larger than that of _Hambourg_, but the latter bears the Bell for Wealth. 'Tis said that _Nuremberg_ has seven other Towns in its Territory, with 480 Villages and Parishes. Yet for all this 'tis not a rich City; for the Patricians pocket all the Money, and the Citizens are poor.

Next Day after my Arrival at _Nuremberg_ I set out for _Christian_-ERLANGEN, a Town in the Margraviate of _Brandenbourg-Bareith_, which owes its flouris.h.i.+ng State to a Colony of _French_ People who fled out of _France_ on account of their Religion.

Forty Years ago _Erlangen_ was but a little Village in the middle of a Forest of Fir-Trees. The Margrave _Christian_ giving shelter to the _French_ who left their Country after the Revocation of the Edict of _Nantz_, a.s.sign'd them _Erlangen_ to settle in. When they cut down the Woods they built the Town, to which they gave the Name of _Christian-Erlangen_, in Memory of _Christian_ their Benefactor. All the Streets are in a strait Line. The _French_ have set up all sorts of Manufactures here, and have made it one of the prettiest Towns of _Germany_. Madame[83] _Elizabeth-Sophia_ of _Brandenbourg_, second Daughter of the Elector _Frederic-William_, and third Wife of the Margrave _Christian_ Founder of _Erlangen_, caus'd a very handsome Palace to be built in the great Square of this City, to which there are n.o.ble Gardens.

'Tis at present occupy'd by _Sophia_ of _Saxe-Weissenfels_, Widow of the last Margrave of _Bareith_. This Princess was to have dwelt at _Neustadt_, which was settled on her for her Dowry; but as 'tis a lonesome, melancholy, scoundrel Place, the Margrave Regent was willing she should live at _Erlangen_. The Margravine Dowager was one of the most beautiful Princesses in the World, of which she still preserves the fair Remains, and none can have an Air more grand. She lives at _Erlangen_ with all the Dignity becoming her Rank. Foreigners are very well received at her Court, and particularly by the Princess herself, who for Politeness has few Equals.

From _Christian-Erlangen_ I went in less than a Day to _Bamberg_, tho' I stay'd two or three Hours at FORCHEIM a Place in the Bishop.r.i.c.k of _Bamberg_, whose Buildings appear'd to me to be old and out of repair.

The Bishop.r.i.c.k of BAMBERG is the first Bishop.r.i.c.k of the Empire. The Bishop is Suffragan to no Archbishop. He depends only as to Spirituals upon the Holy See, and receives the Pall as an Archbishop. He has moreover this Distinction, that the Electors are his great Officers as they are those of the Empire, and he has the Privilege of summoning them to come and do the Duties of their Offices on the Day of his Installation. I have not heard that any Bishop ever made use of this mighty Prerogative, for the Retinue which those great Officers would bring along with them might be a Charge to him. The great Privileges which this Prelate enjoys are counter-balanc'd by one Mortification; for if the Electors happen to chuse an Emperor who has no Dominions, the Bishop of _Bamberg_ would be oblig'd to yield him his Episcopal City and Palace. 'Tis said that the Emperor has the same Right to _Rome_, and that if he should chuse that ancient City of the World for his Residence, the Pope wou'd be oblig'd to yield him the Palace of the Vatican and to retire to that of St. _John de Lateran_. But I really think that the Holy Father and the Bishop of _Bamberg_ will not be so soon turn'd out.

The late Elector of _Mentz_, _Lotharius-Francis de Schonborn_, who was also Bishop of _Bamberg_, embellish'd the City with a new Episcopal Palace, a great and stately Building that stands on an Eminence, from whence there is an extensive Prospect of various Beauties.

The City of _Bamberg_ is very well built, and has beautiful Churches.

Herein is to be seen the Tomb of the Emperor _Henry_ II. and his Wife the Empress _Cunegonda_. This Princess lies at the right hand of her Husband, because she kept her Virginity to her Death. Was not this abusing the Sacrament of Marriage?

The Bishop who fills the Episcopal See of _Bamberg_ is _Frederic-Charles_, Count de _Schonborn_, Vice-Chancellor of the Empire. This Prelate being Minister of State to the Emperor commonly resides at _Vienna_, and is now there, so that I have nothing to say to you of his Court; but I reckon I shall be able to give you some Account of him after I have paid my Respects to him at _Vienna_.

The Neighbourhood of _Bamberg_ is very agreeable, but as one comes to it from _Nuremberg_ thro' a certain Forest of Fir-Trees, it strikes a Man with Horror to find an Avenue to it a quarter of a League in length form'd by Wheels and Gibbets. This, at first sight gives a Stranger no very great Idea of the Honesty of the People; but he is of another Opinion when he comes to know that these expos'd Malefactors are for the most part Foreigners. The Bishop.r.i.c.k of _Bamberg_ is contiguous to seven or eight different States, and the Town it self lies in the greatest Road of all _Germany_, which is the Reason that 'tis so infested by Rogues from all Quarters. In the time of the Elector of _Mentz_, _Bamberg_ was their _Ne plus ultra_, for that Prince gave them no Quarter: Being an Enemy to Wickedness, and one of the greatest Justiciaries that we have had in _Germany_, he sent all to the Gallows that deserv'd Hanging.

About a League out of the Town the Bishop has a charming Pleasure-House; but there is nothing in all _Germany_ more magnificent than the Castle of POMMERSFELDEN belonging to the Count _de Schonborn_, which is three Leagues from _Bamberg_. _Francis Lotharius de Schonborn_ Elector of _Mentz_ caus'd this stately Fabric to be built, the whole of which forms a great Body of Building flank'd by two Pavilions with two advanc'd Wings.

The whole is regularly built, and decorated with well-fancy'd Architecture. The Entry is supported by several Colonnades, where the first thing that presents it self is the grand Stair-Case, which is extraordinary magnificent, and perhaps one of the best contrived in _Europe_. This Entry leads into a Salon which serves as a Pa.s.sage to the Garden; 'tis in form of a Grotto adorn'd with several Fountains, Columns, and Statues of Marble: The Cieling is painted as well as the Sky-Light of the Stair-Case, and the Arches of the princ.i.p.al Apartments. They are all painted by Hands that the Elector sent for on purpose from _Italy_. I don't give you the Particulars of the great Salon, nor of the Apartments, because it would take up a Volume. The whole are laid out with Art, and furnish'd with great Choice, Judgment and Splendor.

The Stables answer exactly to the Castle which they front. They are built in form of a Half-Moon with a Pavilion in the middle, which is an oval Salon, from both Sides of which you see all the Horses. The Mangers are of Marble in form of Sh.e.l.ls, and the Racks of Iron neatly wrought in form of a Basket or Scuttle.

The Salon in the middle of the two Stables is painted in Fresco, and looks one way to the Court, and the other to the Riding-House, where the Elector us'd to see the Horses manag'd belonging to the Studs of his Bishop.r.i.c.k near _Bamberg_, one of the best in _Germany_.

The Gardens of _Pommersfelden_ are very answerable to the Magnificence of the Buildings: In a word, every Thing belonging to this fine House is worthy of it. The Builder of it had sublime Ideas: He spared no Cost to leave Monuments of his Grandeur and Wealth to Posterity, and has made a House of _Pommersfelden_ which really surpa.s.ses some Royal Palaces. But 'tis time to take you out of this fine Place and to carry you back to _Bamberg_.

There is a good Number of the n.o.bility settled in this Town. The Chapter consists of Persons of Quality: It has the Right of chusing the Bishop; and 'tis he who governs in the Absence of the Prince. Such a Resort as here is of the n.o.bility makes the Time pa.s.s away agreeably; but they drink as hard here as at _Fulde_ and _Wurtzbourg_, so that it looks as if Drinking was an inseparable Function of the Ecclesiastical Courts. Having some Relations in this Town I stay'd there three Days, during which I had the Pleasure of Drinking every Day with one of my Cousins out of a great Goblet of solid Gold which weigh'd to the Value of a thousand Ducats. You can't imagine how well the Wine went down out of a Cup of that Value. I heartily wish'd that my Cousin wou'd have dealt by me as _Joseph_ did by _Benjamin_, and that he had put up his Cup in my Portmanteau, provided he wou'd not have sent to fetch me back again, as the Governour of _Egypt_ did his Brother; but this was what my dear Cousin did not think fit to do.

He made me drink my Skin-full of Wine, and only wish'd me my Pockets full of Gold.

From _Bamberg_ I went to BAREITH the Residence of the Margrave of _Brandenbourg_. The elder of the two Branches of that Family settled in _Franconia_. _John George_ Elector of _Brandenbourg_ divided his Dominions between his three Sons: He left the Electorate with its Appendages to his eldest Son, and gave the Margraviate of _Culmbach_ to _Christian_ his second Son, and that of _Ans.p.a.ch_ to his third Son. _Christian_ form'd two Branches, that of _Bareith_ and that of _Culmbach_. The Branch of _Bareith_ became extinct in 1726, by the Death of _George-William_, whose Widow lives at _Erlangen_. _George-Frederic-Charles_ Margrave of _Culmbach_ his Cousin, succeeded him. This Prince has five Children, _viz._ two Princes[84] and three Princesses[85]. He marry'd _Dorothy_ of _Holstein-Beck_ at _Berlin_ in 1709. I had then the Honour to see him: He was a Prince of a n.o.ble Aspect, very civil, good-natur'd, and temperate, and a Lover of Books and Men of Learning. He did an Act of Generosity that perhaps is not to be parallel'd, and which I relate to you as the most authentic Testimony that can be of his Good-nature and Integrity.

His Predecessor had left an empty Exchequer and a great many Debts; and the Margrave at his Accession to the Regency was oblig'd to pay the King of _Prussia_ 460000 Florins, upon condition that his Majesty wou'd renounce any Pretensions he might have to the Margraviate, by virtue of the Resignation of all Rights to the Succession which had been made by the Margrave of _Culmbach_ his Father, in favour of _Frederic_ I. King of _Prussia_. To raise this Sum on People already overburden'd by the common Taxes, was to seek their Ruin. The Margrave in pity of their miserable Condition, chose rather to borrow this Money of the States of the Circle of _Franconia_ at great Interest. When he found himself in peaceable possession of his Dominions by the Payment made to the King of _Prussia_, he undertook to pay off not only his own, but the Debts of his Predecessor. To enable himself to do this, he began by turning off his Court, kept but a small Number of Counsellors and Gentlemen, and disbanded 3000 Men of the Troops which the late Margrave kept in pay to no purpose.

He reduc'd his Table to the greatest Frugality; his Clothes were plain, and he avoided Magnificence and Gaming. Some time after this, he made another Reform in his House, and kept up but a very small Number of Domestics. He establish'd a Council of Regency, and to save the Expence which his Rank as a Sovereign would have engag'd him in whether he wou'd or not, he left his Dominions, and went to live incognito with the Hereditary Prince his Son at _Geneva_. I believe that both of them are actually at _Montpellier_[86]. He is resolv'd not to return to his Dominions till all his Debts are paid off. Mean time his Subjects wish for his Return with Impatience, for he has such a Kindness for them, and governs them with such mildness that they look on him as their Father and Benefactor. This Retirement of the Margrave from the Splendors of Sovereignty is the more to be commended because 'tis absolutely voluntary: He was not at all oblig'd to pay the Debts of his Predecessor; for they were of such a Nature as not to be rank'd among the Debts of the Government. Nevertheless it was his Pleasure to do it, and he chose rather to abridge himself of the Charms of Sovereignty than that People, whose Faith in the Government had made them part with their Money, shou'd lose their Debts. Such a glorious Action as this, is in my Judgment equal to the Laurels of twenty Victories: This was owing to his Virtue, whereas Victory is generally the Consequent of Chance and Fortune.