The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume I Part 1

The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz.

Volume I.

by Karl Ludwig von Pollnitz.

PREFACE

_There are very few Books without a +Preface+; and that there are so, is in a great measure owing to the Fancy of the +Booksellers+, who think them to be absolutely necessary, and too often judge of the merit of a Copy by the Flights of its Preface, and the insinuating Tone of the +Author's+ Voice in reading it. I had the misfortune to fall into the hands of one of these Booksellers, so fond of Prefaces, whom nothing would serve but he must have one at the Head of my +Memoirs+. My telling him that I did not know what to put into a Preface, signify'd no more than if I had been talking to a Post; for he threaten'd to get a Preface compos'd by an Author who wrote for Wages. This startled me, and I trembled for the fate of my Book, not doubting that a Preface written by a Man of Letters, who made it his profession to compose such marvellous Pieces, would altogether eclipse the few Excellencies in this Work of mine. What, said I to myself, the Sale of my Book then must depend only on the Goodness of the Preface, which, when the Readers compare with the Book it self, they will say, O! what a wonderful Man is the Author of the +Preface+! What a pitiful Writer, the Compiler of the +Memoirs+! No, said I again to my self, I am resolv'd that the Preface and the Book shall run the same risk; and since Chance has enter'd me an Author, I'll play out the whole part of one._

_I am told, that the Design of a Preface is to give the Publick an account, in the first place, of the Reasons that have engag'd the Author to compose his Work; that then he is to inform the Publick, that 'tis in meer Complaisance to his Friends, and because there are mangled Copies of his Ma.n.u.script abroad, that he has been determined to put it to the Press; and finally, that he is to conclude with a sort of Pet.i.tion, wherein he is to beg the Reader's Indulgence for his Productions. This, I have been a.s.sured, is the Plan of a Preface; let us now see how well I can execute it._

_As to the first Article, +viz.+ what Motives I had to write, I sincerely own that when I set Pen to Paper, I meant nothing more than to amuse myself. I was the farthest in the World from thinking that I should one day be overtaken with the Temptation of setting up for an Author. I wrote Letters to a Friend of mine, purely to divert him with an Account of such things as came in my way; the Minutes of which Letters I preserved till I had insensibly formed a Volume of 'em; and having nothing else to do, I augmented and digested them in the manner that I now give them to the Publick. The truth is, that my Friends have not used the least Importunity with me to commit my Ma.n.u.script to the Press, nor was it possible for any spurious Copies of it to get abroad, because no body ever saw it till I put it into the hands of the Bookseller._

_But I shall be ask'd, what possess'd me to commence Author, and how came I to be so idle as to put my Name at the Head of a sorry book? I must answer again, that it was downright Indolence. As to my Name, it would have been very difficult to have concealed it from Persons to whom I have the greatest Obligations. I should have been suspected to have been the Author of these Memoirs at certain Courts, for which I have a Respect both by Inclination and Duty; and perhaps, if I had left this Copy to the wide World, as some do those Foundlings which they are asham'd to own, such Pa.s.sages might have been foisted into it, as would have been father'd upon me, in spite of all Protestations of my Innocence._

_As to the Book itself, I am apt to think there is nothing in it that any Person whatsoever ought to take offence at. When I speak of Sovereign Princes, 'tis with the Reverence due to the +Lord's Anointed+; and I also endeavour to honour them in their Ministers, being taught by my Religion that I ought to honour G.o.d in his Saints. I have done my utmost to paint the true Characters of People in Place, and can safely say, that my Authorities are not meer hear-says or sc.r.a.ps out of News-Papers; for, thank to G.o.d, my Birth and Fortune have put me in a capacity to see, hear, and judge for myself._

_It will be thought perhaps, that when I speak of Nations in general, I judge too rashly. It may be so; this being an Article especially in which all Men do not think alike. The +French+ have a quite different Idea of the +Germans+ from what the +English+ have, and the +English+ do not pa.s.s the same Verdict on the +French+ as the +Swedes+ do. 'Tis the same in private Life. Every one makes his own Condition the Standard of his Judgment. The Man of Quality, the Citizen, the Soldier, the Merchant, have all different Ideas. The Traveller judges of the Nation where he is, by the Company he keeps. A +Frenchman+ who in +Germany+ converses with none but those of the second Cla.s.s, will say that the +Germans+ are honest People, but clownish; whereas another, who keeps company with Persons of Quality, or those in Offices, will agree, that the +Germans+ are more polite than they have been painted by certain +French+ Writers, who have been transplanted to +Germany+ either by their Distresses, or by meer Chance. So, a +German+, who, when he is at +Paris+, sees no better Company than the Marchionesses of the Suburb of +St. Germain+, imagines that all the Women both at Court and in the City are like them. In fine, a Foreigner who takes up his Residence in the City of +London+, will entertain a different Idea of the +English+ from what another shall do who lodges at +St. James+'s end of the town. They are, as one may say, so many different Nations in one and the same State, which stand in little relation to one another; and sometimes attribute Virtues and Vices to each other without due Consideration. A Foreigner therefore can form a solid Judgment of none but those with whom he is conversant; and if he has the good luck to pitch his Tent well, he entertains an advantageous Opinion of the Nation in general. Let Foreigners, when they return home, after having kept such various sorts of Company, sit down to draw the Characters of the Nations they have seen, I do but think what a strange difference would appear in their Descriptions! The Judgment therefore which I make of People, is founded upon the Company I kept, and upon what I heard from such Inhabitants of the Country as appear'd to me to be altogether unprejudiced, and were pleased to honour me with their Information. I do not say but, after all, I may have been mistaken; for I do not pretend to have painted things in any other light than as they appear'd to me. If, nevertheless, any particular Person thinks himself particularly intended when I speak of the Inhabitants of any Province or Town in general, I beg him to remember, that I confess in my Memoirs there are worthy People in all parts of the World, and 'tis not my fault if his Conscience does not permit him to rank himself in that number._

_No doubt I shall be reproach'd for relating too many Trifles, and pa.s.sing too lightly over things of greater Importance. To speak freely again, I will make no difficulty to own, that, if when I began these Memoirs, I had ever thought of printing them, the desire of promoting their Sale might perhaps have put upon inserting a great many Nothings which I omitted, as not thinking it worth while to charge my Memory with 'em. The far greatest part of what the World reads is Trifles, and a History will make its fortune not by the instructive Facts that are in it, but by the Romantic Turn the Author gives it. Besides, I am not so vain as to write with a design of Instructing; for what could I relate in my Travels which others have not done before me in better Terms? To talk of Learned Men, to make a Catalogue of Books and MSS. that are to be met with in Libraries, to ransack the Cabinet of the Curious, to publish Inscriptions, to treat of antique Medals, to affirm that I have seen an +Otho+ of Bra.s.s, which is known to be but of Silver, what a Posse of Men of Learning would rise up against me! Whereas, now I fear nothing; the Learned don't read Trifles, or if they do, they scorn to criticise them. I shall to them remain unknown, or at least, my Meanness will be my Protection against their Indignation._

_I would fain be as secure against the Criticism of those, who reading for the sake of their amus.e.m.e.nt, require an exact, elegant Stile in trifles, that is, adorn'd with the Flowers and Garlands of Rhetorick. But how shall I gain their Indulgence? If I own to them that I could do no better, they will say to me, and justly enough, +Alas! then what made you write?+ To which I shall answer, as I said before, that it was meerly for want of something else to do. If they will but forgive me this time, I a.s.sure them that I not only will never relapse into the same error, but that I shall not be sorry if they disdain to take Notice of my Book: And if the reading of these Memoirs inclines them to sleep, I shall think my self very well rewarded for having contributed to their Repose._

_After all, I am more particularly obliged to ask pardon of the +French+ than any other Nation: 'Tis in their Language I have presumed to write, and they are my proper Judges. Such is their Politeness and their Readiness to a.s.sist Foreigners, that I doubt not of Mercy. And in return, I promise them, that if a +Frenchman+ ever vouchsafes to write in the +German+ Language, I will forgive him any Errors that he may commit._

MEMOIRS

OF THE

Baron de POLLNITZ.

In SEVERAL LETTERS to Mr. _L. C. D. S._

LETTER I.

_SIR_, _Berlin, June 6, 1729._

From _Breslaw_ to _Berlin_ 'tis 40 _German_ Miles of very even Country, well peopled and cultivated. There are I know not how many little Towns in the Road, not worth mentioning.

The first Place of any Importance is CROSSEN. This City is the Capital of the Dutchy from whence it has its Name, which formerly made a Part of _Silesia_, but is now annex'd to the Electorate of _Brandenburgh_. There's a Bridge at _Crossen_, by which we pa.s.s the River _Oder_, defended by Fortifications. The Town is situate in a pleasant fruitful Country. The Houses, which are all of Brick, are uniform, and the Streets as strait as a Line. The chief of them terminate in a great Square in the middle of the Town, where there is a Statue of the King of _Prussia_. The River _Oder_ is of great advantage to the Commerce of _Crossen_, which carries on a considerable Trade in Linnen-Cloth and Earthen Ware.

Going out of _Crossen_, we pa.s.s this River by a Bridge, as we do a second time over to FRANCFORT, a considerable City of the Marquisate of _Brandenbourg_, famous for its Fairs, and its University. This City has stood the Shock of various Revolutions. It was put under the Ban of the Empire by the Emperor _Charles_ IV. for having disobey'd his Orders; and the Inhabitants to make him easy were forc'd to pay him down 12000 Marks of Silver, which at that time was an immense Sum. In 1631 the _Swedes_ besieg'd and took it by Storm, when they put all the Inhabitants to the Sword in reprisal for the Ma.s.sacre of 2000 _Swedes_, whom the Emperor's General Count _Tilly_ had inhumanly put to death in the City of _Brandenbourg_. By the Peace of _Munster_, or _Westphalia_, which establish'd the Tranquility of the Empire, _Francfort_ was restor'd to the Elector of _Brandenbourg_ its lawful Sovereign.

Here is a University founded by _Joachim_ I. (Margrave of _Brandenbourg_) in 1506, which is very much frequented by the _Silesians_, and by the _Hungarian_ Protestants.

There are two Fairs a Year at _Francfort_, which render it a trading City, and its Commerce consists in Linnen-Cloth, and Fells.

'Tis ten Miles from _Francfort_ to _Berlin_, and a flat sandy Country. The Road leads thro' _Munchenbourg_, a little Town chiefly inhabited by the Descendants of _French_ Men, who left their Country upon the Revocation of the Edict of _Nantes_.

The nearer one comes to the Capital of _Brandenbourg_, the more sandy is the Soil, yet the Country produces plenty of Corn and Fruits.

BERLIN is the common Residence of the King of _Prussia_, and one of the largest, best built, and best govern'd Cities in all _Germany_. The Streets are s.p.a.cious, strait, neat and well pav'd. The Situation is advantageous; for tho' it lies in a very sandy Soil, yet it is encompa.s.s'd with agreeable Gardens producing Fruits and excellent Pulse, and its Commerce is much improv'd by the River _Spree_; which pa.s.ses thro' the City, and has a Communication with the _Havel_, the _Oder_, and the _Elbe_.

The _French_, who for the sake of Religion became Refugees, have contributed in an extraordinary manner to the Establishment and Aggrandis.e.m.e.nt of _Berlin_, by the establis.h.i.+ng of all sorts of Manufactures, and the introducing of Arts into it; and it may be said of them, that they have omitted nothing to testify their Grat.i.tude to the Elector _Frederic-William_ and his Posterity, for the generous Reception which he gave them in his Dominions.

_Berlin_ is divided into five Wards exclusive of the Suburbs, which are very extensive. I will run thro' these Wards in the Order of their Situation: But before I do this, I propose to shew you what is most remarkable in the Suburbs; where the Houses are generally of Timber, but so well plaister'd that they seem to be of Stone; and the Streets are broad, lightsome and strait.

In the Suburb of _Spandau_ the Queen has a delightful House and Gardens.

The House is called _Monbijou_; a very proper Name for it, because 'tis really a Jewel. 'Tis a Pavilion, the Apartments of which are laid out with Art, and furnish'd with great Judgment and Elegance. The Gardens are charming, and lie finely open to the River. This House was built by the Countess _de Wartemberg_, Wife to the Prime Minister of King _Frederic_ I.

As her Husband's Power and Favour were at that time so great, that he did whatever he pleas'd, all the King's Workmen and Architects us'd the utmost Diligence to serve her well. But she did not enjoy this fine House long; for it was scarce compleated when the King removed the Count from all his Employments, and banish'd him to _Francfort_ on the _Maine_.

However, he settled a Pension upon him and his Lady of 24000 Crowns, and the Countess by way of Acknowledgement gave the King this House, which of all the immense Treasure that she had ama.s.s'd, was the only Piece that she cou'd not carry with her. The King gave this House to the Princess Royal now Queen, who has added great Embellishments to it, and brought it to its present State of Perfection.

In the Suburbs of _Stralau_ is the House and Gardens of _Belvedere_, belonging to the King. _Rolle_ Superintendant of the Finances to the Elector _Frederic-William_, caus'd this Garden to be made, in which he laid out considerable Sums; and as this Minister was at other very great Expences, it so impair'd his Fortune, that he was oblig'd to throw up all and retir'd to _Holland_; and being very much in debt to the Elector, his Garden was forfeited to that Prince, who made a Present of it to M. _de Fuchs_, one of his Ministers. King _Frederic_ I. purchas'd it of the latter, and after having embellished it, made a Present of it to the Queen his third Wife; but that Princess's ill state of Health obliging her to retire to _Mecklenbourg_ her Native Country, _Belvedere_ became neglected.

Near this Royal House is the magnificent Gardens of _Craut_, who from a Boy behind the Counter rais'd himself by his Industry to the Post of Pay-master General of the Army, and at length to that of Minister of State. He was to have been call'd to account in his last stage of Life, but he cunningly diverted that Storm by feigning himself Lunatic; and dying, he left an immense Estate, part of which fell to the King by way of Rest.i.tution, and the rest to his Nephew, who makes a grand Figure at _Paris_.

I enter'd _Berlin_ thro' that call'd the Gate _Royale_, which has had that Name ever since the Day that _Frederic_ I. made his Entry there, after his Coronation at _Koningsberg_ in _Prussia_. This Gate is defended by a Half-Moon, and two Bastions fac'd with Brick, and fronts that call'd the Street _Royale_; one of the longest and most frequented in all the City.

There are very fine Houses in it, particularly that of M. _de Catsch_, a Minister of State, that of _Grumkau_, and the Post-House, which last Building was begun by order of the late King, for his Favourite the Count _de Wartemberg_, who was hereditary Post-Master.

Thro' the Street _Royale_ there run fine, s.p.a.cious and beautiful Streets.

The first is call'd _la Rue du Cloitre_, in which we see the Royal Manufactory. _Frederic_ I. who bought it of the Heirs of the Marshal _de Flemming_, established an Academy of n.o.bles there; so that, on the Payment of three hundred Crowns, they had Lodging, Provision, and Instruction in every thing that it's natural a Man of Quality shou'd know. This Establishment existed a few Years, but sunk at last meerly thro' the Neglect of Persons whose Business 'twas to take care of it. The present King has chang'd this Fabrick into a Work-house, and allowed Lodgings in it for several Woollen Manufacturers.

Adjoining to the Royal Manufactory, there are public Warehouses, which were established and built by the late King; and being destroyed by Fire, the present King caus'd them to be rebuilt. Opposite to the Warehouses stands the House of M. _de Creutz_, Minister of State; which has fine Apartments, and is very neatly furnish'd. Higher in the same Street there's the House of M. _Duvaine_, a _French_ Man by Birth, and Lieutenant-General of his _Prussian_ Majesty's Forces: And contiguous to his House, which makes a fine Appearance, is the _Calvinists_ new Church, a Structure rais'd after the Model of _Grunberg_, an Architect who had before acquir'd a Reputation, which did not suffer by his Contrivance of this great Fabrick: The Front of it is magnificent, but the inside plain, as are all the Churches of the _Calvinists_, which you know don't admit of Images. The subterranean Places or Catacombs, for interring those that wors.h.i.+p here, are worth seeing. Several Persons have been interr'd there of great Note, particularly _Casimir de Colbe_, Count _de Wartemberg_, Prime Minister, Great Chamberlain, Master of the Horse, Post-Master-General, Protector of all the Academies in the Dominions of the King of _Prussia_, and Knight of the Order of the Black Eagle. Being banish'd in 1711, to _Francfort_ upon the _Maine_, where he died the Year following, he ordered that his Corpse shou'd be carry'd to _Berlin_; and his Will was accordingly fulfill'd. He was so dear to King _Frederic_ I.

that he was very loth to part with him; but was, as it were, compell'd to it by a Cabal, who oppos'd his Ministerial Authority; tho' he was provok'd at the Insolence of _Wartemberg_'s Wife, and at his mean Submission to her. The King made an Offer to him afterwards, by the Count _Christophle de Dohna_, (who was then his Amba.s.sador at _Francfort_, for the Election of the Emperor,) to come and resume his Employments, on condition that he wou'd not bring his Wife with him; but _Wartemberg_ refus'd, saying, he was engag'd in honour not to forsake her. Perhaps he was very glad of this Excuse for not returning, because he had once experienc'd the Vicissitude of Fortune, and knew well that he had been too powerful a Man not to be hated. King _Frederic_ I. who was desirous to see his Funeral pa.s.s by, cou'd not refrain Tears; which undoubtedly was the greatest Character that he cou'd give of his Minister.

Next to the Count _de Wartemberg_'s Tomb, is that of _Henrietta de Pollnitz_, Wife to _Francis_ Count _de Duhamel_, the _Venetians_ Generalissimo. Her Husband dying in the _Morea_, this Lady return'd to _Venice_, proposing to go and end her Days at _Berlin_, where she was born; but while she was performing her Quarantain she died, after desiring her Body to be carry'd to _Berlin_; which was accordingly done by two of her Nephews, and one of her Nieces, whom she made her Heirs. There is also the Tomb of the Count _de Denhoff_, Lieutenant-General of the King's Armies, Knight of his Order of the Black Eagle, Minister of State, Governour of _Memel_, and Amba.s.sador at the Treaty of _Utrecht_, where he acquired a high Reputation among the foreign Ministers. The Marshal _de Villars_, who had known him at _Vienna_, when he the Marshal resided there in the quality of Minister, to take care of the Affairs of _France_, said to me one day, speaking of the Count _de Denhoff_, that the King of _Prussia_ cou'd not do enough to reward the Count's great Merit. _If he wou'd have been rul'd by me_, added he, _he wou'd have been in the Service of the King my Master_.

The second Street that crosses the Street _Royale_, is the _Jews_ Street, which runs into the Square _Molcke-Marck_; where the Hotel _de Schwerin_ makes a fine Appearance. Within a few Houses lower down, there's a Manufactory of Gold and Silver Lace, which one _Schindler_ has established with good success: This House belong'd to the Wife of M. _de Wensen_, Marshal of the Court to King _Frederic_ I. but she resign'd it as part of Payment of a Fine, to which her Husband had been condemn'd by the Count _de Wartemberg_, then prime Minister; who confin'd M. _Wensen_ in _Custrin_ Castle, because he had presum'd to represent to the King that the Table of the prime Minister, which was served by his Majesty's Cooks and Butlers, was more expensive than his Majesty's own Table. _Wensen_ however, upon the Payment of this Fine, obtain'd his Liberty, and was banish'd to his Lands in the Dutchy of _Zell_.

In the middle of _Molcke-Marck_ is the Statue of _Frederic_ I. Father to the present King, with a Crown on his Head, and a royal Mantle on his Shoulders. The Statue was cast by order of _Frederic_ I. himself, who intended to have it plac'd in the Court of the a.r.s.enal; but dying before it cou'd be brought about, the King his Son caus'd it to be set up where it now stands, which is indeed a much better Place for it.

The _Spandau_ Street, which is the third that crosses the Street _Royale_, contains the Town-House, and other fine Buildings: The Street _St. Esprit_ is altogether as beautiful, as is the Kay, which fronts the Castle or Palace of the King. Upon this Kay we see the House of the Baron _de Vernesobre_, whose Ancestors being _French_ Protestant Merchants, settled at _Koningsberg_ in _Prussia_. He was in _France_ at the time of the _Mississippy_ Plague, which, tho' so fatal to others, prov'd so fortunate to him, that he gain'd several Millions of Livres, with which he came and set up at _Berlin_, where he has taken to building, having purchas'd the Estate of _Hohensihn_ from Monsieur _de Borstel_, one of the best Gentlemen of the Country, procur'd himself the t.i.tle of Counsellor of State, and cuts a Figure now among Persons of Quality.

The Churches of St. _Mary_, St. _Nicholas_, and that belonging to the Garrison, are as magnificent as any of the Protestant Churches. St.

_Mary_'s has a beautiful Spire. When _Frederic_ I. made his royal Entry here, at his return from his Coronation, a Man ascended to the Globe of this Spire, and saluted the new King by flouris.h.i.+ng a pair of Colours.

The Church of the Garrison was founded by the late King, but was very much damag'd some Years ago by the blowing up of a Magazine of Gun-Powder in the Neighbourhood, just as they were removing it to a safer Place. King _Frederic William_ has caus'd it to be rebuilt with more Magnificence than before. The Organs are very fine, and the Galleries very well contriv'd.