Woodward's Country Homes Part 9

Either outside or inside lining may be used, or both together. Where diagonal lining is used, it should be reversed or run the other way on the opposite side of the house.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 120.--_Diagonal Ribs for Vertical or Battened Siding._]

The lining of a Balloon Frame adds immensely to its strength, particularly so if put on diagonally; it may be done outside or inside, though on the whole the inside is preferable. If done outside, it should be carried over the sill and nailed to it; the sill being wider than the studding, in order to get a larger bearing on the masonry, and the floor joists being in the way, does not admit of inside lining being put on in the same manner.

A first-cla.s.s Balloon Frame should be lined, if for vertical siding, outside the studding--if horizontal siding is used, line inside; it makes the frame stiffer and the building warmer. Some line diagonally, say from centre next the first floor towards extreme upper corners both ways; others line one side diagonally in one direction, and the other in an opposite direction. This makes a.s.surance of strength doubly sure. If lined inside, nail perpendicular lath to the lining 16 inches from centres, and on this lath horizontally for plastering.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 121.--_Showing lengthwise and crosswise manner of tying frame._]

The principle of Balloon Framing is the true one for strength, as well as for economy. If a mechanic is employed, the Balloon Frame can be put up for _forty per cent. less money_ than the mortice and tenon frame. If you erect a balloon frame yourself, which you can easily do without the aid of a mechanic, it costs the price of the materials and whatever value you put upon your own time.

Fig. 23 shows the manner of attaching the flooring to gable end studding, and in those buildings in which the thrust of the rafters is in the direction of the flooring--if every third stud be bolted to the joist in the manner shown, it makes the tie equal if not superior to that in the direction of the joists.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 122.--_Manner of Framing Large Barns._]

Fig. 122 explains the manner of framing the largest cla.s.s of barns. Wide openings, like bays, require the use of heavy timber, and the mortice, tenon and brace, only so far as the gallows frame is concerned; the balance of the frame is of light stuff, studding 2 feet to 2-1/2 feet apart, 2 by 6 inches, every third one 2 by 8 inches, into which is gained the side girt, it being nailed to the others. On this rests one end of the temporary floors, the gallows frame supports the roof, and the rafters are secured to it, so that they become ties. The side of this building is like a floor turned on edge, and is firmly secured by the floor joists at the bottom and the rafters at the top.

Warehouses, depots, and other buildings of a very large size, can be made stronger by using the Balloon Frame, instead of the heavy timber frame. Those who prefer to err on the right side, can get unnecessary strength by using deeper studding, placing them closer together, putting in one or more rows of bridging and as many diagonal ribs as they like.

In large buildings there is no saving in timber, only the subst.i.tution of small sizes for large--the great saving is in the labor, which is quite important.

The following are some of the advantages claimed for the Balloon Frame:

1. The princ.i.p.al labor of framing is dispensed with.

2. It is a far cheaper frame to raise.

3. It is stronger and more durable than any other frame.

4. Any stick can be removed, and another put in its place, without disturbing the strength of those remaining--in fact, the whole building can be renewed stick by stick.

5. It is adapted to every style of building, and better adapted for all irregular forms.

6. It is forty per cent. cheaper than any other known style of frame.

7. It embraces strength, security, comfort and economy, and can be put up without the aid of a mechanic.