Tyrol and its People Part 19

The Cathedral, dating from the fifteenth century, is a handsome and even striking building, with its lofty twin towers, and their beautifully "weathered" copper domes. These are the oldest parts, most of the building itself having been restored and rebuilt as recently as the middle half of the eighteenth century. There are some extremely beautiful and interesting cloisters, with numerous frescoes on the groined roof, and some quaint mural tablets and tombstones. The view from the cloisters upon a sunny day across the courtyard is one of great charm in its play of light and shade, tempting one to linger in their h.o.a.ry coolness and solitude. There is also an ancient chapel of St. John, dating from the eleventh century, containing some good frescoes of the thirteenth to fifteenth centuries. The tombstone of the famous Oswald von Wolkenstein is in the inner courtyard, which lies between the Cathedral and the Church of St. Michel, depicting the knightly minnesinger in armour with lance, and pennon, and lyre. Near this is also an interesting copper relief, depicting the scene of the Resurrection, placed there as a memorial of a noted local coppersmith named Hans Kessler, who lived in the first half of the seventeenth century.

One reaches the Bishop's Palace by several interesting streets, in which some of the more ancient houses are to be found. There is a charming courtyard with colonnades, and a delightful garden, peaceful and full of flowers and the sentiment of other days. And here, fortunately, the traveller can gain admission for half an hour's restful contemplation of its beauty, and perhaps the study of some of the historical events which the town has witnessed.

From Brixen to Sterzing one traverses the widening, narrowing, and again widening valley of the Eisack. Past Spinges, with its memories of the fierce battle in 1797, when General Joubert was marching through the Puster Thal to make a junction with Napoleon. His advance was not, however, permitted unchecked. The inhabitants of Spinges might not be many, but they were Tyrolese. It happened, too, that a few companies of the Landsturm were in the neighbourhood, and so these and the men of Spinges marched out to meet Joubert's immensely superior force. The French troops were armed with bayonets as well as guns, and the barrier they made was found unpierceable by the brave but badly armed patriots. But the opportunity or need produced the man as it had done rather more than four centuries before in Switzerland when Arnold von Winkelried gathered the Austrian spears into his bosom at Sempach. In this case it was one Anton Reinisch, of Volders, who "played the man," and heroically leapt, scythe in hand, amongst the French bayonets, a score of which pierced his body, and thus, hewing right and left ere he fell, carved a way for his comrades, and enabled them to break up the French lines.

[Sidenote: THE MAID OF SPINGES]

But Spinges will be celebrated still more in romance, as it has been in history, by the act of that anonymous maiden "the Maid of Spinges,"

who, during the fight around the church of the village, mounted in company with the men the wall of the churchyard, and, armed with a hay fork, helped, by her strong arms as well as her example, to successfully repel three fierce attacks of the French soldiery.

Unknown[18] by name, yet the fame of her courageous act, typical as it was of those of many others of her s.e.x during the long and fierce struggle waged by the Tyrolese against the invaders of their beloved land, has descended through generations.

On the other side of the valley to Spinges is Franzenfeste at the mouth of the defile known as the Brixener Klause. Few people stop at Franzenfeste, we imagine. To ramble on the hillsides would be an act of foolhardiness, for they are honeycombed with forts. It is a great strategic position, commanding the Brenner and the entrance to the Puster Thal; and investigation of the hillsides and neighbourhood, it is needless to say, is not encouraged by the Austrian Government. It is possible in the future that the spot which saw much fighting in 1797 and 1809 will again be the scene of military operations, and a struggle not less fierce, and far more b.l.o.o.d.y. Who knows?

[Sidenote: STERZING AND MATREI]

Sterzing, with its sunny main street of which a most charming vista is got as one enters the town through the ancient gateway on the Brenner road, and shady arcades which remind one of the "unter den Lauben" of Meran, stands on the site of a Roman settlement, Vipitenum. It is situated at the junction of three beautiful valleys, the Ridnaun Thal, Pflersch Thal, Pfitscher Thal, in a broad basin-like depression, encircled by shapely mountain slopes, and on the right bank of the Eisack. Though nowadays possessing a population of less than 3000, Sterzing at once strikes one as having an air of importance and prosperity, hardly in keeping with its small size. Formerly, however, the town was an important mining centre, and the larger of its quaint and picturesque balconied and bay-windowed houses owe their origin to the wealthier inhabitants of the past. Marble quarrying and polis.h.i.+ng is still carried on somewhat extensively, and doubtless helps to retain an air of commercial life and industry in the quaint old place.

Sterzing is wonderfully decorative and compact in general effect; and there are a surprising number of fine and interesting buildings to be seen in its narrow old-time streets. The Rathaus, with its striking bow windows, is of late Gothic architecture, and in it is a fine fifteenth-century altar-piece, and some interesting and well-executed wood carvings. This building, now used by the town officials and magistrates, was formerly doubtless a mansion of a wealthy merchant.

In it is one of the best preserved specimens of a Gothic ceiling, dating from about the middle of the fifteenth century, that we have seen in Tyrol in any private house of similar size.

The church has been extensively, but on the whole well restored. It dates from the sixteenth century, and has a Gothic choir of note, and nave and aisles restored in the Rococo style, the ceiling paintings of which are by Adam Molckh. The general effect of the interior is good, and the church has some interesting architectural details.

The decline of Sterzing is attributable to the same cause as that of many other townlets and villages upon the old post-roads, and the roads over the pa.s.ses which have gradually become less and less used as railroads have multiplied. But, in the case of Sterzing, its gradual descent from the position of importance it once occupied, traces of which are found in the numerous fine houses still standing, was undoubtedly more owing to the exhaustion or abandonment of the mining industry than to the coming of the railway which so seriously affected the road traffic of the Brenner Pa.s.s.

Near Sterzing, it should be remembered, Hofer and his peasant forces fought the first big engagement of the struggle in 1809, which ended in the defeat of the Bavarians, who were driven back across the Brenner, Hofer having crossed the Jaufen from his home at St. Martin in the Pa.s.seier Valley.

Matrei, or, as it is also called, Deutsch-Matrei, is the only place of any size or importance which we have not already described on the line between Sterzing and Innsbruck, or along the Brenner road. The little town is charmingly situated, and like others of similar character and alt.i.tude (it lies nearly 3300 feet above sea-level), is becoming more and more resorted to by tourists and travellers upon the Brenner route. The Castle of Trautson, belonging to Prince Auersperg, stands on the hillside above it. Sterzing forms a fine centre for ascents and excursions, and there is a most interesting pilgrimage church on the north-eastern flank of the Waldrast Spitze dedicated to the Virgin, and known by the name of the mountain; it dates from the middle of the fifteenth century. Its foundation was in consequence of a peasant's dream, in which he was directed to go to the woods, lie down and rest, and there he should be told what to do. When he had done this the Virgin appeared to him, and bade him build a chapel on the spot over an image of her which had miraculously appeared no one knew how some years before. To this chapel was given the name of Maria Waldrast (Wood's rest), and although the monastery, which was built on the spot more than a century and a half later, in 1624, is now but a ruin, the pilgrimage is even nowadays made by the devout to the church which is so beautifully situated more than 5300 feet above sea-level.

FOOTNOTES:

[16] For further details of the castle's history, see Prokop's interesting account.--C. H.

[17] Some authorities state Pleier was from Salzburg or the Salzkammergut.

[18] A Some authorities a.s.sert that her name was Katherina Lanz, and that from about 1820 till her death in 1854 she lived as housekeeper to the priest at St. Virglius near Rost, high up in the Enneberg Valley.--C. H.

CHAPTER IX

SOME TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF WALSCH-TYROL: TRENT, ITS HISTORY, COUNCIL, AND BUILDINGS--ROVEREDO AND DANTE--ARCO--RIVA

Trent, which is easily reached from Bozen through the Etschland by the Bozen-Verona line, which winds through some delightful scenery and pa.s.ses many a ruined castle perched high on inaccessible heights, is not only a large town of upwards of 25,000 inhabitants, but was anciently one of the wealthiest in Tyrol. It is generally supposed to have been founded by the Etruscans, and both Pliny and Ptolemy make mention of it; but whoever designed Trent seized upon a beautiful situation, and the builders have left behind them in the quaint town, broad streets, handsome palaces of dead and gone n.o.bles, and a forest of towers and spires, delightful survivals of mediaeval days.

Surrounded by limestone crags, the city itself, notwithstanding its Italian character and fine atmosphere, gives one at first sight an impression of lack of colour which is not usually the case with Italian towns.

Regarding the foundation of the city and the origin of its name, there is at least a local tradition that it was founded in the time of Tarquinius Priscus, about B.C. 616, by a body of Etruscans led by Rhaetius; and these founders, although so far removed from the sea, inst.i.tuted the wors.h.i.+p of Neptune, from which circ.u.mstance the ancient name Tridentum was derived. Be this as it may, the circ.u.mstance is interesting, as in these Etruscans under the leaders.h.i.+p of Rhaetius one can perhaps discover the origin of the Rhaeti, who ultimately gave so much trouble to the Empire of Rome. At any rate, Rhaetius gave his name to the district in the immediate vicinity of Trent. The interesting Castle Del Buon Consiglio, which forms so dominating a feature of the town, and possesses a circular and lofty donjon of the type of Guy's Tower at Warwick, with its fine Renaissance loggia in the inner or fountain courtyard and several storied arcades in the older, was once the residence of the Prince Bishops, but now used as barracks. In it is preserved an ancient inscription relating to the government of the town, which proves that the regulations and statutes were very largely modelled upon those of Rome itself.

Those who can do so should certainly endeavour to visit Trent during the latter part of the month of June, not merely from the fact that this month is charming by reason of the beauties of nature, the wealth of tender new foliage and delightful climate, but also because on the 26th of the month falls the Festival of Saint Vigilius, the patron saint of Trent, and the martyr missionary who anciently did much to Christianize the country. At this _fete_ the ancient city, whose by-ways and narrower streets are full of interest, picturesqueness, and charm, is seen at its gayest and best. All the many churches are crowded with wors.h.i.+ppers, thousands of whom have flocked down from the surrounding mountains and come in from the various villages of the Etschland, bound first upon religious observances in honour of their patron saint and afterwards to take part in the characteristic games and amus.e.m.e.nts which give the city for the time being such a festive and Bank Holiday air. In former days the more violent amus.e.m.e.nts were often supplemented by the performance of religious dramas, somewhat on the lines of the better known and more elaborate plays of Ober-Ammergau and the Brixenthal, and also by the illumination of the surrounding hills by huge bonfires, which are said to have had their origin in the religious observances of even more remote times than that of the Etruscan occupation.

Saint Vigilius, who was born at Rome, eventually became the Bishop of Trent, and ultimately suffered martyrdom during one of the many persecutions which took place, and were similar in character to those of the fourth century.

The city during its early wars was several times sacked, and more than once burnt by the Bavarian hordes which overran the country and even at last reached the gates of Rome itself. Thus Trent came to be built at various periods upon former foundations, and researches of recent times have tended to show that, as was the case with Rome itself, the comparatively modern Trent is built upon soil several feet above the level of its first site. One Italian authority, indeed, states that the streets of the original town lie some fourteen feet below the level of those of the present. Traces of at least three distinct lines of walls marking the growth of the city at various times have been excavated, leading also to the discovery of many interesting relics of Roman days, including tessellated pavements, portions of an amphitheatre of considerable size, ornaments, household utensils, etc.

The bishops still retain their t.i.tle of Prince, but they lost their power as territorial rulers at the time of the secularization which took place throughout Tyrol, and also in the princ.i.p.ality of Salzburg.

[Sidenote: THE COUNCIL OF TRENT]

Although this ancient city, which is characterized nowadays by a cleanliness and order so often found wanting in Italian towns, has undergone many vicissitudes and has been the scene of important historical events, to the Trent folk of to-day and to many of the visitors who come to it the chief events in connection with its history will undoubtedly remain the sittings of the famous Council which commenced in the year 1545. Many may wonder how it came about that so comparatively small a town should have been chosen as the meeting-place of a Conference intended to attempt the co-ordination of the beliefs and doctrines and the regulation of ecclesiastical affairs of the whole of the then Christian world. Probably the sole reason for this selection was the geographical position of the city, which lay then, as it does to-day, a frontier town, so to speak, between Italian and German influences, and though situated on Austrian soil, yet containing an Italian-speaking population.

The Council opened on December 13, 1545, and continued its sittings (with interruptions) until December 4, 1563, the last being the twenty-fifth in number. The meetings of the Council took place at various times during the reigns of three Popes, Paul III., Julius III., and Pius IV., and amongst the enactments of the Council the Canon of Scripture, including the Apocrypha, was confirmed, and the Church named as its sole interpreter; that traditions were to be considered as equal with Scripture, and the seven sacraments of Baptism, Confirmation, the Lord's Supper, Penitence, extra-Unction, Orders, and Matrimony were also confirmed; transubstantiation, Purgatory indulgences, celibacy of the clergy, auricular confession, and other matters were dealt with.

The first sitting was held under Cardinal Del Monte, the papal legate, who rose amidst the a.s.sembled prelates and representatives and asked them whether it was their wish, "For the glory of G.o.d, the extirpation of heresy, and the reformation of the clergy and people, and the downfall of the enemy of the Christian name, to resolve and declare that the Sacred General Tridentine Council should begin and was begun?" The whole company, we are told, answered "Placet," a Te Deum was sung, and it was agreed that the first sitting of the Council should be held on the 7th of January. The sittings were continued at various times without any untoward event till the year 1552, when Maurice of Saxony invaded Tyrol, and although the Council was sitting, most of its members fled the country after having re-enacted the various decrees and ordinances which had been previously pa.s.sed.

Ten years later, what was to all intents and purposes another Council met at Trent, and a solemn service was again held, at which Cardinal Gonzaga was elected president. A quarrel seems to have arisen between some of the archbishops and bishops and one of the French envoys. The former did not agree to some of the terms of the proposition made by the Archbishop of Reggio, whilst the latter raised an objection to the Council being considered a continuation of the first Council.

The building in which the Council sat has been stated at various times to have been the Cathedral, in the Piazza del Duomo, but there seems very little doubt now that the place of meeting was not there but in the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, situated on the Piazza of the same name. In it on the north wall of the Choir hangs a large picture representing some three hundred of the various chief dignitaries as they sat in the Council Chamber. The members numbered nearly a thousand in all, and in addition to the cardinals, archbishops, bishops, abbots, chiefs of religious orders, and representatives from the University, there were also present amba.s.sadors from the Emperor of Germany, and from the Kings of France, Spain, and Portugal, from the republic of Venice and Genoa, from Switzerland, and from the German electors.

There were at first serious disputes regarding the mode of conducting the business of the Council: what subjects were to be brought up for discussion, and which of those so brought up should have precedence.

The German prelates and representatives appear to have been favourable to the discussion of subjects of a more practical nature, realizing as they did that one of the chief causes of disruption and want of unanimity in the Church was the presence of practical and easily located abuses. They therefore strongly urged that the first work of the Council should be of the nature of reforms affecting these abuses. On the other hand, the Italian prelates and envoys were most favourable to the discussion of matters of doctrine and ecclesiastical observances. These differences of opinion were, however, ultimately overcome by an agreement that for each session of the Council dealing with dogma there should be one held to consider the question of practical reforms.

The first president, Cardinal Del Monte, frankly acknowledged that many abuses had crept into the Church, and to prove the sincerity of his reforming proposals voluntarily yielded up his pluralities of office; and this example was followed by the Prince Bishop of Trent, who offered to resign the See of Brixen.

In 1547, owing to an epidemic then raging in Trent, the first session was closed, and the next sitting took place at Bologna. Charles V., who had been a very active promoter of the Council, objected to the change of venue and insisted upon it being adjourned. It again sat in 1551 at Trent, and an interesting feature of the sitting was the presence of Protestant delegates and envoys from Maurice, elector of Saxony, and from the elector of Brandenburg. Queen Elizabeth declined to send any representative, preferring to accept the decisions of an English convocation. After transacting a considerable amount of business the Council was adjourned, and did not again meet for a period of eleven years. On that occasion many points came up for discussion, and a considerable number of measures of practical reform were agreed upon. One of the most important was the suppression of the alms gatherers, men who were sent for the purpose from Rome to different countries with power to sell indulgences. It was by this means that a large amount of the money with which St. Peter's, Rome, was built was obtained.

[Sidenote: DECREES OF THE COUNCIL]

Amongst other important matters decreed by the Council was that prohibiting the sale, printing, or keeping of any books whatever on sacred matters under pain of anathema and fine imposed by a canon of the last Council of Lateran, unless first approved of by the ordinary. It also provided that offenders should have their books burnt; should pay a fine amounting to a hundred ducats; should be suspended a year from the exercises of their trades; and goes on to add that they should be visited with a sentence of excommunication; and, finally, should their contumacy become worse, be so chastised by their bishop by every means granted by the law that others might take warning from them and not be tempted to follow their example. It was also decreed that even those who lent forbidden books, which included the writings of arch-heretics, such as Luther, Calvin, and others, even though in MS., should be liable to the same penalties; and all those who should have any such books in their possession, unless confessing the author's name, should themselves be regarded as the author.

Cardinal Lorraine, who attended with fourteen bishops, three abbots, and eighty learned doctors of divinity on behalf of King Charles IX.

of France, was charged with instructions from that monarch to entreat the Council to concede the following reforms and benefits: that in France the sacraments might be administered, the psalms sung, prayers offered up, and the catechism taught in the language of the people; and that the sacrament should be fully administered to the laity. Also that some strenuous means should be taken to check the licentious lives of the clergy; and that the Council should make any concessions tending towards peace and the abatement of schism which did not controvert or interfere with G.o.d's word. The French amba.s.sadors also asked for clear instructions concerning the doctrines governing the uses of images, relics, and indulgences; and also they were instructed to urge argument against exacting fees for the sacrament, benefices without duties, and many other things which the more liberal minded and progressive of the prelates regarded as grave abuses in the Church. One astonis.h.i.+ng objection which Renaud Ferrier, the then President of the Parliament in Paris, in company with Lansac, raised before the Council was to the dogma that the Pope's authority was supreme, their contention being that the Council was above the Pope!

As we have said, this important Council on religion came to an end in December, 1563, when the President moved its dissolution. Before the closing scene, the acts of the Council were finally agreed to and signed, "the amba.s.sadors also adding their names." Then the President dismissed the members in the following words: "After having given this to G.o.d, most reverend fathers, go ye in peace." To which all present replied, "Amen." Then Cardinal Lorraine rose and called down the blessing of the a.s.sembly upon the then reigning Pope, Pius IV., and also upon his predecessors, Paul III. and Julius III. "By whose authority," said the Cardinal, "this sacred Council was begun; to them peace from the Lord and eternal glory and happiness in the light of the Holy Saints." To which those present answered, "By their memory ever held in sacred benediction."

Then there were prayers for the reigning monarchs whose amba.s.sadors were present, for the holy oec.u.menical synod of Trent, whose faith and decrees all present declared they would keep for ever. Then came the final scene, when the Cardinal, standing in the midst of the vast a.s.sembly, declared in a loud voice, "Anathema! anathema! to all heretics!" To which there came the reply, "Anathema!" And thus ended not only the Council of Trent, but also the last great general Council of the Roman Catholic Church.

[Sidenote: THE CHURCHES OF TRENT]

The church of Santa Maria Maggiore, in which the Council held its sittings--a rather plain red marble building, which, however, has a fine Lombardian campanile--will always be one of the most interesting churches amongst the many of Trent. Severe outside, the interior is exceptionally ornate. The organ-loft, completed in 1534, twenty years after the commencement of the church, is one of great beauty.

Designed by Vincenzo Vicentin, it has a white marble bal.u.s.trading, the supports of which are thickly encrusted with decorative work and statuettes of delicately fine workmans.h.i.+p. In the church are also several interesting and good pictures, amongst the number one ascribed, though possibly incorrectly, to Tintoretto.

There are one or two interesting traditional stories connected with this church. The first relates to the beautiful organ, and runs as follows: "So fine a tone and so esteemed was the work of the now--so far as we have been able to ascertain--unknown organ builder, that the Town Council are said to have determined to blind or maim him so that it should be impossible for him to construct another instrument like it for any other city. The unfortunate man, unable to get the Councillors to give up their diabolical intention, asked as a last favour to be allowed to play on the instrument he had made ere the barbarous sentence was carried out. But as soon as he was in the organ-loft he set to work and irreparably injured the vox humana stop which he had invented, and which had been the greatest attraction of the beautiful instrument; and thus he punished the Council who had determined to reward his genius in such a terrible manner."

The other legend is of the crucifix, still to be seen in one of the side chapels of the Cathedral, which on the occasion of the final Te Deum, when the Council was disbanded on December 4, 1563, was seen to bow down in token of approval of the const.i.tutions and enactments which had just been signed.

Of the fifteen or sixteen churches of Trent, the Cathedral, which was commenced in the eleventh century and finished in the fifteenth, in the form of a Romanesque basilica with a lantern above the joining of the cross, is the most important. It is built of the same reddish brown marble as the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, which stone abounds in the immediate neighbourhood. There are some remnants of seventh or eighth century carvings, notably the Lombard ornaments of the three porches, which are of great interest. The interior of the church, which is dedicated to Saint Vigilius, contains many frescoes and some good pictures and other objects, including a Madonna by Perugino, a copy of the Madonna Di San Luca in the Pantheon, which was presented to a Bishop of Trent whilst on a visit to Rome in the middle of the fifteenth century, and has ever since been an object of great veneration to the townsfolk and peasantry of the district round about.