See America First Part 28

While standing at Terrapin Point you are overwhelmed by the spirit of the scene around you, which seems more grand and awesome as the dusk of evening begins to throw a dark veil over the landscape; the sense of hearing is made more receptive by the lessening of the vision and you realize the awful sublimity of Niagara. The islands, like dark phantoms, loom in the dim shadows. Then in the east the moon rises mellowing and softening the beautiful scene, while all about you is the eternal roar of the waters. The vast spectral terribleness is quickly transformed into a scene of indescribable loveliness.

The name "Niagara" was given to the falls by the Iroquois Indians and means "The thunder of waters." How significant the name, for with its hundred million tons of water every hour pouring over the rocks, it sounds like the solemn roar of the sea. Ever the varied voices about you tuned to the sighing of the night and gently murmuring pine mingle and blend with the sound of the falls.

How often will memory recall those glacier-sculptured walls! How often you shall see in fancy as you once did in reality, the wonderful opulence of colors! How often, too, you shall behold those glorious curtains that seem to have fallen from the sky and hang poised before you!

How many untold centuries have its thunders reverberated among the rocks! How long have those restless waters flowed on in frenzied madness without a moment's pause! Yet will Niagara remain the same? The rate of recession is very uncertain. There can be no doubt that within the last two hundred years the aspect of the Falls has been greatly altered. Goat Island extended, up to a comparatively recent period, for another half mile northerly in a triangular prolongation; some parts have receded much over one hundred feet since 1841, others have remained more or less stationary. In June, 1850, Table Rock disappeared. Geologists tell us that the recession of the Canadian Falls by erosion is five feet in one year. Even judging it to be one foot in a year, the falls at the commencement of the Christian era were near Prospect Point; three thousand years ago it was at the upper steel arch bridge. Niagara shall in due time pa.s.s away. The eroding power that has made Niagara will perhaps be its undoing.

Nations shall rise into being and write a record of their glorious supremacy, then pa.s.s away, forgotten perhaps save by a record of their deeds or history of their decline. Nature plans not for one season, but for all time. The years as they came to the painted Iroquois will come with never-ending delight to generations yet to be. Our faith in Nature's grandeur and beauty becomes stronger as each succeeding year slips away; the kingfisher shall still watch from his perch on some pine bough the finny inhabitants below him; the chimney swifts will still fly through the spray of the falls for their bath; the flowers, if not on Goat Island, will be just as fair as those that blossomed long ago in their pristine loveliness; the stars when day is done will gleam in the velvet sky as brightly as those of far Judea. But what about Niagara? It may pa.s.s away, but not a drop of its waters will be lost. The same powers that carved Niagara are still at work creating new and more wondrous beauty as the seasons pa.s.s.

One is here reminded that our sojourn is not much more a than the wild water lapping against the rocks or the waves that beat against the rocky ledges and are gone. Yet will they never reappear? Even while we linger here the spray forms cloud fleets to float across the azure sky of June; drifting like white- sailed s.h.i.+ps far out to sea. The resurrection of Niagara Waters!

MY HOME

"This is the place which I love the best, A little brown house, like a ground-bird's nest, Hid among gra.s.ses and vines and trees, Summer retreat of the birds and bees.

The tenderest light that ever was seen Sifts through the vine-made window screen-- Sifts and quivers and flits and falls, On home-made carpets and gray-hung walls.

All through June the west wind free The breath of the clover brings to me.

All through the languid July day I catch the scent of the newmown hay.

The morning-glories and scarlet vine, Over the doorway twist and twine And every day, when the house is still, The humming-bird comes to the window-sill.

In the cunningest chamber under the sun I sink to sleep when the day is done; And am waked at morn in my snow-white bed, By a singing-bird on the roof o'erhead.

Better than treasures brought from Rome, Are the living pictures I see at home-- My aged father, with frosted hair, And mother's face, like a painting rare.

Far from the city's dust and heat, I get but sounds and odors sweet.

Who can wonder I love to stay Week after week here, hidden away, In this sly nook that I love the best The little brown house like a ground-bird's nest.

--Ella Wheeler Wilc.o.x.

THE END.

ITINERARY

We have included this itinerary so that others who are contemplating a trip over the Old National Road to the East may in some measure find it helpful in planning a journey.

Without undue haste we have gone over the route herein designated, and have a world of delightful recollections of those forever memorable excursions.

FIRST DAY--Richmond, Ind., via Greenville, O., through the fine agricultural region of Darke County, pa.s.sing through Xenia, which deserves more than pa.s.sing notice, for, on the outskirts of the town William Dean Howells lived in a log cabin with his father, Wm. D. Gallagher and Coates Kinney, two poets of note, lived here; and here, too, is the birthplace of Whitelaw Reid.

If the traveler wishes to spend a day in Dayton he will find a visit to the National Cash Register plant full of interest.

SECOND DAY--Dayton to Hillsborough, via Germantown and Farmersville, across the great conservancy dam on Twin creek, through Middletown and Lebanon, crossing the Miami valley, famed for its richness of natural beauty and thrifty towns and cities.

THIRD DAY--Hillsborough to Portsmouth, Ohio, via the caves and Bainbridge.

FOURTH DAY--Portsmouth to Columbus, over the Scioto trail, pa.s.sing through the beautiful hill country via Waverly, Chillicothe and Circleville.

FIFTH DAY--Columbus to Wheeling, via Zanesville and Cambridge.

At Zanesville we crossed the bridge over the Muskingum river.

There are only one or two other examples of this type of bridge in the world; one being in Germany. Stopped at the Windsor hotel, which is recommended not only for its surrounding scenery, but is of special interest to the tourist because of its location on the banks of the Ohio river. A breakfast on the terrace overlooking this beautiful river will be a never-to-be- forgotten experience. We pa.s.sed McCullough's Leap on the national road at the crest of Fulton Hill, at Wheeling. A monument marks the spot where the famous Indian fighter escaped his pursuers by going over a precipice one hundred and fifty feet in height.

SIXTH DAY--From Wheeling to c.u.mberland, Md., pa.s.sing Was.h.i.+ngton, Pa., which was the first city in the United States to be named for its first president. Here is still standing the house of Thomas Braddock, leader of the Whiskey Rebellion. At this place the first community building in the United States was erected.

You will pa.s.s Braddock's grave, where a fine monument marks the spot along the old national highway. It leads through the great meadows of history, near where Ft. Necessity was built and which marks the site of the first and only surrender Was.h.i.+ngton ever made. Two centuries ago an Indian trail led through the Allegheny mountains. Here may still be seen the place where Was.h.i.+ngton crossed the road and tried to make his way to Pittsburg, then called Ft. Duquesne. The mountain scenery here is superb. Travelers will find a delightful place to rest in the Ft. c.u.mberland Hotel.

SEVENTH DAY--c.u.mberland via Hagerstown across Ma.s.sanutten mountain to Luray Caverns, staying overnight at the Lawrence Hotel.

EIGHTH DAY--Luray Caverns via Harpers Ferry to Frederick, Md.

Spent the night at the delightful Wayside Inn.

NINTH DAY--Frederick to Was.h.i.+ngton, D. C.

TENTH, ELEVENTH, TWELFTH DAYS--Was.h.i.+ngton and vicinity.

THIRTEENTH DAY--Was.h.i.+ngton to Wt. Vernon, and Alexandria. The Metropolitan hotel while in Was.h.i.+ngton will be found a most pleasant stopping place.

FOURTEENTH DAY--Was.h.i.+ngton to Gettysburg via Baltimore. While here pay a visit to Ft. McHenry, Poe's tomb, and Druid Hill Park, which is one of the most beautiful of America's fine parks.

FIFTEENTH DAY--Gettysburg to Lancaster via Harrisburg. Travelers should not miss the wonderful drive along the Susquehanna river at Harrisburg, for few in the east are as beautiful. It might be well at this juncture to sound a note of warning in regard to the use of chains while crossing the mountains, as one cannot be too careful in using every safeguard.

SIXTEENTH DAY--Lancaster to Valley Forge to Philadelphia.

SEVENTEENTH DAY--Philadelphia. Visit historical places and lovely park.

EIGHTEENTH Day--Cross ferry over the Delaware at Philadelphia, through New Jersey to Atlantic City.

NINETEENTH DAY--Atlantic City.

TWENTIETH DAY--Atlantic City to Belmar.

TWENTY-FIRST DAY--Belmar via Asbury Park, Newark and Metuchen to New York City.

TWENTY-SECOND, TWENTY-THIRD, TWENTY-FOURTH AND TWENTY-FIFTH DAYS- - New York City. Travelers will find a fine place to stop while here in the Hotel Theresa.

TWENTY-SIXTH DAY--New York City via Tarrytown to Poughkeepsie.

TWENTY-SEVENTH DAY--Poughkeepsie to Greenfield, Ma.s.s., through the Berks.h.i.+re hills on the Mohawk trail.

TWENTY-EIGHTH DAY--Greenfield to Providence, Rhode Island, down the Connecticut river valley, which affords scenery as fine as any which New England has to offer. The fertile farm lands of the valley give beauty by way of contrast. The traveler will be interested in the fields of tobacco which are grown under canvas. Some of these fields contain thirty acres and others we were told were still larger.

A most delightful close to a perfect day is the hotel Weldon at this lovely town. The motorist will find here a quiet, restful charm that makes for the tired traveler a delightful halt and a tranquil stopping place for more permanent guests.

"One rarely finds in a rural town a hotel which affords all the essentials of a city hotel of the first cla.s.s. The picturesque entrance with greenery and Italian stone settles, the handsome office and lounging hall of library effect, the broad pa.s.sages and solid woodwork of each floor, the s.p.a.cious gla.s.s-roofed sun parlor and outer porch, with plentiful vines and other verdure, and which in summer time are opened widely to the lawn, the lofty topmost floor recently built (for warm weather guests) of a semi- Spanish effect by way of broad screen doors on open air corridors, from airy suites overlooking the woody hill country-- these items are likely to impress the guests with pleasant surprises."